Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

i have just bought myself my first skyline it is a r34 25GT 4 door with an rb25de neo engine and i was just wondering what would be the best cheap and easy modifications to make to get a bit better power and performance out of it? and how to get better handeling and cornering?

cheers Curtis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305272-what-modifications-to-do/
Share on other sites

read around in the N/A section, these things have been covered many times.

in a nutshell

-2.5" exhaust

- high flow panel air filter

- 98 octane fuel

- make your car lighter

unless you want to go crazy and spend big money on an NA car. The return on performance parts on NA cars is little.

question 1: are you on your p's and therefore have power restrictions?

if yes, see above. if no, you bought the wrong car to make power from. sell it and buy a turbo version

that is all.

oh and for the handling side of things, get a set of coil overs

question 1: are you on your p's and therefore have power restrictions?

if yes, see above. if no, you bought the wrong car to make power from. sell it and buy a turbo version

that is all.

oh and for the handling side of things, get a set of coil overs

yeah im on p's but live in tassie so it doesn't matter if i have a turbo, its just insurance cost a bomb with a turbo.

and thanks for the advice it is much appreciated

Get a DECENT set of coilovers,you'll be surprised how much of a difference they will make to the overall handling to your car.

As suggested, an LSD is a good option. You'll have to buy an R33 LSD. You can also put R33 GTS25t brakes on aswell.

A decent set of tyres with wider rims will make your car handle nicer too.

I know the GT-V does

yeah, you'd think the four wheel drive does too?? does the GT V have a "SLIP" light?

im asking cos im trying to decide if i can use LSD diff oil when i change the oil, ive posted in the drivetrain section but not much luck there either

if i jacked the car up and turned the wheels... wouldnt an LSD make the wheels turn together and in the same direction??

ive had my GT FOUR fully stuck in the mud once before cos i was parked on the grass on a wee hill and it rained all night, lol, when i was trying to get it out all FOUR wheels were turning together....as if it were LSD

what you guys think?

sometimes a car with an open diff can still spin all the drive wheels. i know my falcon used to at times. other times it would only do 1 wheel. if there is little tracion (like in mud, etc) then it is easy for there to be enough friction in the diff to spin all the wheels. had 1 side been on something with more grip and the other in mud and they had all spun/driven then you would know for sure that it had a LSD. also as an open diff starts to wear out it can often start to spin both wheels more.

No point having extra power when the car handles like shit... Coilovers are a great start, swaybars and strut braces would make a load of difference. Then if any bushes look old or are getting worn then replace them and the car will handle 10x better!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...