Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Turbo Upgrade

Rhysee

By Rhysee,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rhysee Explorer

Rhysee

Posted
Posted

Ive tryed searching but cant find clear information.

Im buying a bigger turbo for my rb20 and im thinking either HKS GTRS or 2530.

Are these turbos direct replacement,will the stock oil/water lines fit?intake pipe fit?dump?Etc.

So can i just buy the turbo itself or will i need to buy it in a kit with oil lines etc?

Cheers Rhys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303772-rb20-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites
ItsBoostin Enthusiast

ItsBoostin

Posted
Posted

Hey man just finished putting a new turbo on my 32.

I went for a 33 highflowed by hypergear straight swap they suppley you with a new oil line and you need to cut a bit off the heat sheild to make it fit. Also you need a 33 intake elbow for the top of the turbo.

Seems pretty good so far havent had it tuned yet so cant really give you any info there. Boost comes on about 4000 pulls hard at about 4500.

Pretty easy to install hope this helps a little.

OMGGTR Mentor

OMGGTR

Posted
Posted

Errm GT-RS man.. whole kit ur looking at like 4k.. lol heap of kesh but i guess its an awesome kit...

I'd be going with the 2530 a lot of people love these... small turbo good for like 230kw... and great response..!

trust me for an rb20 u want response...!

I'm gonna go for a 2530 myself but just gotta wait no kesh and I'm gonna love it in the GTS-4 :banana:

good luck with choosing if i had the money i might have considered the gt-rs

take care.

bcozican Experienced

bcozican

Posted
Posted

those two are direct replacement turbos bolt on to existing flanges and if you get the kit yep you get everything.

you can buy the turbo's by themselves but you are just gonna have to get lines made up separate..depends if you can get your hands on a kit or not at a good price

depends on supporting mods and power figures but a GTRS will prob be too big and laggy... i had a 2530 on with cams + supporting maxed it out 321hp (240 rwkw) all in and done by 3800rpm till redline ... went hard

OMGGTR Mentor

OMGGTR

Posted
Posted
those two are direct replacement turbos bolt on to existing flanges and if you get the kit yep you get everything.

you can buy the turbo's by themselves but you are just gonna have to get lines made up separate..depends if you can get your hands on a kit or not at a good price

depends on supporting mods and power figures but a GTRS will prob be too big and laggy... i had a 2530 on with cams + supporting maxed it out 321hp (240 rwkw) all in and done by 3800rpm till redline ... went hard

2530 droolll lol see responsive is what ur after you dont want it spooling at like 4500rpm by then (if ur in a drag) thell be long gone lol

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Even with a 2530, i have been in several RB20s with 2530s now and sure they may be making boost a few hundred rom earlier but the engines dont really start to pull until 4,500rpm. Turbos like the 2530 do give you more meat between 3,500 and 4,500rpm but when you consider that a bigger turbo will boost harder as the engine comes onto cam at about 4,500rpm the actual difference isnt that great.

So a 2530 will give you about 220-230 and nice drivability but still far worse then std (but better then any 450hp hi-flow will ever hope to match) Then you can go something bigger like a 2835 of GT-RS which will boost a few hundred rpm later, closer to 4,300-4,500rpm as the engine comes on cam. But rather then nose diving over 6,500rpm because of the tiny hot side of the turbo you can actually get more meat into the 7,000rpm rev band.

Its been a while since i looked, but the lil 2530 sort of hits peak power at about 6,200rpm and dies off. A bigger turbo (in my case TD06 which isnt too different to a GT-RS) actually hits that sort of peak power at about 6,000rpm on its way to making over 230rwkws all the way between 6,000rpm and 8,000rpm, peaking as high as 260rwkws.) It will make for the far quicker car if you can keep the thing on the boil. But if you are driving between 3,000-5,500rpm then the bigger turbo will lose out

.

So really depends on what you want. If you want ultimate performance where its harder to go quick and you have to work harder then the GT-RS will make for the quicker car. But if you want lazier, easier power that feels quicker most of the time then the 2530 is a proven, good thing

Will line a friend up in his Tomei camed RB20 with 2530 and my std TD06 RB20 for a second gear 40km/h roll on. Will be interesting. I bet he gets the jump but will be itneresting to see if i catch him up????

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted

roy is right, rb20's love to rev so get a turbo that works well when they rev!!!

2530 is great turbo but really lacks the top end punch people expect now days...

i've got a bolt on hypergear turbo sitting at home which im hoping will be all in by 4300 and punch power out all the way to 8000-8500rpm :(

Wheezy Mentor

Wheezy

Posted
Posted

Was gonna mention the TD06, but didn't wanna look one sided, but Roy has seen more combo's than I, and I agree, I just wouldn't bother with one for a daily if you are planning to enjoy the turbo on the street. If you are looking at track then go for it, a great option. But hey I'm biased.

What about a 2871 style turbo with a proper garrett (t3 flanged) housing and not the machined OP6 housing? would that work out?

woodz_gtr Newbie

woodz_gtr

Posted
Posted
Was gonna mention the TD06, but didn't wanna look one sided, but Roy has seen more combo's than I, and I agree, I just wouldn't bother with one for a daily if you are planning to enjoy the turbo on the street. If you are looking at track then go for it, a great option. But hey I'm biased.

What about a 2871 style turbo with a proper garrett (t3 flanged) housing and not the machined OP6 housing? would that work out?

Also wondering about this ive got a kkr430 at the moment and its junk. Its too big and dosn't make much boost until 4500rpm.

Any thoughts about how early in the rev range say either a 3071r or 2871r would come onto boost?

Also i have a hks cast manifold with hks gate and have heard that a 3071 is suited to this set up is this true?

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted

I have hks2530 turbo.

Aim for a series 2 hks2530, they are direct bolt-on to standard r32 dump pipe (dont need a hks dump pipe) and are more responsive.

Easiest way to tell is that series 2 have 9 fins and split between wastegate

600x4482008092200010.jpg

Direct bolt-on to r32's. Doesnt hurt to have some new braided lines, but im pretty sure its fine on standard lines (do some research into this)

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted
Will line a friend up in his Tomei camed RB20 with 2530 and my std TD06 RB20 for a second gear 40km/h roll on. Will be interesting. I bet he gets the jump but will be itneresting to see if i catch him up????

I got a std 2530 if that will make the comparison better :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...