Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Euros are more exxy, but that's because of tarded australian dealers.

this.... is why i said:

(when you buy them over here)

;)

it's all just marketing.... if mercs were as expensive as mercedes aust told you i'm sure they wouldn't be used for every taxi in germany... they are just commo's for the jerrys

how many nissans can do 250K+ and still drive like new without engine rebuilds?

lol you said that on a forum with hundreds of people on 250,000 motors that are putting down twice the factory poweroutput... your agrument fails... hard

how many RB30s are still trucking with 350+ on the clock? shitloads

show me the hundreds of people with 250Ks without doing anything to engine other than the usual 10K service :thumbsup:

I have one of these sitting in my garage. My ceffy. RB20DET, regular services, not boosted, pretty much as it rolls out of the factory other than a pod. Still runs fine and smooth. Coilpacks degraded, changed them out, and now runs butter smooth again.

I've also owned an AE86 with a 4AC that had 420,000km on it, and it ran fine (although, that's a carby engine from the 80's) up until I put 6PSI of boost through it and took it to a track day to flog it. Once that blew, I bought another engine for $50 and swapped it in during the lunch break at the event, that engine had 360,000k's on it... and lasted half a day with similar forced induction carby setup.

go on an m3 forum and see how many of em actually get their cars repaired/serviced at mechanics/dealers. just coz its euro doesnt make it any harder to work on than a jap.

I know plenty of people with expensive euro cars... not one would go near them with a spanner (even though a few, like my old man, are mechanically minded)

reason being: some don't know how, or they spent too much on the car to have to worry about that sort of stuff etc

I agree they aren't necessarily harder to work on, that wasn't my point... all i'm saying is fk all people actually do it themselves, and instead pay through the nose to have it done for them

I have met my match.

Home made arak shot (so strong it's flammable)

Ended up spitting it all back thru my nose + nosebleed, drooling for a few mins non stop and a wikid sore throat as well as having everything in my stomach exit via my mouth.

Shit was f**kED

  • Nope 1

euro's are shit till you get mega expensive.... jap cars are always better bang for buck and that's the problem (when you buy them over here)

it's no good saying a 200k car is better than an 100k car

of course a c63 is better than a lexus ... (LSF would be pretty sweet tho)

also everyone i know that owns BM has been hit with major repair bills for things like altinator fails etc

i wasnt comparing 100k diff i mean

c200 to 3 series to IS series to A4 series etc.

the "luxury" brands cars are wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy better than the local offerings

I agree they aren't necessarily harder to work on, that wasn't my point... all i'm saying is fk all people actually do it themselves, and instead pay through the nose to have it done for them

From experience working on my mate's M5, Citroen C4, etc, diagnosing a Euro is piss easy as the new generation ones have a fully computerised CANBUS system that tells you everything on a laptop. Maintenance on them is also quite easy.

That said, a couple of years ago I'd have worked on my own cars, but now my spare time is worth more to me so I'd rather pay someone to do it for me, Euro or Jap, even though I have all the tools and knowhow to do it all myself. The fact that people don't work on them you'll find boils down to what they can afford and what they prefer to spend their time doing, and nothing to do with what car they own.

show me the hundreds of people with 250Ks without doing anything to engine other than the usual 10K service :thumbsup:

what like modifying it to make MORE power and stress the engine MORE...

2010-09-30-21-13-37463672918.jpg

I have one of these sitting in my garage. My ceffy. RB20DET, regular services, not boosted, pretty much as it rolls out of the factory other than a pod. Still runs fine and smooth. Coilpacks degraded, changed them out, and now runs butter smooth again.

I've also owned an AE86 with a 4AC that had 420,000km on it, and it ran fine (although, that's a carby engine from the 80's) up until I put 6PSI of boost through it and took it to a track day to flog it. Once that blew, I bought another engine for $50 and swapped it in during the lunch break at the event, that engine had 360,000k's on it... and lasted half a day with similar forced induction carby setup.

yours are standard though he's talking about ones with "twice the factory poweroutput" i highly doubt they'd last anywhere near as long as something stock.

anyways didn't mean to start a shit fight lol was just giving Dezz some suggestions other than the usual jap stuff.

I know plenty of people with expensive euro cars... not one would go near them with a spanner (even though a few, like my old man, are mechanically minded)

reason being: some don't know how, or they spent too much on the car to have to worry about that sort of stuff etc

I agree they aren't necessarily harder to work on, that wasn't my point... all i'm saying is fk all people actually do it themselves, and instead pay through the nose to have it done for them

i think they're just worried about resale. a complete service history book adds a decent amount to resale value. im not one who's fussed about that though anyone can make a fake history book and get a mechanic mate to stamp it all..

each to their own

I have met my match.

Home made arak shot (so strong it's flammable)

Ended up spitting it all back thru my nose + nosebleed, drooling for a few mins non stop and a wikid sore throat as well as having everything in my stomach exit via my mouth.

Shit was f**kED

so you are a fag....

every ethnic minority has their own home made alcohol that they think is 90% alcohol cos it's so strong....

it's not a high alcohol content that makes it taste strong, it's just cos it's badly made in nonna's toilet with f**k all skill.

go drink a shot of stroh, (80%) pure polish spirit (82%) or spyritus (95%) and then you'll see what real high alcohol content is

not to mention that all alcohols are flammable

go drink a shot of stroh, (80%) pure polish spirit (82%) or spyritus (95%) and then you'll see what real high alcohol content is

yo dawg, i herd you like high alcohol content. so I got you some methanol. 100% nyukkuh.

But yeah, arrak isn't strong, it's just shithouse homebrew crap that's badly distilled, hence making you feel like you participated in some two guys one cup action. Hell even properly mass manufactured arrak that we get from Sri Lanka (one of the benefits of a cultural history of being an arab trading port in the indian ocean) tastes like ass cos of the raw material content, not the alcohol percentage.

so you are a fag....

every ethnic minority has their own home made alcohol that they think is 90% alcohol cos it's so strong....

it's not a high alcohol content that makes it taste strong, it's just cos it's badly made in nonna's toilet with f**k all skill.

go drink a shot of stroh, (80%) pure polish spirit (82%) or spyritus (95%) and then you'll see what real high alcohol content is

not to mention that all alcohols are flammable

not saying its 90% lol

just saying its unusually strong, its usually a tad stronger than a chartreuse (spelling) shot but this time it was just f**ked up

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...