Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

20's rev higher than 25's, so they both have thier up's and down's

so say you hit full boost @ 3500 in a 25 and rev it out to 7000, that's pretty much the same as hitting full boost in a 20 @ 4500 and revving it out to 8000

i was thinking, how awesome would a 32taxi look with a GTR front

dumped on EQUIPS.. or advan Rs's

edit: where the f**k did i pull challenger from? 0.o

Edited by GTR-boy
my mate bought one... flash tune etc etc had a lil over 200 @ all 4's

he was bored with it in like 5 mins

i enjoy mine.... just want my new wheels farken :down:

Rb20's pull ?? Lol. I've driven a rb20 with a bigger turbo. Can make a cup of coffee before it spools. Worst engine in a skyline :cool: but it's strong

mine was actually pretty responsive with 225kw considering the size of turbo etc

just needs to be setup and tuned right

oh i see...

barley see any nice r32 sedans around..nicks was the nicest

in Adelaide now so we will never see it again :P

definately one of the best...

:rolleyes: i do miss it

aight. Thermo-fan controller is wired in! Wiring a bit ghetto but should last me through Saturday's drag day so I can fix it up during Sunday. Just need to program the correct temperature signals and we good to go!

It cooled from 92 degrees to 80degrees in 8 seconds whilst standing still O_o

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
    • So....knowing that I have a problem with power steering temps on track and another Wakefield day booked in next Friday, I've done the obvious thing They are very reasonably priced at $1650, considering they are a big monotube shock, double height adjustable (don't have to change pre-load to change ride height), one way adjustable damping and standard sized and customisable springs if you want something other than what comes with them. They come with 9kg/mm front and 4.5kg/mm front and I went with that as a starting point because I'll add adjustable sway bars too https://justjap.com/products/bc-racing-coilover-kit-ds-ds-infiniti-q50-v37-14-current#description Unfortunately they didn't come with rear strut tops so I've re-used the factory ones which was a bit of a pain. Also, the adjuster for the rear shock will be an absolute nightmare to get at, and while there are extensions in the kit I can't see any way you can actually attach or use them
    • I also had 2 bulbs blow at once, years ago in the stagea. made for a fun drive home. The issue was the voltage regulator had failed in the alternator and it was giving 15+ volts. Really, I was lucky all that was fried were the headlight bulbs. So, I'd suggest you check the voltage across your battery terminals with the car running and warmed up. Yes, you will need a multimeter to do so, sorry.
    • Good work to think to check that, and thanks for coming back to post up the outcome.
×
×
  • Create New...