Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK- was wondering what you'd refer to as Simon has made 410kw on a Dynapack, which read similar to the Dynojets. DD read LOWER than most, doesn't make them more accurate - but it helps to know which scale you are talking on.

Given 700-750whp on a Dyno Dynamics and 800-850hp on a Dynojet/Dynapack (difference isn't really quite THAT much, but for sake of discussion we'll roll with that) mean pretty much the same thing to all of us, thats an epic result from a turbo that size!

The other issue is...if it was on a dynojet/other american dyno...its whether its configured to convert to crank hp, or just read the straight rwhp levels, from memory they can be configured to do either, which is why some results vary so much. I have read stories on some of the yank v8 forums of a car rolling out after a tune on X dyno, going across the street to Y dyno and losing 80odd HP

I try to use DD results, as they are kind of like an industry standard here in aus because there are so many of them.

My mind is open to that...or I wouldnt be telling people that they WILL make over 400rwkws with -5s on a 26.

Didnt Mark Berry make 450awkw on -5? Again the last 50kw is what cost money

700hp I would believe...not 850, Im sure I have said it in this thread to, in that when I see a yank dyno result I pull 100hp off it and it seems to be fairly accurate, So yes 750rwhp is entirely possible from a turbo rated at 720hp, on a engine on good fuel with excellent VE

Quick edit - while im not trying to start a shit fight cause I cbf.

look at the Sierra Sierra EVO, COSWORTH build and tuned motor with a EFR 9179 turbo makes 850awhp.

You cant compare 2 different types of engine let alone 2 of the same engine with varying VE. One which was developed in the late 80's and one that was built after 2005....

nur33's R32 has a HKS T62R (1200hp) and makes similar and that thing has the best of everything

best of everything doesnt mean its right!

I just cant see a 62mm/700hp turbo making that much power, especially with one of the smaller turbine housings fitted.

the 6266 looks to be a brilliant turbo and had these results came out 2 weeks ago i wouldve grabbed on instead of the T78

Unlucky!

One member from supra forums ran 9.9sec in a full weight supra on a factory built auto (6265) 6months ago this new version was always going to do good things..

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?633847-Na-t-6265-new-best-9.99-133&highlight=6265

Here's a heavy as soarer with a power sapping Turbo400 running 9's with a 6265 and 640rwhp

You need to be a member to view.

Ill look for the supra thread later..

Na-t, 6265 new best 9.99@133

Just got home from the drags. Got a few runs in and finally hit a high 9. I previously had a best of 10.1x on a pair of 265/40/18 mt dr's on is350 wheels with a 1.6x time. A good buddy of mine let me borrow his M&H dr's and I was able to cut a little better 60 foot. Just enough to squeak a 9.99 on my last pass during bracket. I was very happy to say the least.

Boost was a solid 30 psi and I launched with around 15psi as anything more would have massive tire spin. I honestly didnt think this little 62mm turbo had a 9 in it, but I am pleased to say it does!

Time slip consists of.

60' 1.527

330' 4.206

1/8 6.428

mph 110.33

1000' 8.357

1/4 9.994

mph 133.61

not sure why the low mph as the car was trapping 137-138 all night? My buddy that was filming went home early so I didnt get any footage of the car running the 9.99. I did however get the in car video with a gopro of that pass. Before he left for the night he had filmed a few 10.0x passes. I am uploading the video's on youtube at the moment, as I finish I will post the link here on this thread.

  • 2 weeks later...

So.....Differences between the 6266 and the 6265? is the former just an update? price differences and what Split T4 rear housing should I be looking for on a 1JZ? was thinking 1.00a/r?

Or Should I look at a 6262?

The PT6266 has an updated higher flowing turbine wheel, not aware of any other differences.

Here's a dyno plot from an EVO running cams which are on the mild side for this kind of power (probably good part of the reason the power doesn't keep going to higher rpm), 35psi on E85 with more to give with more tuning... which should be done this week.

This is a 2.2 litre with a T4 open turbine housing:

EvoNASTY.jpg

Because of the natural "blargh American dynos are BS" I take the liberty to provide some very conservative calculations to give what it should make - at least, on a Dyno Dynamics at equivalent rpm:

4000 - 125kw

4500 - 225kw

5000 - 363kw

5500 - 412kw

6000 - 535kw

6500 - 555kw

7000 - 561kw

7500 - 555kw

8000 - 528kw

8500 - 509kw

Over 2500rpm with 500+awkw, its pretty insane imho. Look forward to seeing what it does with more boost, even though its beyond what any of us would normally push :)

For what its worth, both of them would be a heap better than the T78 haha. But yeah, with a 7200rpm limit I'd be looking at a PT6262 at most.

How much are you looking at spending? Have you considered a GT3586R-HTA from Forced Performance? They are very very cool turbos...

Hahaha If I had the money I wanted to have I would get something with fancy ball bearings etc...but alas I am poor atm...so spending around the 1200 mark....still considering a BW airwerks but they are even bigger physically than the T78-33d lol

So yeah...6262 with the .84 split rear...had a look at some results on the net, but they are all dissapointing (car setup not turbo + tiny open t3 housings) but even with just a AFC and injectors they are making 400+hp on around 20psi and PULP

which is fine by me...not fantastic but gives me hope that a decent tune will net 400 DD hp on less boost.

If it doesn't I will forever keep rubbishing PT turbos lol

Oh - you are getting a plain bearing PT? OK yeah, if size is an issue then the PT6262 is probably the best value for money turbo thats going to make a good amount of power. Otherwise a BW or a Holset unit would be brilliant.

looking forward to it, as per ryan1200's advise, and Me loving stupid amounts of power I am now confuzzled as to getting the 6262 or 6266

Logic says 6262 for a street 1JZ....only if they can supply a larger housing for it, (the 1.00 a/r twin scroll would be good)

However the a/r ratio means nothing if the .84 precision housing is of a larger frame than say a GT35R?

Anyone know?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...