Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was gonna go bendix but was politely guided in the direction of QFM a1rm's. There cheap to.

hahaha good man......i ran lucas pads last track day and i had brake fade on me on the last hotlap that i was on for the day.....they did alright for that day but not using them for this track day as i have heard of too much good things about the a1rm so giving them a go.....cant wait now for the track day as car is almost ready to rock and roll

  • Replies 846
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

you have 3 weeks including this week......i would also suggest that you get yourself a set of braided brake lines

something like these..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HEL-braided-brake-l...=item3caa69913d

bought them for my car and they bolt up no probs

i was going to get the set from just jap but found this set for way cheaper $399 compared to $165.....quality is good i like it.....and no stuffing around involved......i repalced my lines, pads and new brake fluid all up for

- $165 for lines

- $238 for pads

- $40 for 2 bottles of penrite sin 600 brake fluid

- $50 for a carton of beer

and all done within couple of hours....and the pedal feel is amazing

im gonna end up runnin outta cash to rebuild my 32 brakes (need pistons and seal kits $400 alone on trade price let alone new lines, rotors and pads aswell) the car currently has ca brakes on it, i lost my licence 5months ago so im not missing this track day, i dont care if i gotta take it easy.

If i take 2 sets of new brake pads out there u think that will be enough? i kno the ca stoppers wont be the best but its better than not driving at all, like i said id rather take it easy than not drive haha.

Who's ripping you off with that price?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-300ZX-Brake-...=item1c10696de3

Or are you saying that you have to replace the pistons themselves?

i was going to get the set from just jap but found this set for way cheaper $399 compared to $165.....quality is good i like it.....and no stuffing around involved......i repalced my lines, pads and new brake fluid all up for

- $165 for lines

- $238 for pads

- $40 for 2 bottles of penrite sin 600 brake fluid

- $50 for a carton of beer

and all done within couple of hours....and the pedal feel is amazing

add to that a master cylinder stopper and you have a wicked brake set up for street and light track work

thats what i am going to be getting next just done have the time or $$ right now to do it specially when i am going to fiji next week

ps anyone know off where i can get a master cylinder stopper for a R33 GTST S1???

just paid for my front brake pads from gsr...

went to look at the car today and woop its all done, tune tomorrow and im set..

oh does anyone have the gasket that gotes between the stock rb25 s2 BOV?

cheers

Got my pads today :blush: got A1RM's for the rear and i'm trying the comp 9's for the front. I should get braided lines and stuff but i dont think it will make to much difference, I really need to up size brakes.

Edited by DSTROY
just paid for my front brake pads from gsr...

went to look at the car today and woop its all done, tune tomorrow and im set..

oh does anyone have the gasket that gotes between the stock rb25 s2 BOV?

cheers

Booking the RDO off tomorrow. Can't wait for ext gate!

you have 3 weeks including this week......i would also suggest that you get yourself a set of braided brake lines

something like these..... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HEL-braided-brake-l...=item3caa69913d

bought them for my car and they bolt up no probs

thats bullshit cheap. shall have to look into them.

Krishy, how long did it take to recieve these lines from uk? And are they defently stainless stell or tin wrapped?

UK!? The Braided Lines Krishy linked, come from Queensland, i ordered a Set on 17-03-2010...sent payment, haven't been posted yet :blush:. My guess is they are making them up, so should be posted sometime next week.

As far as Brake Seals go, i am looking at these or getting off my ass and ringing Nissan.

just paid for my front brake pads from gsr...

went to look at the car today and woop its all done, tune tomorrow and im set..

oh does anyone have the gasket that gotes between the stock rb25 s2 BOV?

cheers

is there a gasket? mine doesnt have one, granted its a different engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...