Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what u do with the plate thats over the part hwere the throttle motor normaly is

Attached is pic of the r33 and r34 throtle bodays an their matching TPS

Also a pic of the doggy spacer plate I made for the ACC valve

what u do with the plate thats over the part hwere the throttle motor normaly is

My car is a series 2 c34 stagea AWD, so it uses the neo motor and the neo throttle body, but has no traction control from factory so nissan blanked it off.

I had another look at the r34 acc valve. I think I can remake the plate but turn the aac valve 90deg so that air line points forward towards the throttle inlet pipe which will work well as it needs to be plumb in.

hey guys,

thats some interesting stuff thats been posted!.

sorry to hijack the post

Ive been searching on here and i have a similar problem more so related to the injector side of things and ecu whether anyone has come across this doing the injector swaps from high impedance to low impedance,

r34 ecu, loom and neo motor, im running nismo 740cc inj which are high impedance, please correct me if im wrong but is it just a matter of following a smilar method like using the rb20 with gtr injectors a resistor pack is needed to make up for the impedance difference can i apply the same method to my setup??? the nismo squirters are in a greddy copy plenum. any help would be much appreciated.

cheers

bill

A few pictures of my setup; Tps and throttle body both work nicely but not getting any values from the computer for the idle control valve yet.

gee doesn't make the engine look so much cleaner! and easier to get to stuff.

and why did nissan do it the other way to start with? less piping easier to maintain..

  • 4 weeks later...

Have finally fitted the plenum but now the r33 throttle body hits the fuse box.

In the R34 and stagea the fuse box is bigger then in a r33.

Looking at different pleum options now

Maybe plazmaman or the jun copy from Thailand unless some has a better idea

Plan is to turn the throtle body 180 deg and remake a adaptor plate from 10mm to clear the fuse box

Just need to use a longer cable either r31/s13 or z32 and make a new mount on the opposite side of the plenum

Plan is to turn the throtle body 180 deg and remake a adaptor plate from 10mm to clear the fuse box

Just need to use a longer cable either r31/s13 or z32 and make a new mount on the opposite side of the plenum

we have had to do the same with the greddy plenum on 4dr skylines (r33 auto) as the fuse box is double the size and the battery is there too :(

From memory you can move the fuse box about an inch. i will chase up some pics of bennys car.

  • 3 months later...

im in the process of doing this now. was just wondering what you guys have done with the coolant lines that run to the AAC. did you guys connect them back in so the AAC has a temp reading? or does it idle fine with out the coolant?

cheers

  • 2 weeks later...
updates??

All done and works well. The main points

1. remove the 2 aligning studs in the head as they are too long. replace with bolts

2. Make a plate for the r34 IAC to adapt to the inlet plenum. have the air line point forward to pull back into inlet piping

3. move fuse box 25mm closer to the side of the car to clear throttle body

4. use a series 2 r33 throttle body. Fit the r34 TPS. Rotate throtle body 180deg so the cable is on the engine side. weld a bracket to the inlet plenum to support cable.

5. cut vacuum metal pipe to power steer pump as it fouls the inlet plenum.

6. I replaced the injectors with 650cc siemens and a new fuel rail, so had to add new sard fuel reg. Fitted the R33/S15 grommets in the plenum for the injectors. approx $12 from nissan and keep the 14mm O ring as well as that makes the seal.

7. Made a 10/12mm adaptor plate for the throttle body as the greddy style adaptor is too long and stopped me using 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 90deg reducing bend. I did not want to relocate battery and cut a bigger hole thru inner skirt

post-14923-1278406594_thumb.jpg

post-14923-1278406635_thumb.jpg

post-14923-1278406673_thumb.jpg

post-14923-1278406716_thumb.jpg

  • 2 years later...

Is this true

can't put the R33 plenum on the RB25det NEO. as the inlet port shape is different so thats why you cant use R33 front facing plenum on a NEO

The ports are "similar" but very different in the injector integration area.

Now is that true as i have R33 front facing plenum on my R34 NEO motor.. been on there for 1year now

but never seen anything happen.. does anyone know ? just keen to know thats all..

Thanks

  • 3 months later...
  • 9 months later...

Bit of a thread bump going on here but has anyone else successfully done this? I would just like as much info as possible before i go ahead and try it.

Seems like all that is needed is an adapter for R34 AAC/Idle valves, spacers (unsure on length) to space the standard neo fuel rail up.

This is the plenum i was looking at purchasing.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-RB25DET-R33-R34-Skyline-Greddy-Style-Intake-Manifold-Plenum-RB25-GTST-/321340318306?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad1602262&_uhb=1

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
×
×
  • Create New...