M35 Rotor's & Brakes

[ironpaw]

I guess I'll keep on driving and see how things are after a fortnight. Maybe rebleed again

[Sunkist]

I guess I'll keep on driving and see how things are after a fortnight. Maybe rebleed again

poor bastard!

[wht510]

I guess I'll keep on driving and see how things are after a fortnight. Maybe rebleed again

I suggest the MC is the right size. It's bloody huge

My suggestion is to bed the brakes in.

Somewhere on here is a procedure, but basically go to 80km/h and stop hard to 60, repeat around 6 times bordering on ABS engagement. Then 100 down to 40 twice bordering on ABS engagement, then cool slowly (drive around 60km/h with the occasional light brake pedal to slow and then speed up)

Don't ever physically stop... otherwise you'll warp disks etc.

I'm sure there are other brake pad bedding procedures etc, and my memory may be failing me.

After you have done this, it should be good to go and your pedal travel may decrease

Where the rotors machined before you got them or did you sand paper them before fitting?

Where the pads new?

[Daleo]

I seem to remember Danny being a little underwhelmed with his setup until it was properly bedded in; similar to you, he was saying they were soggy to begin, but as they bedded in they were heaps better.

[ironpaw]

I suggest the MC is the right size. It's bloody huge

My suggestion is to bed the brakes in.

Somewhere on here is a procedure, but basically go to 80km/h and stop hard to 60, repeat around 6 times bordering on ABS engagement. Then 100 down to 40 twice bordering on ABS engagement, then cool slowly (drive around 60km/h with the occasional light brake pedal to slow and then speed up)

Don't ever physically stop... otherwise you'll warp disks etc.

I'm sure there are other brake pad bedding procedures etc, and my memory may be failing me.

After you have done this, it should be good to go and your pedal travel may decrease

Where the rotors machined before you got them or did you sand paper them before fitting?

Where the pads new?

New rotors and pads...didn't sand it but I think Scott sprayed them with something to get rid of the anti corosion film.

I did about 2-300km's of driving after the new brakes were put on. So I guess maybe I should do more "bedding" in driving...

[ironpaw]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STILLEN-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-STIFFENER-350Z-Z33-03-08-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c57b87eeeQQitemZ190450269934QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Are these things worth it? Awfully expensive for what it is!

[Sunkist]

they dont fit on our car.. 350z bay is VERY different.

[spoolin12]

I am pretty sure Chris(Akebono) and Ben(Brembo) have not replaced there master cylinder or brake booster either.

Yep, Ben changed to the 350Z Brembo and I changed to the 370Z Akebono (just a strait bolt on - no other changes made). I have about 1 inch of pedal movement. No pumping... just shit loads of power. Ben's is very similar to mine. We had to bleed them 2 times till we were happy.

[wht510]

New rotors and pads...didn't sand it but I think Scott sprayed them with something to get rid of the anti corosion film.

I did about 2-300km's of driving after the new brakes were put on. So I guess maybe I should do more "bedding" in driving...

Driving around the street and bedding the rotors in are two completely different things. One you are just scraping the surface, and the other you are actually embedding brake pad material into the rotor which provides the stopping power you require and also 'moulds' the pad to the rotor (to some extent).

Bed and bleed. Job done.

[iamhe77]

they dont fit on our car.. 350z bay is VERY different.

I did read an Engrish blog yesterday where a modded NM35 running the Brembo's on 355 discs upgraded to a BNR34 master cylinder.

He said that it was a perfect fit and a definite improvement.

He also said that the Z33 would not fit and was a little upset at the wasted money lol

Edited May 10, 2011 by iamhe77

[Sunkist]

I did read an Engrish blog yesterday where a modded NM35 running the Brembo's on 355 discs upgraded to a BNR34 master cylinder.

He said that it was a perfect fit and a definite improvement.

He also said that the Z33 would not fit and was a little upset at the wasted money lol

how am i stupid?

You buy it and tell me it fits. just like the engine cover with a spacer

[iamhe77]

how am i stupid?

You buy it and tell me it fits. just like the engine cover with a spacer

Sensitive? Would you prefer I simply put a "+1" if I agree with you

I was just offering a little information I picked up regarding a possible brake master cylinder upgrade.

At the risk of going waaay off topic with you, I have installed a few spacer kits where the owner wanted to keep the engine cover on... and they do fit without modifying/cutting. I'll have a look at yours next time I see you if you want.

[ironpaw]

Hmm screw the engine cover I'd rather fit a strut brace....

possible with the spacer?

OK, so the consensus is taht cylinder upgrade not needed.

Will try to bed them in tonight. Maybe rebleed again...u gonna luv this scott...

[Sunkist]

Hmm screw the engine cover I'd rather fit a strut brace....

possible with the spacer?

OK, so the consensus is taht cylinder upgrade not needed.

Will try to bed them in tonight. Maybe rebleed again...u gonna luv this scott...

re bleed them after they've been bed in. i reckon anyway..

and cam you have my seals anyway so i should be seeing you soon. if you can make it fit with the bonnet closing? I'll be happy

[Sunkist]

Hmm screw the engine cover I'd rather fit a strut brace....

possible with the spacer?

OK, so the consensus is taht cylinder upgrade not needed.

Will try to bed them in tonight. Maybe rebleed again...u gonna luv this scott...

re bleed them after they've been bed in. i reckon anyway..

and cam you have my seals anyway so i should be seeing you soon. if you can make it fit with the bonnet closing? I'll be happy

[scotty nm35]

Hmm screw the engine cover I'd rather fit a strut brace....

possible with the spacer?

OK, so the consensus is taht cylinder upgrade not needed.

Will try to bed them in tonight. Maybe rebleed again...u gonna luv this scott...

Yeh yeh, the price just went up.

[ironpaw]

Yeh yeh, the price just went up.

LOL...f**ker!!!

[ironpaw]

Followed the procedures above tonight...came home and found this:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinperformance.shtml

I'm supposed to do 20 brake runs!!?

Hope I didn't ruin my rotors and pads...

[wht510]

I suggest the MC is the right size. It's bloody huge

My suggestion is to bed the brakes in.

Somewhere on here is a procedure, but basically go to 80km/h and stop hard to 60, repeat around 6 times bordering on ABS engagement. Then 100 down to 40 twice bordering on ABS engagement, then cool slowly (drive around 60km/h with the occasional light brake pedal to slow and then speed up)

Don't ever physically stop... otherwise you'll warp disks etc.

I'm sure there are other brake pad bedding procedures etc, and my memory may be failing me.

After you have done this, it should be good to go and your pedal travel may decrease

Where the rotors machined before you got them or did you sand paper them before fitting?

Where the pads new?

I did say my memory was failing me!!

Their test sounds more aggressive. Really if you don't get the 'green fade', then it wont do anything.

[bigkevracer]

Hmm screw the engine cover I'd rather fit a strut brace....

possible with the spacer?

no, no you cant. Theres about 3mm gap without the spacer.

What is the capacity of our braking systems? Trying to work out how much fluid I need...

Also, opening a can of worms, how do you know what temp brake fluid you need?

Searching tells me everyone uses a variety, or doesnt talk about it, with Motul RBF600 the most popular. But when I was at Autobarn today, it was 3-4 times the price of the Performance DOT 4 alternatives from a variety of players. As far as I can tell theres about 30-50 degrees difference in dry boiling points (270-320ish).