Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

thought i'd ask in here as opposed to in the suspension section, as it's a little more of a performance orientate question.

R34 GTR's... is there a performance disadvantage to run 10.5 +15's as opposed to 9.5 +12's? Looking at a lot of the jap workshop cars and a lot seem to be running 9.5J +12, cars with uber money spent and for some reason a lot of them go with that size. Is this the optimal size? From an aesthetic point of view, i would argue the 34's need 10.5 to fill the guards properly but are 10.5's +15 too big for track work and will going that size start to cause some negative effects?

cheers,

daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311928-r34-gtr-rim-options-95-12-or-105-15/
Share on other sites

hahahahah, it's just a question mate :(

i think i may have answered my own question though... Z-Tune runs 9.5's.... SURELY that must mean they're the optimal rim size? It's a pretty simple connection i've made but it must hold some weight, no?

EDIT: Z-Tune rims are 18 x 9.5 +5.... damn super rare rim offsets

ah... yes that's the other question...

if running 265/35's (street tyres).... too small for 10.5's +15's??

right oh.... so 10.5's fit 265 semi's better... interesting... what was Aaron running on his R? 9.5's or 10.5's? for sale thread doesn't seem to mention it

want to give it a good home? :(

I personally thing a 265 on a 10.5" rim is too small. My 34 GTR has 285's on its 10.5" rims and they are still mildly stretched. I haven't (and won't be) tracked the car so I can't comment on track performance, but on the road the car handles the wide wheels extremely well in comparison to the 32's I'm accustomed to.

You want the wheels leewah had before he sold his GTR... the BEST rims IMO... just can't remember what they were lol

As long as you have the tyre size the same front/rear Daniel, you won't have a problem. Otherwise ATTESSA will get angry at you :(

pretty sure they were XD9's with some pretty epic dish, from memory... - nice, but i'm a TE37 fan i think...

will see what rays has to say about some z-tune sizes, 9.5J +5 :thumbsup:

ppopsep06142md8.jpg

you know what I think. :thumbsup: there is not really much between them.

my personal opinion. if you are buying new, might as well get the 10.5. a 265 will sit fine on either the 9.5 or the 10.5 and like troy said the 10.5 carries a 265 semi much better than the 9.5.

most people would be hard pressed to pick much difference but for the slight cosmetic benefit go the 10.5 if you end up buying new. :ermm:

I have sets of both.

I run 265's on both sets.

I can't tell the difference from inside the car. But then with the TE37's - I can't even SEE the difference! LOL

Infact the only way I can tell which ones are which is by having different colored valve caps and stems on each set of rims. :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...