Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$700 f**k me dead! I thought they were on drugs when I bought one for about $300-$350 at Race and Rally speedsports in greenacre. I think they call themselves speedzone or some such these days. They used to be mainly a big sparco dealer. they were a sparco distributor but something happened a few years back and they stopped selling sparco gear all together which was weird to go from full on sparco dealer with big range to not even carrying anything. but it did mean they had one kick arse clearance sale with everything from seats to suits. they were great, used to be much cheaper than a certain bigger name race gear chain. and they were really nice guys too. I remember going there about 10 years ago as a young bloke without much of a clue and they even gave me a few bits and pieces I needed for nothing. lovely guys.

thank me for that touching story later.....

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Does anyone have a d1 quick release in an r33?

I was going to buy one when i buy a fixed seat .. they are both on just jap.

I feel that my wheel may be way to close to me with the d1 quick release, becaue my wheel is already fairly dishy. Im 70kg and about 6 feet tall so i have fairly long arms but also long legs. How much can i expect to have the wheel move towards me?

Also i've heard things about it stuffing up hicas & power steering, is this true?

Cheers

Brad

22171295376794690619604.jpg

Edited by beamstas
Does anyone have a d1 quick release in an r33?

I was going to buy one when i buy a fixed seat .. they are both on just jap.

I feel that my wheel may be way to close to me with the d1 quick release, becaue my wheel is already fairly dishy. Im 70kg and about 6 feet tall so i have fairly long arms but also long legs. How much can i expect to have the wheel move towards me?

Also i've heard things about it stuffing up hicas & power steering, is this true?

Cheers

Brad

22171295376794690619604.jpg

mine is a D1 that i purchased from jjr about 2 years back. It didnt stuff hicas or the power steering or anything else for that matter. The horn still works and there is no freeplay whatsoever. it moved the wheel about 50/60 mil closer to me.

$700 f**k me dead! I thought they were on drugs when I bought one for about $300-$350 at Race and Rally speedsports in greenacre. I think they call themselves speedzone or some such these days. They used to be mainly a big sparco dealer. they were a sparco distributor but something happened a few years back and they stopped selling sparco gear all together which was weird to go from full on sparco dealer with big range to not even carrying anything. but it did mean they had one kick arse clearance sale with everything from seats to suits. they were great, used to be much cheaper than a certain bigger name race gear chain. and they were really nice guys too. I remember going there about 10 years ago as a young bloke without much of a clue and they even gave me a few bits and pieces I needed for nothing. lovely guys.

thank me for that touching story later.....

I had a similar reaction :(

I would buy from them as I like the guys who work there and are always really helpful, and give me discounts without me asking for them, but not for double the odds... ouch.

Beamstas, well you still need a commonly available adaptor, the same as you'd use just to put an aftermarket wheel on. If that is your car pictured above you already have the adaptor.

If it's not your car and you have the rehiostat for the 4WS behind the wheel you need to ensure you get a suitable hub adaptor. The quick release boss simply bolts to this adaptor. From memory the D1 quick release is around 2.5 inches thick, so it will bring your wheel that much closer. In my 32 it made it perfect (I'm a close sitter), but in other vehicles such as the GT4 (and others without telescopic columns)I mentioned aerlier it can be a pain.

Edited by Marlin
Beamstas, well you still need a commonly available adaptor, the same as you'd use just to put an aftermarket wheel on. If that is your car pictured above you already have the adaptor.

If it's not your car and you have the rehiostat for the 4WS behind the wheel you need to ensure you get a suitable hub adaptor. The quick release boss simply bolts to this adaptor. From memory the D1 quick release is around 2.5 inches thick, so it will bring your wheel that much closer. In my 32 it made it perfect (I'm a close sitter), but in other vehicles such as the GT4 (and others without telescopic columns)I mentioned aerlier it can be a pain.

Cheers Marlin,

That's my car. So 2.5 inches the wheel will be towards me, might be a bit uncomfortable and yes you are right about it not having a telescopic column. Hmmmm Might need some wooden blocks under my shoes :)

Thanks for the info

Cheers

Brad

dane i have one of thoses jjr ones the d1s and it seem good you could come have a look and try if you like due to us not going to have the car ready for a few mounths if you like????

Hey Scott, thanks a lot for the offer mate. I think I'm going to just bite the bullet and grab one though after all these positive reviews.

But I must come down to take a look at your progress anyway!

  • 1 month later...
The ball bearing units tend to get sloppy really quickly

That is NOT the case with the genuine Works Bell Rapfix II Ball Lock Quick Release.

The genuine Works Bell Rapfix II Quick Releases are used by top teams in Japan including Team Orange, Team Hankook and Team DROO-P, and is also used on the JUN Evo X.

large1260.jpg

large1259.jpg

A genuine Works Bell Rapfix II Quick Release (shown above with a Works Bell Short Steering Boss to allow for the length of the quick release without moving the steering wheel too close to the driver, and an optional yellow Works Bell Flipper for JAF & N1 Racing Regulations) is also used on the Australian R35 GT-R featured in this article on GTRblog ...

http://www.gtrblog.com/2009/11/21/works-be...or-nissan-gt-r/

All genuine Works Bell Rapfix II Quick Releases are precision manufactured in Works Bell's factory in Nagano Japan, by a multi-step manufacturing process, using materials and manufacturing techniques specifically designed to provide excellent durability and very tight tolerances.

The genuine Works Bell Rapfix II is constructed from billet high strength A5056 alloy, heat treated to H34 standard, then cold die forged.

An Alumite oxide film is caused to form on the surface of the aluminium and stainless steel to produce a surface with superior corrosion and wear properties.

This produces a hard alumite oxide film, that is harder than steel. Alumite performs beautifully on the exterior while reducing any wear from use.

Works Bell invented the Ball Lock Quick Release Locking System as seen in the Works Bell Rapfix II. Works Bell also holds the patent on this system.

Works Bell has NOT licensed the design of the Rapfix II to any other manufacturers anywhere in the world.

PHOTO OF A WORN QUICK RELEASE THAT IS NOT A GENUINE WORKS BELL QUICK RELEASE

large275.jpg

Above is a photo taken at a Drift Australia event at Eastern Creek of a quick release that is NOT a genuine Works Bell product, which the detents that the balls lock onto had worn and elongated on.

If the detents elongate and wear on products that are NOT genuine Works Bell products, the quick release no longer locks properly to the part attached to the steering column with the correct tolerances, the tolerances are then wrong, and you end up with play in the steering.

With the genuine Works Bell Rapfix II specific materials and manufacturing techniques are used specifically designed to provide excellent durability and very tight tolerances.

SAFETY TESTING

In addition, The Works Bell Rapfix II meets the safety standards set by ASEA (Auto Sports & Special Equipment Association) which is the Japanese equivalent of SEMA.

Works Bell's products have been subjected to a number of safety tests, including the following:

- Material Hardness Test

- Material Tensile Test

- JASO C713 Static load bending test on steering wheel

- JASO C713 Static load torsion test on steering wheel

- JASO C713 Static load fatigue bending test on steering wheel

- JASO C713 Static load fatigue torsion test on steering wheel

Test methods for steering wheels including boss kits in Japan are defined by the public JASO standards and JIS Standards.

For the Rapfix, high impact tests beyond what is normally met during accidents are conducted.

So just like Rays Wheels developed their own safety standard for wheels that exceeds the normal Japanese standards, Works Bell test their products to standards above the Japanese safety standards requirements.

Here is a photo of one of the test rigs which was used to put huge loads into a Rapfix II during the safety testing ...

large318.jpg

And finite element analysis is also carried out ...

large316.jpg

There is an article titled "How To Select A Steering Quick Release & How The Genuine Works Bell Rapfix II quick release is made" which contains full info about how the Works Bell Rapfix II is manufactured, safety testing info, and a number of photos of the manufacturing process. Click here for the article ...

http://www.tunersgroup.com/How_To_Select_A...II_is_made.html

- Waenick Pty Ltd

Exclusive Australian Distributors for Works Bell

Edited by TheTunersGroup

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...