Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The ecu controls the throttle, that is definitely traction control. I wish I could rip mad skids like the rb guys. :(

Your tyres aren't worn differently or the pressures different? Do you have a spare set of wheels you could try? Could be diff windup.

The ecu controls the throttle, that is definitely traction control. I wish I could rip mad skids like the rb guys. :(

Your tyres aren't worn differently or the pressures different? Do you have a spare set of wheels you could try? Could be diff windup.

:)

You bloody do mate!

it did it on the other wheels too (the other stock wheels :D) yeah i guess there is THAT traction control which we all hate :(

same tyre pressures! i cleaned - well, sprayed the TPS - today so ill see how it goes on the way to work tomorrow.

  • 4 weeks later...

ive never experienced any vibration in mine as the 4wd motor is f@$ked and the 4wd light has been on since day one.

so there is a good chance what you are experiencing is transfer or front diff related.

apparently there is something inside the torque converter that can cause a vibration when its worn out. commodores and other such cars suffer it a lot im told.

im HOPING to take it to be fixed either this week or next

Dominator had never seen a converter like mine before, ther wanted $1500 to make me a replacement high stall. I hope you are taking it to a professional Iain.

apparently there is something inside the torque converter that can cause a vibration when its worn out. commodores and other such cars suffer it a lot im told.

im HOPING to take it to be fixed either this week or next

im taking it to the dealer where it came from (for warranty) and they are taking it to an auto transmission place. the guy at the trans place sounded like he knew what he was on about so i dont feel worried taking it there.

Dominator had never seen a converter like mine before, ther wanted $1500 to make me a replacement high stall. I hope you are taking it to a professional Iain.

Isn't it basically the same as the 350Z auto, with a transfer case stuck on the end? Or maybe even more similar to the Model Year 2000 odd Pathfinder, as their 4wd is ATTESA like ours..

I guess not too many 350's putting out that many ponies run the auto box. The valve body had to be imported too, although I have heard they are available here now.

The issue was they were just built too lightweight so cant be machined out at all to open the vanes. How much are they covering Iain? You putting a shift kit in while you are there?

no idea as yet, i have to speak to the boss man. and he doesnt like paying for things.

this was originally diagnosed within the 3 month warranty before the extended warranty. they just never fixed it for the 4 times they 'fixed' it.

so ill fight to the death with this one.

shift kit? no. at this stage i just want the car fixed. i can do the shift kit later. i dont want to complicate things further

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...