Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

arrgh....so bored at work....someone entertain me..lol...

Boo!

are these N1's?

post-41669-0-83358500-1292284995_thumb.jpg

post-41669-0-89296600-1292285005_thumb.jpg

Ask for ID tag, should be 707160 -7

only if the powerfc has a serial # in the format GTR33

if its in the format RB26 then you need FCC NT or product code 414-N001 or the new EL hand controller will work as well

Thanks, forgot to ask the seller the serial number, I've taken the plunge and bought FCC3, will find out when I have the new toy.

they fit the profile of N1's 0.60 a/r compressor and 0.64a/r rears

but why would you want n1's. they are the worst of the twins in terms of lag/power/response

either stick with your stockers which are 0.53a/r and 0.48a/r rears or go for GT-SS or garrett equivs (in my sig)

you would be insane to buy 2nd hand turbos and put them on your nice fresh engine == timebomb

if you remove the turbochargers, new would be the only way

N1 aren't that good, -9s are much nicer. I picked mine s/hand on my old R, it is fine and still is.

Cool.

Do the rear pods wrap around the rear bar?

Trying to work out of their eb or type m

Pods doesn't wrap around the bar so it's type m.

Yo peeps!!! Do you know anyone that brings in second hand rims from japan that has a site which is updated with pics???

There used to be a guy on NS or Sau that had a thread with second hand rims from JP with prices

Yo peeps!!! Do you know anyone that brings in second hand rims from japan that has a site which is updated with pics???

There used to be a guy on NS or Sau that had a thread with second hand rims from JP with prices

Eugene (aka MXfly or something)? I think he's trading under JDM Performance now. If he doesn't do that anymore, try importmonster.

Lawllll

If I was balls deep in a Girl infront of you guys I would still be a virgin to yalll nigas

You sure?

i got no issues with "should be fine" with 2nd hand units

the question here is, if you fit 2nd hand stockers, can you afford rebuild if the rebuild light comes on when the turbocharger fails?

if yes buy 2nd hand, if no, buy new

its a calculated risk

just be wary is all

hate to see him fit 2nd hand n1's only to have them shit a bearing

and your up for 5k rebuild to save $1000 on turbochargers

Yo peeps!!! Do you know anyone that brings in second hand rims from japan that has a site which is updated with pics???

There used to be a guy on NS or Sau that had a thread with second hand rims from JP with prices

have a mate who usually brings parts/rims from jap. what rims you after?

i got no issues with "should be fine" with 2nd hand units

the question here is, if you fit 2nd hand stockers, can you afford rebuild if the rebuild light comes on when the turbocharger fails?

if yes buy 2nd hand, if no, buy new

its a calculated risk

just be wary is all

hate to see him fit 2nd hand n1's only to have them shit a bearing

and your up for 5k rebuild to save $1000 on turbochargers

I don't trust 2nd stockers, I do trust 2nd aftermarket turbos providing it is in good condition before it is being whacked into the motor.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...