Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Due to me forgetting my password and changing my email address I have had to re register under grean machine and rather than start this thread again i will update it using my current name. Hope that’s in order.

So an update with apologies for the poor quality pics but they were taken on my phone

The new suspension is on

.

IMG_0727.jpg

The exhaust is fitted and sounds remarkably sporty

A few more parts have been sourced ..........

A mint dashboard with good vents out no bubbles

073.jpg

dash removed (not as hard as I expected)

086.jpg

and new one in

IMG_1237-1.jpg

Original wheels and brakes are now on. Only issue was the rear calipers had been p[ainted silver . Luckily this had been done badly so all the paint came off easily with nitromors and just left the original satin black finish.

Also a had a major find and probably my favourite one.........an original japanese 32 GTR sales brochure in mint condition

IMG_1246-1.jpg

IMG_1244.jpg

I have also found a set of original mats in as near to perfect condition as I could hope for.

Nearly all the silly little bits have been sorted - pedal rubbers and a few internal clips and trims

I did find an original radio but it has the plastic covers missing so am on the hunt for a better one

Also need to find the right fasteners for the wind deflectors - they are on and fit but are not fixed well enough to drive the car yet. I may be better off going to Nissan that is if they still do them ?

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Due to me forgetting my password and changing my email address I have had to re register under grean machine and rather than start this thread again i will update it using my current name. Hope that’s in order.

So an update with apologies for the poor quality pics but they were taken on my phone

The new suspension is on

.

IMG_0727.jpg

The exhaust is fitted and sounds remarkably sporty

A few more parts have been sourced ..........

A mint dashboard with good vents out no bubbles

073.jpg

dash removed (not as hard as I expected)

086.jpg

and new one in

IMG_1237-1.jpg

Original wheels and brakes are now on. Only issue was the rear calipers had been p[ainted silver . Luckily this had been done badly so all the paint came off easily with nitromors and just left the original satin black finish.

Also a had a major find and probably my favourite one.........an original japanese 32 GTR sales brochure in mint condition

IMG_1246-1.jpg

IMG_1244.jpg

I have also found a set of original mats in as near to perfect condition as I could hope for.

Nearly all the silly little bits have been sorted - pedal rubbers and a few internal clips and trims

I did find an original radio but it has the plastic covers missing so am on the hunt for a better one

Also need to find the right fasteners for the wind deflectors - they are on and fit but are not fixed well enough to drive the car yet. I may be better off going to Nissan that is if they still do them ?

pretty sure you can buy the head unit fascia from nissan quite cheap mate.

  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Well after a very lomg time the car is finished :yes:

A few pictures

gtr1.jpg

gtr4.jpg

gtr3.jpg

gtr2.jpg

the refurbed splitter - all my own work was previously really badly scatched

gtr7.jpg

gtr10.jpg

gtr6.jpg

gtr5.jpg

The colour is weird unlike mosts pearlescents it doesnt flip along one side - the whole car seems to look different colours in different lights ...Today was a blue day

I don't think the colour is factory colour? Correct me if I'm wrong. And I'd ditch that red strut brace too. It all be interesting to know how a 100% stock r32 gtr feels like with boost restrictor and ceramic T28s. Good work though! :)

Did you even read the thread?

Sure did. Just saying I though the colour wasn't factory. But I just researched it and there is a factory option in this colour. Just a little weird seeing the engine bay is in a completely different colour haha.

Edited by G0Z1LLAAAAA34

Did you even read the thread?

Thanks - saved me saying it.

So to confirm the idea was to restore it to factory spec - thats why the strut brace is red

No 32GTRs were painted with the same paint finish under the bonnet a lot had a different colour under the bonnett and the ones that were the "same" were a matt finish so looked out of place just as much.

All mentioned in the thread ...............

Thanks - saved me saying it. So to confirm the idea was to restore it to factory spec - thats why the strut brace is red No 32GTRs were painted with the same paint finish under the bonnet a lot had a different colour under the bonnett and the ones that were the "same" were a matt finish so looked out of place just as much. All mentioned in the thread ...............

Oh really? I really didn't know that after having 3 R32 GTRs myself.. It is fair if the engine bay colour is close to the panel colour however OP's r32 has a completely different colour in the engine bay. Almost looks like it was a silver car to start with but resprayed the exterior to that blue if you get me... Here is a photo of my red metallic r32 gtr engine bay...

266350_10151075166106121_1318281766_o.jpg

Edited by G0Z1LLAAAAA34

Great thread.

I took a similar approach with my current R34 GTR.

Instead of making her faster I have also been focused more so on making her as close to perfect and original as possible.

Love your work.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

do you thread crap and post pics of your car in peoples project threads for any particular reason ?

I'm not trying to be a dick or anything, But I don't understand why you get offended by anything that is a little negative. I was there to just express my opinion based on my knowledge in GTRs since this is called a forum? However no 1 is always right so that includes me too so hey prove me wrong if that's the case and I will appreciate it.

In regards to the photo of my car, I just thought I'd post something relative to back up my opinion on engine bay colours. And thanks to the guy for picking on that piece of wood on the battery as I never said my car was "factory spec"... We all love cars and I think it is good to hear both positive and negative comments.

Edited by G0Z1LLAAAAA34
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
    • Temp = -21.052 X Voltage + 114   That should get you pretty close. Calcs based on two points I could do easy calcs on (30 and 70 degrees).   It also says your sensor should only read as low as 9 degrees when it maxes out at 5V, and should hit a peak of 114 degrees at 0V... Just as a heads up if you were going really cold places, or wanting to be aware when temps really go up with it.
×
×
  • Create New...