Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a R33 S1 GTST with red badges.

I thought that the red ment turbo and the blue was N/A maybe it is, GTS4 are N/A so that is why they have blue badges. I'm sure Nissan never released a turbo GTS4 because it would compete to much with the GTR. ?

The 32's were the only turbo GTS4 that came out the 33 was n/a

gotta love that turbo aWD power and by the way trust me i went up against me mates 32 GTR and for about 2secs we were neck and neck and then goodnight for me so the 32 GTS4 is no comparison to the GTR

just my 2c

The Prince Skyline in 1964 before merging with Nissan was developed for races, they mass produced two cars in the S54 series that was modeled after the cars they developed for race use.

Both cars got a 1988cc SOHC inline-6 engine however the GT-A got a single carburetor and 105hp. The GT-B (More commonly known as the Classic 2000GT) got a 5-speed close ratio gearbox, full instrumentation, a limited slip differential, power brakes, a 99 liter fuel tank and a high compression version of the G7 with triple 40DCOE-18 Weber carburetors and 125hp.

But they both looked very similar, so how did Prince set them apart... yup... badges.

When the time came to pick which car Prince would send to represent it in the GT cicuits, the GT-B was picked, so it got the Red GT badge (as with any car that is built as the minimum 500 sold to public to qualify entry into a GT racing class). The GT-A in itself was an impressive machine and while lower spec than a GT-B pretty powerful in its own right. To show its heritage and its racing association, it got a Blue GT badge.

So now you know where the Skylines red and blue badges originate from.

I was told that any car in the Skyline range after that series that is built as a sports car (like the GT-B) recieves a red badge, and any car built for general use (such as a 4 door or a N/A) recieves a blue GT badge, keeping with the tradition from 1964.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...