Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Changed the stock turbo on my rb20 yesterday for a s2 rb25 one and it wont make any boost at all.

Drives fine off boost and as soon as you get into positive pressure its shudders really bad and wont go past 0.

Car is also Idling abit high (intercooler piping leak?) but this shouldnt cause it to not build boost?

Any help would be muchly appreciated!

Did you leave a rag in the intercooler pipe work???

It's allright... everyone dose it.

No rags in the piping lol. Any other ideas of what It could be?

What about the nipple for the actuator? I drilled and tapped it into the elbow this should be fine yeah?

Not really looking forward to pulling It all apart again lol :)

by any chance you did spin the shaft and stuff making sure both sides of it spin right lol, like u havent shit an exhaust wheel without knowing it have you haha

other than that look for big leaks, but somehow i doubt it.. based on the offboost drivability i mean

Car is also Idling abit high (intercooler piping leak?) but this shouldnt cause it to not build boost?

Are you saying that you suspect an intercooler pipe leak, but that an intercooler pipe leak wont stop the car building boost? Because it will - the boost will leak out!

Are you getting black smoke out the back? If you have a boost leak it will run very rich and you'll get black smoke. Perhaps so rich that missfires/shudders.

If its not a boost leak check that the wastegate isnt stuck open (you should be able to move the actuator rod with your hand, or just apply 10psi air pressure to it and watch it move). But i dont think your symptoms match a stuck wastegate.

Are you saying that you suspect an intercooler pipe leak, but that an intercooler pipe leak wont stop the car building boost? Because it will - the boost will leak out!

Are you getting black smoke out the back? If you have a boost leak it will run very rich and you'll get black smoke. Perhaps so rich that missfires/shudders.

If its not a boost leak check that the wastegate isnt stuck open (you should be able to move the actuator rod with your hand, or just apply 10psi air pressure to it and watch it move). But i dont think your symptoms match a stuck wastegate.

Thanks for the help MrKotter, I did get abit of black smoke out the exhaust when I first started it and it did feel like it was missfiring but really violently much more so than when my coilpacks died.

And I cant seem to move the actuator rod at all but the flap is closed not open?

Thanks again for your help mate!

Oh and also to everyone else, yes the exhaust wheel is still there and spins freely

Thanks for the help MrKotter, I did get abit of black smoke out the exhaust when I first started it and it did feel like it was missfiring but really violently much more so than when my coilpacks died.

And I cant seem to move the actuator rod at all but the flap is closed not open?

It will be very stuff to move by hand, maybe too stiff. And the actuator pushes on it to open the WG, so you need to try to move it in the same direction. But yeah, its almost certainly not stuck open if you're using the stock dump, and if it was you probably wouldnt be able to move it by hand anyway......so keep looking for the leak. Are you sure your new boost nipple is airtight?

Thanks for the help MrKotter, I did get abit of black smoke out the exhaust when I first started it and it did feel like it was missfiring but really violently much more so than when my coilpacks died.

A boost leak is a much more violent miss fire and cut, as the car is reading that it has 3 times as much air going in as really is, so it throws in 3 times as much fuel as needed, affectively flooding the motor.

A boost leak is a much more violent miss fire and cut, as the car is reading that it has 3 times as much air going in as really is, so it throws in 3 times as much fuel as needed, affectively flooding the motor.

Cheers guys, looks like I'm definately looking for a boost leak then, thanks for the help everyone.

Will report back once fixed.

Hi Guys,

So I took everything apart and put it all back together again, started her up and she seemed fine idle better than last time and much lower too (bout 900).

took it for a drive up the street and when I stopped at the intersection and put it in neutral the car revved by it self upto about 5-6k almost like the throttle was stuck open?

popped bonnet and checked throttle cable and it seemed to be fine, so I started it back up again and managed to put it into gear and it stopped freerevving and I babied it home.

WTF is going on? more boost leaks? didnt get it up to temp so I havent tried to get boost yet.

Thanks guys, this is driving me crazy :)

edit: Just started it up again in the garage and its idling really high again, whats the best way to find the boost leak? soapy water around the silicon bends?

Edited by Jden

Manifold leaking? The problem is after the throttle body I would say, a gasket probably need to be replaced. You can try spraying around the area with carb cleaner to find the leak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...