Jump to content
SAU Community

Tial Vs Turbosmart

Roy

By Roy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

I am finally close to removing my Greddy TD06 manifold and Type R wastegate and install my 6Boost manifold to be used with the same TD06 turbo.

I hit a small problem as i have a new Greddy Type R gate to use with the 6boost manifold, but with a rough trial fit the big Greddy gate wont go close enough to the collector for the 6boost manifold to be able to provide good boost control

So left looking for a replacement wastegate. Looking around the 45mm mark and the Tial V44 or the Turbosmart Hypergate 45 look to be the best options. The Turbosmart gate is a tad shorter by 10mm but both appear to be far smaller then the Greddy gate and will be able to be packaged well.

Has anyone got experience with either of these gates being used on 6boost manifolds? Which is the best option and where is the best place to source?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311467-tial-vs-turbosmart/
Share on other sites
GT32 Community Regular

GT32

Posted
Posted (edited)
I am finally close to removing my Greddy TD06 manifold and Type R wastegate and install my 6Boost manifold to be used with the same TD06 turbo.

I hit a small problem as i have a new Greddy Type R gate to use with the 6boost manifold, but with a rough trial fit the big Greddy gate wont go close enough to the collector for the 6boost manifold to be able to provide good boost control

So left looking for a replacement wastegate. Looking around the 45mm mark and the Tial V44 or the Turbosmart Hypergate 45 look to be the best options. The Turbosmart gate is a tad shorter by 10mm but both appear to be far smaller then the Greddy gate and will be able to be packaged well.

Has anyone got experience with either of these gates being used on 6boost manifolds? Which is the best option and where is the best place to source?

I use a Tial 44mm ext gate with my 6boost manifold, never had any problems. When I was looking around on what to purchase I did some research on these forums first. They both are pretty much identical in terms of reliability and performance according to alot of people. I ended up going for the Tial however cause my mate couldn't get in the Turbosmart through his work at the time.

Just don't skimp out and buy yourself a chinese copy because the quality is probably not as good and you might run into problems down the track with things like the diaphragm malfunctioning and the gate being stuck open. There's alot of nasty stories floating around with cheap ext gates. Purchase from a good, reputable brand and you shouldn't have any dramas.

Edited by GT32
Wheezy Mentor

Wheezy

Posted
Posted

Roy, I have not used a Turbosmart gate but I used to sell both and from past experience the Turbosmart gates are physically larger than most brands on average.

I would try to get your hands of both gates and trial fit the best you can.

Things may be different now so this point could be null and void.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Timing Roy , I know someone that just took a TiAL 44 of a 6Boost manifold on an RB26 and wants to sell it .

He went to a larger Turbosmart because the 44 wasn't big enough when the exhaust was increased to 4 and 3.5" .

Stay tuned , will be with the owner in a hour or so .

Cheers Adrian .

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Timing Roy , I know someone that just took a TiAL 44 of a 6Boost manifold on an RB26 and wants to sell it .

He went to a larger Turbosmart because the 44 wasn't big enough when the exhaust was increased to 4 and 3.5" .

Stay tuned , will be with the owner in a hour or so .

Cheers Adrian .

That could be a goer as its readily available. Some pics and a price would be handy

Doesn't Kyle only recommend the turbosmart 50mm gate?

He did when he made mine up.

He said he only stocks the Turbosmart gear these days, but said to go for either the 45mm Turbsomart or the 44mm Tial...he didnt seem fussed.

Cartman Rising Star

Cartman

Posted
Posted
Shits me how you buy the Tial gate, then there is an extra $100 in getting the V-band flanges. FFS you think they would supply the thing with the flanges and clamps !

uh... all tial gates i've bought have come with one flange for the bottom and one flange for the side aswell as vband clamps for both of those... 

juggernaut1 Proficient

juggernaut1

Posted
Posted (edited)
Shits me how you buy the Tial gate, then there is an extra $100 in getting the V-band flanges. FFS you think they would supply the thing with the flanges and clamps !

Huh...they do supply the flanges and clamps with the gate.

Well they ones I bought were all supplied with the gate.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S...tegory_Code=WGT

Edited by juggernaut1
DCIEVE Mentor

DCIEVE

Posted
Posted (edited)
He said he only stocks the Turbosmart gear these days, but said to go for either the 45mm Turbsomart or the 44mm Tial...he didnt seem fussed.

You may want to go larger, unless it's less of an issue on the 2litre.

In regards to wastegate placement and boost control. If I have ever supplied you or a friend with a turbo kit with a tial 44 for any kind of RB, when the order was placed the conversation would have been had that it is not good enough for the job, I do not recommend you use it, be aware X/Y/Y may happen, and if you must run it, and have boost control problems, do these things to fix it.

Original here:

http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/showth...632&page=10

Edited by DCIEVE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...