Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did Kier Wilson run a similar setup on his OSGIKEN RB30? Might of been TD06 x 2 but that was good for a 9 sec pass on street radials.

I like the mitsu turbos personally and at 18psi you certainly have room for more boost if you want. You'd probably be looking at 500rwhp+ easily.

The lag on a standard rb26 will only last as long as they take to blow it up

Dude, grow up. That is a stupid thing to say.

There have been plenty of stock engine 26 to reliably push over 400rwkw when tuned correctly. I raced a 15yo stock bottom end 26 for 2 drag seasons with nearly 400rwkw's... mid 10's. Willall's put a tdo6 kit on a stock re-build bottom end GTR with well over 400rwkw... that was 4 or 5 years ago at least.......

A correcly tuned td05 kit would actually be easier on a stock engine, as compared to smaller turbos for the same power level.

I'd suggest a set of drop in 260 deg cams to compliment them.

Obviously you will need a fuel system and other supporting mods to get the best out of them.

Cheers

Justin

hey guys

im thinking of going twin high mount td05 16g, just wondering what power they are good for on 17-18psi

also how laggy they would be on a standard rb26?

cheers

Considering in your other thread just a few days ago you said...

ive got hks gtss turbos at the moment ... after a single ... set up ... i want it to be responsive im only after 400-450rwhp on 17 18 psi

The answer is VERY laggy compared to what you have on there now (if it was correctly setup).

So... what is it?

400-440rwhp or 540rwhp?

Then you also said...

the reason i want to go single is because its easier to work on as the engine is in a s15 and there isnt much room,

You think two high mounts + gates + plumbing/piping is all going to be easier to work on than int gated factory mounted turbos?

How often do you think you are going to "work" on them? You shouldn't be pulling the turbos off once bolted on...

:)

1. Your current setup (GT-SS's) is poorly setup, you have improvements to make there...

2. You've set your requirements and in less than 5 days have turned them upside down...

I'm sensing a severe case of major indicision :rofl: - you really need to sit down and think about exactly what you want.

Changing your mind/requirements/goals will lead generally to a hasty decision.

If the guy wants top mounts... he wants top mounts. GTSS's arn't the b all and end all in rb26 turbo's....

If he want's top mounts, td05's are going to be about the smallest top kit he's going to find easily.

Response is relative...

Edited by XRATED

This thread isn't about singles, 540bhp or how hard turbo's are to work on... reguardless of what else has been posted elsewhere.

It's about TD05's...

We've all thrown around different ideas, asking peoples opinions on different setups... why not? This site's purpose is to gain from others experience and share information.

Back to the OP.

A td05 kit would be unique, powerfull and look good in a S15. Yes the td05's will take more rpm to come into positive boost than gt-ss low mounts... They will also flow -ALOT- more air/hp with much less exhaust back pressure, less shaft rpm and cooler intake charge (all will atribute to more power and easier on your engine).

If you have a built bottom end- even if you dont, 20+ psi of boost will nab you well over 400rwkw... even with a standard head. I made 398rwkw with smaller turbos on 98 pump fuel with a standard 15yo rb26.

Trust turbos produce some good numbers...

Cheers

Justin

It's about TD05's...

A td05 kit would be unique, powerfull and look good in a S15. Yes the td05's will take more rpm to come into positive boost than gt-ss low mounts... They will also flow -ALOT- more air/hp with much less exhaust back pressure, less shaft rpm and cooler intake charge (all will atribute to more power and easier on your engine).

Ok then so why don't you put it in plain english then - you highlighted the "pros" nicely, what about the cons?

CON - They will be extremely laggy for the output.

Nice and clear, simple. Addresses on of the questions clearly, rather than sliding it in among "pros".

Trust turbos produce some good numbers...

I'm yet to see a Trust Twin setup be as responsive as a Garrett/HKS setup.

Numbers aren't everything, nor are dyno sheets.

Happy to be proven wrong if you actually have proof?

Ok then so why don't you put it in plain english then - you highlighted the "pros" nicely, what about the cons?

CON - They will be extremely laggy for the output.

Nice and clear, simple. Addresses on of the questions clearly, rather than sliding it in among "pros".

I'm yet to see a Trust Twin setup be as responsive as a Garrett/HKS setup.

Numbers aren't everything, nor are dyno sheets.

Happy to be proven wrong if you actually have proof?

Dude... I'm not getting into one of your typical keyboard warrior arguments. Especially as your a mod (you will just delete my post... yes you do.)

I did write that they take longer to come onto boost than a pair of gtss's... BUT WE'RE NOT COMPARING TURBOS! AND this is not going to be ANOTHER Trust v's HKS turbo comparison thread. You can't... they are completly different!!!!!!!!!!! I CAN prove that a td05 kit WILL make more power and spool slower than gtsss. I'm not and cant say they will spool faster or are comparitive- where did I post that?

Horese for courses...

They will however, produce the same power as a pair of gtss's at less boost, less exhaust manifold pressure and timing... thus easier on your engine.

Personal note- Nismoid, I do find you very abrasive at times around the forum.

Justin

Edited by XRATED

I recall seeing in a Jap magazine an article on a car running the twin TD05-18Gs, the ones with the bigger bellmouth inlets and the thing appeared to be an animal. They looked to be equiv/better then 2530s because the manifolding and twin gates. They are similar sort of turbos to the EVO crowd so dont really understand why they woul dbe lappy, they are only 350hp turbos or there abouts

Dude... I'm not getting into one of your typical keyboard warrior arguments. Especially as your a mod (you will just delete my post... yes you do.)

I did write that they take longer to come onto boost than a pair of gtss's... BUT WE'RE NOT COMPARING TURBOS! AND this is not going to be ANOTHER Trust v's HKS turbo comparison thread. You can't... they are completly different!!!!!!!!!!! I CAN prove that a td05 kit WILL make more power and spool slower than gtsss. I'm not and cant say they will spool faster or are comparitive- where did I post that?

Horese for courses...

They will however, produce the same power as a pair of gtss's at less boost, less exhaust manifold pressure and timing... thus easier on your engine.

Personal note- Nismoid, I do find you very abrasive at times around the forum.

Justin

I don't delete posts unless they are fairly over the forum rule line, don't drag drivel into this. Please stick to evidence.

And... Speaking of which, where is your evidence of said setup? Come on, bit of comparo of results, get this thread going.

OP asked how laggy will they be - answer is without question - very. Results will demonstrate that fact.

I'm all for sticking to "the topic at hand", but broaden your mind a little bit here.

Take into account past questions/history/OP that appears to be asking lots of questions to further his own knowledge

Simply providing a vanilla answer won't help much at all for someone that is eager to learn and be helped.

As for less engine stress, he has a built motor already, scrap that argument already.

I don't delete posts unless they are fairly over the forum rule line, don't drag drivel into this. Please stick to evidence.

And... Speaking of which, where is your evidence of said setup? Come on, bit of comparo of results, get this thread going.

OP asked how laggy will they be - answer is without question - very. Results will demonstrate that fact.

I'm all for sticking to "the topic at hand", but broaden your mind a little bit here.

Take into account past questions/history/OP that appears to be asking lots of questions to further his own knowledge

Simply providing a vanilla answer won't help much at all for someone that is eager to learn and be helped.

As for less engine stress, he has a built motor already, scrap that argument already.

Hey Ash, are you calling 2530s VERY LAGGY? The 16G has a smaller compressor then the 18G. I am willing to bet that the setup would be very similar to a 2530 setup. Considering that a TD05-16G is effectively an externally gated T517Z then .... would be interesting.

I don't delete posts unless they are fairly over the forum rule line, don't drag drivel into this. Please stick to evidence.

And... Speaking of which, where is your evidence of said setup? Come on, bit of comparo of results, get this thread going.

OP asked how laggy will they be - answer is without question - very. Results will demonstrate that fact.

I'm all for sticking to "the topic at hand", but broaden your mind a little bit here.

Take into account past questions/history/OP that appears to be asking lots of questions to further his own knowledge

Simply providing a vanilla answer won't help much at all for someone that is eager to learn and be helped.

As for less engine stress, he has a built motor already, scrap that argument already.

Can we see a graph which proves that the will demonstrate the other side of the story while we are at it?

Lets get two graphs (doubt we will seen anything that we can accurately compare but lets see if we can) otherwise both sides are speculation.

Lets also get some compressor maps while we are at it and make some more accurate speculations. :banana:

We can look at housings / trims, bearing cores and make a guesstimation, but its still a best guess.

Trust and HKS build their turbos (bearing theories) quite different from what I understand. While the plain bearing is more volatile and supposedly not as responsive, a ball bearing provides some friction by its own nature. Tech docs suggest the cost outweighs the negatives and in this day and age why not.

But lets see who has mastered their craft, its an interesting debate and the million dollar question.

Again at the end of the day horses for courses. :(

this is an old generation kit, it was replaced by the T517Z internal gate kits as the results are similar yet the x gate kits were 4x more expensive.

Td05-16g specs comp (46.5mm in 60mm outer) Ex side (47.6mm and 56)

T517Z specs comp (48mm in 68mm outer) Ex side (49mm and 56)

Dude, grow up. That is a stupid thing to say.

There have been plenty of stock engine 26 to reliably push over 400rwkw when tuned correctly. I raced a 15yo stock bottom end 26 for 2 drag seasons with nearly 400rwkw's... mid 10's. Willall's put a tdo6 kit on a stock re-build bottom end GTR with well over 400rwkw... that was 4 or 5 years ago at least.......

A correcly tuned td05 kit would actually be easier on a stock engine, as compared to smaller turbos for the same power level.

I'd suggest a set of drop in 260 deg cams to compliment them.

Obviously you will need a fuel system and other supporting mods to get the best out of them.

Cheers

Justin

And yet soo many crack pistons at way less power.

this is an old generation kit, it was replaced by the T517Z internal gate kits as the results are similar yet the x gate kits were 4x more expensive.

Td05-16g specs comp (46.5mm in 60mm outer) Ex side (47.6mm and 56)

T517Z specs comp (48mm in 68mm outer) Ex side (49mm and 56)

By all accounts the TD05-16g's should spool better than the T517Z's going by the sizes of the wheels. The piping looks like a nightmare though on some of the engine bays I have seen photos of.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...