Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

somehow i doubt there is much you can do. there is a good chance that they bought it the way it is. unless you can prove that they were the ones who changed the cluster then i think you just have to live with it. but that is just the way it is with imports. you pretty much can't trust the odometer reading. however if the kms are really low and the car has been in the country for a few years then, depending on what state you are in, you can get a vehicle history check done and they will show you how many kms it had done the last time the rego was transfered. it's good if the vehicle has been owned by a few people (as each time the rego is transfered the kms are put into the system), but if someone has owned it since new, or since it had low kms on it then there isn't much you can do to tell if the kms are legit or not.

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my 92,000km r33 had the 100K service sticker on the timing belt cover when i bought it

knew it had been wound back but hell 99% of imports are going to be wound back

somehow i doubt there is much you can do. there is a good chance that they bought it the way it is. unless you can prove that they were the ones who changed the cluster then i think you just have to live with it. but that is just the way it is with imports. you pretty much can't trust the odometer reading. however if the kms are really low and the car has been in the country for a few years then, depending on what state you are in, you can get a vehicle history check done and they will show you how many kms it had done the last time the rego was transfered. it's good if the vehicle has been owned by a few people (as each time the rego is transfered the kms are put into the system), but if someone has owned it since new, or since it had low kms on it then there isn't much you can do to tell if the kms are legit or not.

As far as I know the car is a new import. I don't think it's been driven in Australia before. I bought it from a dealer in Melbourne

my 92,000km r33 had the 100K service sticker on the timing belt cover when i bought it

knew it had been wound back but hell 99% of imports are going to be wound back

By 60,000 kms? Is that normal?

simple , you can pretty much tell by the interior, underbody , plenum , timing belt cover , service stickers ,big one ****** brake disc groove , if the kms are correct - its pretty obvious if your not sure dont buy it . Most people buy and then realise what they should have been looking for afterwards

Edited by NISSAN GTR

it doesn't suprise me in the slightest. there is a real stigma about buy imports with over 100,000kms on them and everyone always tries to buy them with as low kms as possible, so there is probably a price difference in what the car could sell for of up to a few thousand dollars. it could've been changed for this reason, or it could've been changed simply because the old odometer broke. but the clock hasn't been wound back in the way that people used to do it. they simply would've bought another dash and stuck that in. take maybe 5 mins to do. i'd say it is more common with imports than any other cars.

simple , you can pretty much tell by the interior, underbody , plenum , timing belt cover , service stickers ,big one ****** brake disc groove , if the kms are correct - its pretty obvious if your not sure dont buy it . Most people buy and then realise what they should have been looking for afterwards

that isn't that correct. if the car did a lot of driving in hilly areas or even just in traffic then the brakes will be much more worn than someone mostly doing highway/freeway driving. or if they recently had new bads installed and had the discs machined then there will be no lip on the rotor either. or the car may not have done many kms and the driver gave it a hard time or was simply someone who left slowing down until the last minute or rode the brakes a lot yet babied the engine then the brakes will be a false indicator.

that isn't that correct. if the car did a lot of driving in hilly areas or even just in traffic then the brakes will be much more worn than someone mostly doing highway/freeway driving. or if they recently had new bads installed and had the discs machined then there will be no lip on the rotor either. or the car may not have done many kms and the driver gave it a hard time or was simply someone who left slowing down until the last minute or rode the brakes a lot yet babied the engine then the brakes will be a false indicator.

it is correct read it fully , its not all about brakes

Edited by NISSAN GTR
simple , you can pretty much tell by the interior, underbody , plenum , timing belt cover , service stickers ,big one ****** brake disc groove , if the kms are correct - its pretty obvious if your not sure dont buy it . Most people buy and then realise what they should have been looking for afterwards

nah everything can be changed or cleaned. seats, service sticker, brake discs can all be changed, brake discs are machined anyway so you can't tell just by that.

Timing belt cover????? Steering wheel gear knob, they cost about $20 2nd hand over there at the wreckers.

Underbody can't tell you anything and plenum can't either. especially if the car was once modded and is now back to standard to pass sevs or whatever the import rule is called now.

Most important is how the car feels and drives, numbers on the cluster don't mean anything, a 30 000km genuwine milaage engine can fail, and 200 000km engines could go the whole time wihout probs. Check the colour of the oil if you can, if its black then it hasn't been looked after at all, turbo cars shouldn't let the oil turn brown let alone black. At the end of the day if you don't want to buy a car with wound back km's, stop being a tight ass and buy new, other than that buyer beware

simple , you can pretty much tell by the interior, underbody , plenum , timing belt cover , service stickers ,big one ****** brake disc groove , if the kms are correct - its pretty obvious if your not sure dont buy it . Most people buy and then realise what they should have been looking for afterwards

I think I can see what you're saying!

Your answer seems to answer the following Q which is...

On looking over a car with supposedly low Kms, what is it that's telling you this car has done more than that??? :)

what is this utter BULLSHIT about the oil not meant to turn black?

if it's doing it's f**king job and cleaning as well as lubricating the engine of course it's going to turn black you daft c unt, easy to see that you've never serviced any of your own cars.

generally interior is a giveaway cause most people are lazy flamin mongrels.

Don't go by the amount of dirt and shit on the engine, a mate bought a HR31 Passage that had the filthiest engine bay I'd ever seen, yet everything else about the car pointed to it having genuine kays.

what is this utter BULLSHIT about the oil not meant to turn black?

if it's doing it's f**king job and cleaning as well as lubricating the engine of course it's going to turn black you daft c unt, easy to see that you've never serviced any of your own cars.

generally interior is a giveaway cause most people are lazy flamin mongrels.

Don't go by the amount of dirt and shit on the engine, a mate bought a HR31 Passage that had the filthiest engine bay I'd ever seen, yet everything else about the car pointed to it having genuine kays.

r33 gtst oil is meant to be dropped every before 5000km mate, i dont know what condition your engines in, but a fresh one like mine will not turn black in 5000km of road driving. and whats with the swareing? grow up mate, I see you don't change your oil as often as it should, (note to self, not to buy your engine if you have to sell it for some reason).

Ignore what bozo said, if the oil is black as midnight its a great indication the previous owner didn't bother maintaining the car. Also check for oil under the radiator cap, if you see that steer away from that buy. Remeber a carolla can run on the same oil for 15000km with no probs, do that on an RB turbo and kiss your cars reliability goodbye, its simple but whats more important than milage is maintenance.

Theres a reason why exotic cars with high milage but have perfect service history fetch a higher price than the same car with lower milage and no history, high performance engines do not last long if they are not maintained properly, an RB stands for Race Bred, they rev fairly high, they burn the oil quite easily. Fresh looking yellow oil can still be burnt after a hard day at the track, the oil doesn't even have to change colour for it to need a change, so forget it when its black...

r33 gtst oil is meant to be dropped every before 5000km mate, i dont know what condition your engines in, but a fresh one like mine will not turn black in 5000km of road driving. and whats with the swareing? grow up mate, I see you don't change your oil as often as it should, (note to self, not to buy your engine if you have to sell it for some reason).

Ignore what bozo said, if the oil is black as midnight its a great indication the previous owner didn't bother maintaining the car. Also check for oil under the radiator cap, if you see that steer away from that buy. Remeber a carolla can run on the same oil for 15000km with no probs, do that on an RB turbo and kiss your cars reliability goodbye, its simple but whats more important than milage is maintenance.

Theres a reason why exotic cars with high milage but have perfect service history fetch a higher price than the same car with lower milage and no history, high performance engines do not last long if they are not maintained properly, an RB stands for Race Bred, they rev fairly high, they burn the oil quite easily. Fresh looking yellow oil can still be burnt after a hard day at the track, the oil doesn't even have to change colour for it to need a change, so forget it when its black...

every car i have ever owned or seen, including my mothers corolla which she bought brand new will turn the oil black once the engine is run in. sure a brand new engine that has had the oil changed once or twice might still have ok coloured oil after 5000kms, but you will find that once it is past that it will turn the oil black. all engines do it. it is a fact of life. if you go and check a car and the oil is still golden then it means that the oil is fresh, not that the engine is in super great condition.

ha ha, Annas engine is 10,000km old and still turns the oil blackish and thats well before 5000km. If i pulled the sump and it was still golden it would be concerned...because that would be fkn wierd! lol

all this km guessing is pointless. unless you have an obvious indicator, like service sticker, log books, etc.

best bet is to assume the kms on any low km import are false, and then judge the car on its condition.

this way, you wont be swayed by false kms, and you wont be dissapointed later down the track. and hey, if the kms are true, woooties for you.

coz a 62,000km 15 yr old taxi is just not plausible. and in most of these cases, it will be a false reading.

I have 2 cars that get serviced every 5000km maximum, and one car that gets serviced every 1000km, none of them turn black in that time, they all only reach a brown at the worst in that time.

I only use elf synthetics for the two 5000km cars, and use Shell for the 1000km car purely because thats what the manufacturer recomends and because the shell was developed purely for this car.

I don't think I have made my point come across too well seeing as I was writing early in the morning, anyway if you pour the oil into a basin of some sort the oil will look midnight black, if you are just checking it on a white cloth you will see the oil will still be brown with quite abit of yellow still visible, you can not check the car's oil in an inspection by dumping it all into a basin, you can only check it from the dip stick. If you check it and it is pure black on the cloth that is unusually black, there are different grades of brown and black in oil colour.

The day I buy a faulty engine using my techniques of looking for a decent car is the day i'll admit i'm wrong, but after driving the line for 50 000km with only having to perform a clutch change and the coils, and the fact that Yavus from Unigroup car tuners did my last service (100 000km major service) and dynoed it saying it is "the freshest r33 engine he has ever seen" with the dyno results of now 194.4rwkw with only a turbo back exhaust, pod filter, 10psi boost on standard turbo and a fmic running on a standard ecu. last dyno day most of the r33's were getting 180rwkw and under with the ssme mods. The dyno day before it had a catback and pod only and it hit 160rwkw where everyone else was getting between 125-145 for stock or catback exhaust.

I do most of my work on the skyline myself, most of the time it ever needs oil and filter, I have grown up with cars, I have worked on a vast more range of cars then probably most of you guys have from Kia-Ferrari, I have lived with 2 and 4 stroke bikes since a kid and I have studied allot into how oils work and learn't things for myself that no one else has ever realised. Look into your own cars more closely next time and you will eventually come around and say "that prick was right".

That's actually a myth, propogated by people like you.

so instead of telling us its a myth, and only you have said otherwise even though allot of people in the know haven't said anything about that statement, what does it mean? Enlighten us.

Every week there is someone on here saying it stands for Race Bred, no one has said what it actually stands for nd no one has contested it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...