Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Try maccas... Lol

Check websites of retailers you want to apply for. Most don't use seek, they accept applications through their websites. That's how I got a job at Supercheap Auto :)

thanks, whats involved in working at supercheap?

Yeah. The gearbox/driveshaft etc. are all stock still (1990 ADM) so it looks like the best thing to do is buy a late model turbo halfcut and take the gearbox/diff off that.

Other than that the mechanic said it was a very healthy car, very straight body etc.

He couldn't believe the price I got it for :blink:

Yeah. The gearbox/driveshaft etc. are all stock still (1990 ADM) so it looks like the best thing to do is buy a late model turbo halfcut and take the gearbox/diff off that.

Other than that the mechanic said it was a very healthy car, very straight body etc.

He couldn't believe the price I got it for :blink:

or use the camry gearset I posted earlier

you want to buy a halfcut to take the gearbox out? :blink:

bahaha.

Nah, I need the diff and all that shit too. Then sell off the rest of the halfcut and get most of the money back.

It's the best way to do it IMO.

Find me a gen 3 gearbox, driveshaft and diff then :( I bet you won't be able to. A halfcut is like $2500 and I can sell the engine alone for like $2000.

no, what you will end up with is a halfcut sitting in your garage for a bit over a year while cheap fuckers vulture shit off you. Most nga's who you think want to swap an engine will also want the gearbox and drivetrain to go with it, just like you do.

But hey, if you wanna sink 2.5k and not see the 2k you intend to make back in your pocket for a while then go nuts. If I were you, I'd spend a little extra and grab just the stuff you need.

Just sayin from experience.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...