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So next week I'm getting the engine pulled out of my GTR to have an extended sump fitted. As the car is going to only be used on the track, what are some other things I should consider getting done whilst the donk is out? Along with the sump, it has a brand new N1 pump (which I'm sticking to, don't see the value in upgrading) and I will be installing a 1.5 way Nismo Diff, Twin Plate Clutch and a Breather Tank.

I'm also looking at throwing on a Just Jap oil cooler, and Just Jap Silicone Hoses. How do they fare on the track? Also it worth buying Cam Cover Baffles? Or is the Extended Sump sufficient?

Any other suggestions would be great.

Cheers!

I'd go Jap oil cooler over JJ..... The chinese kit I had was rubbish and a line failed - scared the crap out of me (wasnt JJ, but they looked similar at the time). It was binned for an HKS kit which is far superior. I think of it as engine insurance, cost $800 from nengun at the time.

Replace ALL the rubber coolant hoses if you havent already. Check engine mounts.

A 3qrt high pressure accusump with manual valve.

Instead of the oil cooler, get yourself a bigger radiator, pref twin pass atleast, with built in heat exchanger. Kill two birds with one mod!

Just make sure your catch can has a return from the bottom that plumbs into your sump above oil level on the exhaust side. If possible, also fit another line from the intake side of sump/block to your catch can as an extra crank case vent.

If you are getting serious but dont want to spend heaps of money, get a good quality oil pressure gauge, water temp gauge and two oil temp gauges. One probe in sump, and other probe after cooler/heat exchanger.

I would atleast change the gears in the oil pump.

+1 for not using a chineese oil cooler. Killed 2 rb20's

+1 billion for accusump... I don't know why more people dont run them???

Even if you don't use them straight away, put in any and all crank case vents, drains etc. Don't worry about the cam cover baffles, you can easily put them in with the engine in.

Replace any cracked coolant/vac lines under the plenum... replace the tb gaskests if you havn't allready with metal ones. Pleunum is an ass to get off in the car. also make shure all your coolant/oil lines are good and sealed/secure to the turbo's... again a very labor intensive problem.

Definatly replace the heater hoses too.

hicas out

oil pressure and temp gauges, water temp gauge, mechanical fuel presure gauge at the fuel rail

big sump

head drain

head oil feed restrictor

catch can

big radiator and oil cooler

silicon lines under the plenum, and also intercooler and radiator lines. good hoseclamps too.

i agree accusump is a good idea too, I've never tried it but those running them swear by them

Thats about it....if you don't push it too hard it will be fine :O

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm more or less addressing most of the items Duncan just pointed out, but is the accusump really necessary? I would've thought the hi-octane sump, catch-can and oil cooler would be sufficient? Also this is the hose kit from Just jap:

heathosesetgtrblu.jpg

Would that do the trick?

Cheers!

The accusump is a good way to ensure you dont get oil surge, well thats not true, its a good way to keep your motor supplied with oil while you are experiencing oil surge in the sump. The sump, catch can and oil cooler all address three different areas. The sump and accusump will work well together. Plus the benefit of pre oiling is always good for ensuring bearing life everytime you start the motor.

  Lazy-Bastard said:
Get rid of all the heater/water hoses under the inlet plenum!

What are the benefits? and what happens to the coolant that used to flow out of there?

  JimmyRickard said:
Also what do people think of the Hi Octane sump? Are there any other alternatives?

Wow, didn't realise hi-octane did a sump extension for GTR's. Most people use the Trust extensions.

  JimmyRickard said:
Also what do people think of the Hi Octane sump? Are there any other alternatives?

Rips NZ do a sump extension, they are alloy (not cast) internally baffled etc.. Rob added a temp sensor bung and a couple of #10 bungs aswell for oil return and crank vent.. it worked out cheaper then buying one here due to the $AUD-$NZ.

Lots of road clearance (10mm lower then standard), and the welds are perfect!

http://www.ripsltd.com/services.html

Cheers,

Johno

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