Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What do you guys reckon of Link computers for R32s?

I know quite a few New Zealand guys use them and seem to like them.

Which would be better between a Link computer and a remap for an R32 RB20DET with FMIC, full exhaust, T04E, external gate, bigger injectors etc etc

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30683-r32-link-or-remap/
Share on other sites

Hi JiMiH, my choice would be to remap in real time the standard R32GTST ECU, if you have finished your mods. If you still have things to upgrade, then a Power FC would be a better choice as the extra cost would be covered by the saved chip burning.

Hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30683-r32-link-or-remap/#findComment-622820
Share on other sites

i went to get info on the new wolf 3D for my rb20det and the bloke said that there was nothing better than the link ECU for a rb20det and then he told me it would be $2300 fitted and tuned so i tuned out, am now looking to remap the factory ecu to get my end results for a thrid the cost!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30683-r32-link-or-remap/#findComment-623975
Share on other sites

How does the Wolf compare to remapping the stock ECU then?

I mean apart from the "wanky" features that you can get such as rotational idle, are there benefits of a Wolf3D above a remapped ECU?

I haven't finished my mods yet, but I think once you have a remapped ECU you only pay for dyno time later to retune it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30683-r32-link-or-remap/#findComment-626337
Share on other sites

James,

I took the remap route and all is sweet at the moment. The place that did my tuning, as you know, are able to do pretty much anything with the ecu, except for the features as you mentioned. They can also do a few other really cool things with the ecu as well. Bit hard to explain on here but they can put on "Valet" mode etc. Stops dickheads thrashing your car basically.

A whole lot cheaper than a Link I'd imagine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30683-r32-link-or-remap/#findComment-627774
Share on other sites

I know enough about the Link not to suggest anyone uses them:p

JiMiH, The wolf will provide so many more features over the remap, without getting into the wanky stuff like anit-lag rotational idle etc. Pop down to see Steve at SST he'll be more than happy to run through some of the feature and demo the software to you:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30683-r32-link-or-remap/#findComment-627808
Share on other sites

Yeah I spoke to Steve at the drags the other night and told him I'd pop in one Saturday morning to check it out.

Dan, I'll have to have a chat with you soon mate and you can tell me bout your remap :( Not to mention take me for a drive :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30683-r32-link-or-remap/#findComment-627817
Share on other sites

Traction control is wanky stuff:p The traction control works via hall-effect sensors, and sends a signal to the engine to drop the power, rather than a second butterfly infront of the plenum like the factory fitment traction controls use. Not much good on turbo engines as it lets the turbo fall off boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30683-r32-link-or-remap/#findComment-629393
Share on other sites

save a dozen maps on your pc

give the bagging a rest, RIPS times are a recommendation for the stuff and ive seen 100's of cars run link with awesome results and no problems. objective debate might be better to base a decision on but is sometimes a little difficult for some

pm me jimih i can help you out with heaps of cars running it but a remap would be cheaper and just as effective as an aftermarket ecu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30683-r32-link-or-remap/#findComment-630526
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...