Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My Bonnet wont shut damn it!!!!!! the R34 bonnet height must be slightly different to the R33 When using a stock manifold as it is hitting on the BOV flange. I redrilled the engine mounts as per the manual but it still isn't quite low enough. It just gets on the 1st click of the bonnet latch, So I will try washers on the bonnet hinge and or chop the top lip off the BOV flange and re tap a bolt in lower.

I'll let you know what I do to get around the height problem, but a Greddy plenum would have been the easiest solution while the motor is out.

Chris

My Bonnet wont shut damn it!!!!!! the R34 bonnet height must be slightly different to the R33 When using a stock manifold as it is hitting on the BOV flange. I redrilled the engine mounts as per the manual but it still isn't quite low enough. It just gets on the 1st click of the bonnet latch, So I will try washers on the bonnet hinge and or chop the top lip off the BOV flange and re tap a bolt in lower.

I'll let you know what I do to get around the height problem, but a Greddy plenum would have been the easiest solution while the motor is out.

Chris

Did you slot the engine mounts?

Are you still using T/C? if not, I can give you an RB20 crossover pipe to try, it mounts teh bov in a different orientation.

Mine only hit on the lip of the timing belt cover and forward corner of the intake manifold.

Let me know if you want me to come take a look Chris :thumbsup:

Did you slot the engine mounts?

Are you still using T/C? if not, I can give you an RB20 crossover pipe to try, it mounts teh bov in a different orientation.

Mine only hit on the lip of the timing belt cover and forward corner of the intake manifold.

Let me know if you want me to come take a look Chris :woot:

Hey Bubba, cheers for the offer I may take you up on that at a later point.

Yes I slotted and rewelded the engine mounts to the max. I'm still using the T/C throttle body but it has no butterfly fitted. It didn't end up hitting the throttle body it self but the rubber sleeve between the throttle body and the cast aluminum pipe that the BOV mounts to.

what I ended up doing is cutting a small slot out of the bonnet to clear the joiner/throttle body. Then took a ball peen hammer to the crappy Just jap IC pipe that runs accross the radiator. as it was clashing with the CAS sensor. the piping looks like crap but its good enough to get the car running on and i'll get a replacement bent up later as i have well and truly used up all the goodwill with borrowing my mothers car.

A simpler fix would have been to use a R33 throttle body and get a pipe bent up to replace the cast ally peice.

regards

chris

Hey Bubba, cheers for the offer I may take you up on that at a later point.

Yes I slotted and rewelded the engine mounts to the max. I'm still using the T/C throttle body but it has no butterfly fitted. It didn't end up hitting the throttle body it self but the rubber sleeve between the throttle body and the cast aluminum pipe that the BOV mounts to.

what I ended up doing is cutting a small slot out of the bonnet to clear the joiner/throttle body. Then took a ball peen hammer to the crappy Just jap IC pipe that runs accross the radiator. as it was clashing with the CAS sensor. the piping looks like crap but its good enough to get the car running on and i'll get a replacement bent up later as i have well and truly used up all the goodwill with borrowing my mothers car.

A simpler fix would have been to use a R33 throttle body and get a pipe bent up to replace the cast ally peice.

regards

chris

Nice work, but the most important question is, skids?:)

I have to find some time to duck up to the workshop and pull my pistons out, then I can send everything to the machinist!

Nice work, but the most important question is, skids? :)

I have to find some time to duck up to the workshop and pull my pistons out, then I can send everything to the machinist!

Not yet mate, 36k's on the clock and its painfull I just wanna give it some Revs damn it. It's booked in for a quick run in tune on tuesday then I wont have to fear about leaning it over 3-4krpm.

Josh DO IT, it has so much torque every where compared to the Rb25 with a hiflow. I mean 3rd gear 2krpm from walking pace tractored straight up a damn steep hill.

chris

Not yet mate, 36k's on the clock and its painfull I just wanna give it some Revs damn it. It's booked in for a quick run in tune on tuesday then I wont have to fear about leaning it over 3-4krpm.

Josh DO IT, it has so much torque every where compared to the Rb25 with a hiflow. I mean 3rd gear 2krpm from walking pace tractored straight up a damn steep hill.

chris

Ugh run is so painful hehe

Shoot me a PM when you're ready for skidz and I'll bring the vidcam down :D

  • 1 month later...
Hey Bubba, cheers for the offer I may take you up on that at a later point.

Yes I slotted and rewelded the engine mounts to the max. I'm still using the T/C throttle body but it has no butterfly fitted. It didn't end up hitting the throttle body it self but the rubber sleeve between the throttle body and the cast aluminum pipe that the BOV mounts to.

what I ended up doing is cutting a small slot out of the bonnet to clear the joiner/throttle body. Then took a ball peen hammer to the crappy Just jap IC pipe that runs accross the radiator. as it was clashing with the CAS sensor. the piping looks like crap but its good enough to get the car running on and i'll get a replacement bent up later as i have well and truly used up all the goodwill with borrowing my mothers car.

A simpler fix would have been to use a R33 throttle body and get a pipe bent up to replace the cast ally peice.

regards

chris

So if im using the r32 rb25de head with standard throttle body and piping It should prevent the fouling on the bonnet if i get the mounts to sit as low as possible? Im not too keen to go front facing if i don't have to.

So if im using the r32 rb25de head with standard throttle body and piping It should prevent the fouling on the bonnet if i get the mounts to sit as low as possible? Im not too keen to go front facing if i don't have to.

just remove the nice cover off the bonnet put a big dollop of grease along your throttle body to BOV. drop the bonnet down see were its got grease. pull out trusty 5" angle grinder and remove the small peice of bracing. bonnet sorted. But you still need to drop the motor to the absolute max, and for good measure i put 2 washers under the bonnet hinge and lifted the bonnet latch a few MM.

and chuck the cover back on? Im just concerned as I'm planning on getting the car all certified for the streets afterwards and don't want it to effect that. How is your conversion coming along anyway?

yeah mate, just spray some primer over the raw edges and then put the cover back on. what you can't see aint gonna hurt them mate. its not like you have removed all the bracing . just 100x100mm square.

My cars running and tuned done 2000k's, made 366hp 500nm @ 5500rpm. needs a little more boost and she will be sweet.

Nice mate!!! Is this in your r34? You got any pictures of how she's sitting in there? I can't wait to start my conversion aye, just need to get rid of my r33 first get pay off some bills before i get into it lol.

366 5000nm thats nice man bet it pulls hard. What turbo and boost are you running urtwhistle?

I'll have to take some pics, the turbo is a hypergear 3576. running 16psi. it doesn't make massive power but its mega fun to drive.

366hp still a decent amount for the street tho :happy: I bet it is a lot of fun!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...