Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rear guards are already rolled. Wouldn't they need to be flared though? My fronts hit the guard like a mofo and they're only sticking out 6mm.

15mm spacers in the rear would mean 10+mm out of the guard.

get the 10mm spacers then. you should be able to flex the metal 5mm pretty easily. I got an extra 10mm out of my ceffy when I rolled it. Didn't need a respray.

just sell the wheels and start again if it's all too hard for you.

also helps if you stretch tyres. I tucked a 10.5" with 225's on the back of the cef. no way that would fit without stretched tyres.

your tyres are probably scraping on the front cos you're probably running Pat spec tyres.

47455_430007199299_618369299_5037820_5212260_n.jpg

nice... I don't see any hub locating rings on those wheels either. And you wanted to run 5mm spacers? oh dear.

46890_426792349299_618369299_4970314_4885725_n.jpg

notice rim isn't even visible cos the tyre's too big? if your wheel is tucked this is how it should be, but if your wheel is mexican then you need to stretch at the bare minimum to prevent it getting cut up every time you hit a bump.

compare this to mine:

3411414688_efc6a4ab30_b.jpg

see what you need to do if you're running flush or slightly pokey wheels?

Hmm... So fronts would be better with like a 205 yeah? And a bit of negative camber? Would that affect handling?

depends. if you like drag races only then it's bad. if you like cornering then it's good. if you like tyre longevity then GTFO.

more pressing issue would be to get some hub locating rings on those wheels. atm the only thing holding them in place are your lugs.

haha yeah, that's the other thing - if you go hub centric spacers then hole in the spacer need to match the hubs and the ring on the spacers need to match the wheels - or run hub rings as well as spacers

But did the rings match your hubs or your rims?

I bought ones to suit an MR2. So I guess?? 60.1 is the number I was told to order.

I really have no idea what I'm talking about, as you can guess.

Edited by jezza boii
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...