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Damo's R32 Gts-r, On Going Project Fun Car. History And Use Full Info


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yeah the AGY car is pretty fantacular. I have loved it for years and it keeps getting better. they built the gearbox in my R32 and it's amazing. they do some cool shit there.

agreed that a 4 inch pipe squashed is probably the easiest solution but it's still likely to get nailed every now and then. adding some kind of slip joint or spring joint (they look kind of like wiggans clamps but for exhaust) might help a bit, even just a regular flex joint will help.

have you seen this car run Baron?

i think i have come up with a "different" solution that mite be somthing new. every one likes to see somthing new and different and ive got the opertunity to do it so i will see how i go.

hopefully ill have some pics up by the end of the weekend.

ok so friday night i got into the wiring. ive been planning a few different things for it but havent had time to make a start.

i wanted to run the engine loom throught the fire wall just behind the engine to A} hide some of the wiring and B} remove the loom from the heat of the dump pipe.

so with the correct hole saw i made a hole to fit the standard nissan grommet.

14012011633-1.jpg

with a bit of modding to the loom i was able to seperate the wiper wiring and the main power loom that runs around the passenger strut tower whick ment i could just run the engine loom out.

14012011634.jpg

i then proceded to strip down the loom that goes across the radiator suport pannel. ive stripped it down so there is only the basic lighting going across to the passenger side headlight. ive also stripped out the un used relays out of the factory fuse box which i was going to remove and replace with a much smaller fuse holder. i have since decided to keep the factory one as it will end up being neater for the time being.

15012011635.jpg

ive only got one pic of the exhaust so far and thats just of the pice of flex pipe ive put in. im not sure how well it will work yet but the plan is to brace all the dump pipe to the gearbx and solid mount the side pipe so i wanted some where to flex between the to.

14012011632-1.jpg

ive reached a point of no return with the side pipe last night as i had to cut a lot of stuff i didnt want to. if the cage wasnt in the way and i didnt still want to run a passenger seat than it would be so much easier. im not to sure if a seat will still fit or not. but some ruff measurments take last night it should.

ok so i got cracking on the exhaust over the weekend.

i read an intersting thread on here about lobster back style piping and read that 6deg is the maximum that a cut should be made to give the best result. im only an amature hack at this stuf but i did build a dump pipe for a 1jz (no shit) in a creseda that required a lot of lobster backing.

anywa i got cracking and cut out a few then worked out how many i mite need.

DSC03879.jpg

while i was on a role i cut some for the screamer pipe and made that

DSC03878.jpg

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i then finished off the flex part of the exhaust. i had made the dump pipe before christmas but haddent finished so didnt put any pics up. its 3" then steps into 3 1/2.

DSC03893.jpg

i then cut another hole in the floor for the side pipe to come across. this also shows the end of the dump/front pipe. im using 3 bolt flanges as they dont tend to spread and leak.

DSC03892.jpg

i then decided where to put some exit holes for the pipe.

this looks like a good spot.

DSC03888.jpg

i chose this spot as its only a single skin on the inside and outside. inner skin cut out to make room

DSC03889.jpg

i seem to be missing a pic of what happened next but my good mate chad who never does anything by half could hardly bare to watch as i attacked with a hole saw. my mate unless everything is drawn out and there is no chance of fail, will have nothing to do with any of my projects. so he sat in a directors chair and offered a few bits of advice as i hacked away.

i only had a finshed result idea in my head how to do this to i kept cutting till i had to start making somthing. this is what the outside should look like as such.

DSC03894.jpg

twin 3" pipes cut at around a 40deg angle.

i wont show any outside shots untill its finished as im hoping to hide a few mistakes expected along the way. but i will show some of the cool lobster back work on the inside.

first off thoe was the major headach of getting twin 3" past the roll cage. in the end there was no other option but to notch a bit out of one of the pipes. i spent literay hours getting these 2 pipes to fit throught the outside hole thne sit just right inside but there was just not enough room for them both.

DSC03900.jpg

then i realised that there was no way in hell they would come out once welded together so the decision was made to make the notched pipe removable frome the rest of the system so i build this setup.

DSC03903.jpg

im pretty stoked with it sofar. you may notice that im using some second hand stainless. thats because im a budget racer and like to salvage stuff. its no show car.

some people may also wonder what i am going to do inside. i plan to make a alloy cover for it with some heat sheild on the inside to stop heat.

the reason why they drop down to floor height so quick is so that i can still fit a passenger seat. i dont have a very good picture of where the pipes are running but i will put one up later.

there is no more pics of the inside part as i havent made it yet. basicly ive built a house with a slab. then added a roof and then ill fill in the middle later. (ive actualy seen this done before. its not imposible)

so its an exercise to do somthing a bit different and sofar its been fun. thanks for reading

nice mate. I like it. should be cams legit too being that to the best of my memory their main rule is that the exhaust "must exit reward of the last opening door" and yours will comply with that. the passenger seat will be nice and warm on those frosty tasmanian winter days..... lol. i remember doing passenger laps in a mates car with twin 2835 high mounts and about 500kw, it had all the pipes tucked up very, very close to the floor. it melted my shoes to the floor... bastard. burnt my feet nicely too. after 2 laps it was me tyring to sit there with me feet a few inches off the floor.

the 3 bolt flanges are good too. as you know much better than generic shithouse 2 bolt jobs. they are built to leak. even better would be v-bands but I can see when you're on a budget they get expensive quick.

speedhuters has found a car with a very similar idea to mine

http://ll.speedhunters.com/u/f/eagames/NFS/speedhunters.com/Images/2010%20Jacco/Car%20Features/KE70%20Volvo/bild053.jpg

the whole article on a 2 door ke70 carolla with a volvo motor is here

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/01/20/car-spotlight-gt-gt-volvo-powered-ke70.aspx

if you dont check out speed hunters very often i find them a grate source for tuff looking time attack cars. they also follow some cool racing teams like the sumo power FIA GT2 car (r35 skyline) and a cool BMW team.

more updates after the weekend.

Under the car, into the cabin behind the passenger seat, out through the rear guard behind the passenger door... Just build a box/heat shield over it in the cabin.

J.

Woohoooo... I came up with an idea that works? ha ha ha

Looks awsome Damo.. I'd say your the only liner owner I know who has the balls to cut a perfectly good r32 in to pieces.

Cheers

Justin

Woohoooo... I came up with an idea that works? ha ha ha

Looks awsome Damo.. I'd say your the only liner owner I know who has the balls to cut a perfectly good r32 in to pieces.

Cheers

Justin

dam it now i have to give you all the credit. grate idea by the way.

oh and my 4" hates nissans

dam it now i have to give you all the credit. grate idea by the way.

oh and my 4" hates nissans

... No credit due here. I'm not the one cutting his car up- I just couldn't bring myself to take a 4" hole saw to a rear guard.

Are you going to make up a cf exhaust flame shield for the exit on the guard? Hide any rough edges too..

Top effort!

J.

yea some sort of heat flame gard will be made. Mainly to cover up the hole. Not sure if it will be carbon alloy or ss yet. I like the alloy or ss option because they stand out a bit but carbon is super cool

yea some sort of heat flame gard will be made. Mainly to cover up the hole. Not sure if it will be carbon alloy or ss yet. I like the alloy or ss option because they stand out a bit but carbon is super cool

Rivit it on with ss rivits... Cf pannel, raied around the outlests and in the shape of a flame.

Ha ha, or you could weld a couple of truck flaps on the ends...

fkn briliant either way....

Rivit it on with ss rivits... Cf pannel, raied around the outlests and in the shape of a flame.

Ha ha, or you could weld a couple of truck flaps on the ends...

fkn briliant either way....

Ha ha... I havn't been on speedhunters for a while. Check this out:

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/01/20/car-spotlight-gt-gt-volvo-powered-ke70.aspx

Doh!

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