My Wmi Install

[jet_r31]

unfortunately my car is running a microtech, I am on the 'buy a house' budget now and cant afford to change it again

my thought is to have an airtight tank under bonnet with a barb on the top and a barb on the bottom

top barb has a check valve and a ball and spring like a turbo tech to regulate when boost can pressurize the tank, bottom barb runs direct to the atomiser which i will mount into the suction pipe on the turbo.

as the system hits target boost pressure the turbotech will open and push the water through the bottom side of the tank spraying its mist into the non boosted intake stream

thus the dual map idea isnt going to work too well unless i am manually switching... plus i dont think the microguess has dual map capability (i am surprised it can window in and out....)

good to know it doesnt consume it too quickly, I would probably end up with a 5 or 6L underbonnet tank if i was to go ahead with it and just want to know it will last atleast a week of heavy driving or atleast one full track day.

LPG solenoids for air and water and a hobbs pressure switch are your freind....., if your on the cheap you can find the solenoids at a wreckers.

and a EF falcon )think thats it) radiator header tank for a bottle...throw it in the back..

I had it setup like that pre-turbo with a water/air atomiser on my 31, and my brothers gemini has it aswell, his makes 250rwkw on 26psi on 98 octane at 6000ish rpm.(runs 126-127mph)

His would make f**kloads more but had a very small 210 @ .50 - 350 thou lift camshaft at the time. It s still a G180 with a Gt3082.

Both where not octane limited, i stopped as i made enough power and my brother stopped because of boostleaks when tuning. Both setups can run into 30's on pump,

I inject 700ml per minute, think he only used 200ml ish.

cheers

darren

Edited January 13, 2012 by jet_r31

[GTScotT]

Pre-compressor induction of the water spray is a different sort of science. And wait for the comments about wearing out impellers etc. It is apparent that you have to do it right, but it will work.

Sizing your nozzle correctly should yield a water:fuel ratio of somewhere around 15-20%

Some setups work better than others, and there are a couple of forums about dedicated to WI. Great pictures, and more than a few variations that will give you an idea of what you want.

Thanks Dale, very much agree it will be careful nozzle selection that pulls it off but definitely believe it is doable without too much hassle.

Ill definitely read into the best way to do it, but am chasing the simplest method over the best... If my boost fed plan isnt half as good as an electronic kit i will probably ditch the idea.. Unless a kit is available fairly cheap. The S14 is designed to be a bang for buck project which I seem to need reminding of very regularly.

LPG solenoids for air and water and a hobbs pressure switch are your freind....., if your on the cheap you can find the solenoids at a wreckers.

and a EF falcon )think thats it) radiator header tank for a bottle...throw it in the back..

I had it setup like that pre-turbo with a water/air atomiser on my 31, and my brothers gemini has it aswell, his makes 250rwkw on 26psi on 98 octane at 6000ish rpm.(runs 126-127mph)

His would make f**kloads more but had a very small 210 @ .50 - 350 thou lift camshaft at the time. It s still a G180 with a Gt3082.

Both where not octane limited, i stopped as i made enough power and my brother stopped because of boostleaks when tuning. Both setups can run into 30's on pump,

I inject 700ml per minute, think he only used 200ml ish.

cheers

darren

Thanks heaps for the falcon bottle heads up, that is freaking clever because they are more or less the radiator header tank rather than an overflow.. They are made to hold pressure and have barbs exactly like what I need, THANKS!

Also very nice to know how helpful it is man, that is a tiny cam in that old clunker of a motor making nice power with a good MPH. My brother put a 3037 on an Astron2 2.6 POS and only managed 170kw with lets call it NO MPH

When I head to pick n dont pay for a BA TPS soon Ill pick up a header tank for teh lulz, see how well it will fit into my battery tray on the S14

Think water alone will fend off both big boost AND my 10:1cr or is that a tall order? LOL Ive seen these setups make rotaries do things that seem impossible

[jet_r31]

water alone will do it best, 50/50 makes a bit more power, we picked up 8 rwkw from switching from water to 50/50 on the gemini, however i ran just straight water.

Straight water is probally best for what you want to do. Funny thing is the water injection done this way, as the boost increases, so does water flow, so works better in my opion than the

pump ones (without a variable flow control computer thing)as they have ALL there water flow when they switch on ay 8psi ish.

Yeh rotarys run 25psi plus 98 octane tunes this way, best thing is they don't blow up aswell like usual on other fuels...

cheers

darren

Edited January 13, 2012 by jet_r31

[GTScotT]

ive had to park this concept for now,

mechanically/electrically/tune wise I cant find a problem and everything is right but my shitf*ck gay microtech just cant get the SR fire up. spluttering like it wants to go but wont go...

will pick this back up once i stop losing sleep about this new problem

[jet_r31]

ive had to park this concept for now,

mechanically/electrically/tune wise I cant find a problem and everything is right but my shitf*ck gay microtech just cant get the SR fire up. spluttering like it wants to go but wont go...

will pick this back up once i stop losing sleep about this new problem

Not a flat battery..lol, i only ask because of the amount of times that has happened....under a certain voltage they switch the pumps of. Had it happen 3 times to various

people after fitting them. Cars still has plenty of volts to turn over at that point aswell

cheers

darren

[Stevoss]

ive had to park this concept for now,

mechanically/electrically/tune wise I cant find a problem and everything is right but my shitf*ck gay microtech just cant get the SR fire up. spluttering like it wants to go but wont go...

will pick this back up once i stop losing sleep about this new problem

checked your timing with a timing light, i know they have issues with the cas offset, they are a weird number compared to some other nissans.

[DVS JEZ]

Buy a nistune

[GTScotT]

LOL @ nistune, its on the cards..... Obviously cant put a timing light on it either coz the fking thing wont start..

I suspected the pump being an issue already, even low fuel, etc etc... I put a fresh battery in it and it nearly turns over quick enough to idle on the starter lol.. I actually grounded the pump control wire also so it just stays on while cranking.

Still no love

Ive timed the motor mechanically as per the FSM (rocker cover off and lined up all the timing marks) and I have spark and fuel (injector pulse too), but no go. I even sprayed startyabastard while cranking and it just wont fking kick over... Its trying and splutters along but it just wont do it.

I changed the reference points for the cas a little and got it sounding a little closer to starting but not close enough obviously..

FFS I could really use some help right now lol... I put an essay on the microtech forum and thus far I am the only person to have even looked at it.....................

[DVS JEZ]

Very good support from microguess :thumbsdown:

[GTScotT]

I actually rang them today, they were closed over xmas (understandable) and the tech there was actually really helpful.

Told me to try a couple of things and call him back if it doesnt start. But he confirmed my method of wiring and all the rest are all fine and no issues there, also said i can put a timing light on it while cranking and check where it is (didnt know that) and told me how to properly set the TPS which I didnt know.

With the TPS issue resolved and knowing the timing position definitely is correct it should start

[rob82]

I actually rang them today, they were closed over xmas (understandable) and the tech there was actually really helpful.

Told me to try a couple of things and call him back if it doesnt start. But he confirmed my method of wiring and all the rest are all fine and no issues there, also said i can put a timing light on it while cranking and check where it is (didnt know that) and told me how to properly set the TPS which I didnt know.

With the TPS issue resolved and knowing the timing position definitely is correct it should start

What injectors? What do the plugs look like?

[GTScotT]

Nismo 550s

They get very sooty after lots of cranking but they arent getting wet unless im really trying for too long in one go. I get fiery pops out the back too. I sprayed start ya bastard down its throat but no go.

Pretty confident the timing is out but how it could be is beyond me..... maybe my cas is stuffed. Its picking up a consistent signal and is registering RPM on the data screen of the microtech but just wont start. When I timed the cas I took the rocker off and put it to TDC where the cam marks met the silver links on the chain (it only gets there once per 4 rotations - der 4 stroke) so i know that is right in theory..

I dont think its possible to put the chain on wrong (and AFAIK its factory).. If the cam gears are meeting the links exact and the crank is saying TDC it cant possibly be mechanically 180 out.......... I have a feeling the S14 DE dizzy drive gear is slightly different to the DET CAS drive gear and is causing me some sort of odd timing issue that I hope ill find when I put the timing light onto it.

Thing is this tune used to work.. Then the battery died and I couldnt restart it. I then changed the entire motor (as it had spun a bearing) and rewired the headfk spag bowl it was prior until it was 100% stock. Got it started on the stock ECU then rewired the microtech back in, and it never started again -_- lol

Wiring is that freaking simple it CANT be wrong. that is all.

[s213b]

On 14/4/2011 at 7:16 PM, tridentt150v said:

OK, thread raised from the dead.........I made 301.5rwkw today on a DD dyno.

I drove it around without a tune [that used the WMI] like forever...............it wasn't knocking and the car was making good power etc and I am a bloody busy bugger!!!

But I finally made the time and had it tuned. Run before tune made 270rwkw, then we kept adding timing and pulling fuel out until we had a good overall balance and got 300 on 16psi for the final run. I probably could have got more if I wanted to up the boost to say 18-20psi, but considering my motor is not built, I didn't think it was worth the risk.

I'll scan the plots and post soon.

Apologies to all who were waiting for this, I just couldn't get to it any sooner.

Can I revive this - is the car still happy on the WMI? 
cheers