Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone has a say on the Return Flow type FMIC that are popping up all over the place?

I have been searching around for a decent sized FMIC without going over the top and these have caught my eye due to the fact of no need to cut my REO bar or any other nasty holes in my baby.

Only problems I can see with them at a glance is the fact the return pipe sits VERY low and that nasty bend they often have towards the end of the return pipe. And possibly the sharp change of direction for the air to have to go back towards the turbo.

Just incase I didnt explain it well enough heres a pic of the kit im interested in.

4394306921_1bfd1b69e4_o.jpg

Anyone got some more info on these?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If you 're worried about how much power you can achieve, you shouldn't be.

My car made 250rwkw with one of these, plus, it has excellent response - meaning that the curvature of the return pipe still allows the air to achieve a smooth flow. The one in the pic is a blitz so it should be fairly efficient.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110147
Share on other sites

i have one of these...

you will probably have to trim your reo a bit, but it's a small price to pay for not having to attack your inner guard with a hole saw!

also re the height clearance, the core is smaller than the usual aftermarket coolers out there, so it doesn't sit ridiculously low (there are only a few light scuffs on mine, in contrast to my mashed up front bar)

do recommend something like this :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110151
Share on other sites

Not worried about power since I know that beautiful Blitz would flow more than what a RB20 would ever make, just trying to find out info about them from anyone who has one.

Response is all Im after at the end of the day, and Im leaning towards the Blitz ATM due to the fact its only $780 and its Blitz so you know its quality. Or a HPI kit of the same style.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110155
Share on other sites

i currently have a black Blitz return flow on my R33, makes an easy 255rwkw, with the cooler having plenty more left in it. A few people have said they pushed 300rwkw through good quality return flow coolers.

As you said Blitz generally make good stuff, so buy it and enjoy it!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110232
Share on other sites

Thanks heaps for all the replies guys, just the sort of feed back I was looking for.

Also for the ARC side mount, what sort of power would they be able to handle and not really hit its limits? Trying too make sure all the supporting mods are capable of handling much more than what I want to get out of the engine.

Chasing around 300rwhp with as much response as possible.

EDIT - Holy hell just had a quick search for the ARC SMIC for a HCR32 just under $1200, think I'll be sticking with the Blitz at a much more pocket friendly $780

Edited by R32 DORI DORI
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110405
Share on other sites

I bought a blitz cs kit and even though i not the most mechanicly minded i still could fit it. I did have to take a fair bit off the stock bumper as you could see. ( better than chopping your chasis though )

Edited by Kenna802
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110854
Share on other sites

yes you have to trim the reo to fit the Blitz LM/CS.

And no, the return pipe doesn't sit low. Mine is higher than the factory lip.

And, the flow actually goes through the bottom pipe 1st and then swings into the FMIC :down: Not the other way around. (not that it matters.. just saying :P )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110944
Share on other sites

I bought a blitz cs kit and even though i not the most mechanicly minded i still could fit it. I did have to take a fair bit off the stock bumper as you could see. ( better than chopping your chasis though )

Would rather shave the front bar than anthing else. Looks really nice though, pretty much what im looking for, even though the FMIC will be blacked out before it goes in <3 Sleepers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110954
Share on other sites

I always thought about blacking my Blitz out too.. im scared, if i dont like it its kinda hard to go back again..

Whats the saying? 'once you go black you never go back' lol

Im not worried about going back, Black R32 on Black rims. Keeping as low profile in the crowd as possible, not that the Bright red stove tops dont give it away every single time at night.

Plus what it more sexy than a blacked out skyline?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110967
Share on other sites

ARC is expensive because it is high quality japan made

not paying out blitz but yeah ARC make good products

For the power Im chasing I doubt I would see any difference between ARC or Blitz, or even a cheap Cooling Pro FMIC at these levels.

ARC do make brillant products but they are still very pricey, not too fond of paying big just for a name...other than the ARC Airbox. More than happy to fork out the 400 bucks for one of them.

On a side note, anyone know off hand if QLD comes under the same sort of rulings for intake mods as Vic? currently have a pod filter with a custom heat sheild made up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310124-return-flow/#findComment-5110974
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...