Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:D I'm getting the timing belt service thingo done on my R34GTT next Tues, I'm having the timing belt, tensioner spring ,tensioner bearings and water pump replaced along with a wanky see through top timing belt cover fitted.

I'm planning on a Gates Racing timing belt being fitted.

The issue is that I've come across a number of posts where the Gates belt has apparently been noisey as, although many of the topics posts then divert into pulley belts for the aircon , power steer belts etc with no real conclusion at the end of the day.

The simple questions are--are Gates Racing timing belts noisey and if so why ?

The engine in this car is as quiet as a mouse and I'm not building a noise nuisance into it if I can avoid it.

SO THERE !! :P

Any comments or personal experiances to share anyone ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304183-gates-belts-noisey/
Share on other sites

My mate has a Gates Racing put on his 33 GTST and it was noisy.

no 1 Over tightening

no 2 In the past the only time a new belt seems to be noisy is if the bearings (tensioner and idler are not replaced). Thus being that new belt applies slight different load on the bearings. They are 90% of the time the source of the noise, if the belt was not over tightened

Hope this was clear :P

no 1 Over tightening

no 2 In the past the only time a new belt seems to be noisy is if the bearings (tensioner and idler are not replaced). Thus being that new belt applies slight different load on the bearings. They are 90% of the time the source of the noise, if the belt was not over tightened

Hope this was clear :D

:P Thanks for that, good as gold, Gavin Woods/Autotec are doing the job so everything should be aces, I was only concerned that it may have been an integral characteristic if the Gates Racing belt.

If you want to buy one I have a brand new in packet belt, which I purchased for my R32 GTR (I assume it fits all RB engines). I ended up going with a standard nissan item.

$90 including postage anywhere in Asutralia.

PM or SMS me on 0411 415 644.

:ph34r: Thanks guys , in first thing tomorrow , fingers crossed , I'll post result , but I'm sure they'll be apples.

gtr fanPosted Today, 01:13 PM If you want to buy one I have a brand new in packet belt, which I purchased for my R32 GTR (I assume it fits all RB engines). I ended up going with a standard nissan item. $90 including postage anywhere in Asutralia.

Thanks mate already got all the stuff :down:

The belt it's self will not be noisy, the big issue is doing it to tight. With the gates t/belt if it is to tight the coloured coating on the outside tends to rub off on the pulleys which then causes the noise which people just think is due to the belt it's self

;)

Well , I can now speak with the voice of experiance, the timing belt service (Gates Racing belt, tensioner bearings, spring and waterpump) was done the day before yesterday by Gavin Woods workshop Autotech and this belt don't squeel, whir, or otherwise make any noise in fact the engine noise is, if anything, quieter.

Pays to have it done as the belt that came out of my 98R34GTT 81000ks which I would have thought would have been changed at least once in the cars life looked like it was the original, didn't appear to be cracking anywhere or overly stressed or worn-just origional..

Go Figure :)

doesn't suprise me that it hadn't been done with only 81,000kms on the car. the service schedule says to do it at 100,000kms so that's what they do it at even though with low km driving there should also be a time frame thrown in for good measure, people just usually leave it until it gets to the set kms to change it

doesn't suprise me that it hadn't been done with only 81,000kms on the car. the service schedule says to do it at 100,000kms so that's what they do it at even though with low km driving there should also be a time frame thrown in for good measure, people just usually leave it until it gets to the set kms to change it

The time frame is normally 5year/100,000km. my R34 had only done 45,000 when i changed it. the car was 10years old at that point and the back side of the belt was starting to crack.

:D Well I obviously spoke too soon 3 days and 254 ks farkin noisey , was there when I pulled in to the garage this afternoon-horrible frakin thrummin throbbin whir, cant hear it when I'm on the move ---yet---but I let it cool down a bit then started it up wasn't noticable , took it for a run to bring it back up to operating temp pulled into the shed and there it was back again--worse than before aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh !!!!! ;)

SPEWIN !

Update--

it's quiet when cold and sounds a bit more like a syncopated srcaping than whiring alnost as though its catching on something when it's hot, can only just hear it inside when at idle and not atall when driving.

Any ideas anyone ?

straight back to the workshop! in fact depending on how bad it sounds you might want to talk to them first and ask if they want to pay for a tow.

mostlikely just a bolt not tight under the cover but you don't want to take a chance considering it could wreck the whole motor.

OK been back to the workshop -twice - the problem is that this frakin noise shows up when the car is properly hot, that is a 30c+day and about a couple of hours worth of running around. it dosent help when I take it in to the workshop and I get a good traffic light friendly run as it cools enough to just be a gwruuur --gwruuur--gwruuur-slightly gratey pulsing noise . --writing on the inside if the belt has been blamed for this.

When it's cold it doesn't do it attall.

It didn't do it attall for the first 250ks and it worrys me that something is being progressively fraked up as when it does come on now it's progressively worse sounding.

When its doing it the noise is like a pulsing stuffed needle bearing crossed with a fan belt thats catchin the radiator shroud all inside an oil drum.

Any ides anyone ?

  • 4 weeks later...

Update--took it back to the workshop again and they re tensioned the belt again , it's now done another 300ks since and is as quiet as mice.

It was mentioned that it was not tensioned as much as an OE one would be this time around so I guess we can sumise that there is a fractional give in the OE belt to allow for engine expansion when hot and as Gates states "Zero give in a Gates Racing blue belt" which causing bearing noise if overtensioned when the engine is hot.

Or Like That :)

Mine just got done it's loud as at idle. Can be heard easily in the cabin even in traffic - only below 900rpm does it make the noise. Above that it's quiet. Done at a workshop that deals with a lot of RBs. Considering just getting a Nissan belt put on instead even though I'll then have wasted my money on this belt.

It's way too loud to drive at night when quiet - definately I do not recommend Gates racing belt. Should have gone genuine but didn't know about this issue until after I bought it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...