Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

but this sounds exactly like comparing the r33 gtst to an r33gtr, stock for stock there isnt a whole lot of differnce accelerating in the dry, wet is the gtr's main advantage, same with gti and r32,

Have you tried to drive a gti fast compared to an r32..... there is a world of diffence just like compaing the gtst with a gtr, its not all about how fast they go in a straight line if you know what i mean. And in the wet the r32 absolutely slaughters the gti, it is much safer, it is glued to the road ect.... if you can afford it and you like it get the r32

Whilst I agree with what you're saying about the R32 being quicker in the wet, the main issue with the R32 is its engine. It's a pretty heavy donk in a small body- the GTI is much more chuckable. About the safety of the AWD, the GTI's esp is a bloody good system.

Flame me for this, but I'd buy a R32 solely cause its not FWD. Which is why I love the V6 Clio that doesn't get sold here.... Rear engine, rear drive, do like.

lesson 1: fwd pwns all

lesson 2: rare rwd clios pwn their drivers

+1 GTI > R32

that is all

If you're buying the R32 as your ONLY car then I'd say get it. If it's gonna be your daily and you're gonna have a skyline or something to get your kicks out of, then get a GTI.

Looks like I'm going for a GTI manual now, seems like the better option after abit of deliberation. Just wondering where to look up ECu reflashes etc. whats the best one on the market?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...