Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am near completing fitting out the front facing plenum. The fmic is in and piped up, that was quite easy, as was most things after, as Darrin put it, a few drinks.

Now the original procedure was via stuff from Skylines, and the fuse boxes in the 33s is different to the Stagea, Thats a bugger caus you cant turn the T/B 180 degrees not even without a spacer. So I got all the bits in except the BOV. This was shown as being on the cold side of the IC. This means a massive piece of 30mm tube to get back to the inlet if you are not atmospheric BOVing.

Then thanks to KiwiRS4T(Bob) who is researching the same subject, I saw a BOV, vented back to the OEM inlet pipe, on the HOT side of the front mount. Now is this wise? I need some feedback as I am worried that the unloaded gasses may be too hot.

Help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314318-bov-relocation/
Share on other sites

I am near completing fitting out the front facing plenum. The fmic is in and piped up, that was quite easy, as was most things after, as Darrin put it, a few drinks.

Now the original procedure was via stuff from Skylines, and the fuse boxes in the 33s is different to the Stagea, Thats a bugger caus you cant turn the T/B 180 degrees not even without a spacer. So I got all the bits in except the BOV. This was shown as being on the cold side of the IC. This means a massive piece of 30mm tube to get back to the inlet if you are not atmospheric BOVing.

Then thanks to KiwiRS4T(Bob) who is researching the same subject, I saw a BOV, vented back to the OEM inlet pipe, on the HOT side of the front mount. Now is this wise? I need some feedback as I am worried that the unloaded gasses may be too hot.

Help!

I was always under the impression that the closer the BOV is to the throttle body on the cold side the more efficient it works, as it would release pressure from the point furthest away from the turbo...

its not uncommon to have a piece of pipe running from one side of the engine bay to the other as a return, as coming from s15's that's how they were stock...

my 2 cents tho...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314318-bov-relocation/#findComment-5157843
Share on other sites

I run a front facing plenum with BOV in the hot side plumbed back to intake. Works fine, shouldnt really matter. Heres a photo to hopefully help you out, I know its not a stagea but may still be helpful

IMG_1088.jpg

PM me if you want more photos

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314318-bov-relocation/#findComment-5157876
Share on other sites

Im interested to see if you guys notice a loss of response with going the forward facing plenum, im contemplating doing it on my R34, but i dont want to lose any response or mid range, and being they have shorter inlet i would assume you would lose some?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314318-bov-relocation/#findComment-5158232
Share on other sites

Im interested to see if you guys notice a loss of response with going the forward facing plenum, im contemplating doing it on my R34, but i dont want to lose any response or mid range, and being they have shorter inlet i would assume you would lose some?

I guess Duncan would be the best to talk to. Or go to Skylines and look up Front Facing Plenums. There is a fair bit of info there. A lot of 33 drivers have done it.

Also if the runners were longer it would be better low down, but there is not much room. I think it will be better up top.

Edited by 66yostagea
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314318-bov-relocation/#findComment-5158403
Share on other sites

Im interested to see if you guys notice a loss of response with going the forward facing plenum, im contemplating doing it on my R34, but i dont want to lose any response or mid range, and being they have shorter inlet i would assume you would lose some?
I presume you mean off boost but I don't expect it to make any difference. On boost I thought the point was to reduce the length of piping and so reduce lag?!
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314318-bov-relocation/#findComment-5158551
Share on other sites

my particular plenum has quite long runners for greddy style....but I can't make any comment about response because I did the 3l block at the same time....

considered running no bov like me? it makes a very childish noise which makes me giggle :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314318-bov-relocation/#findComment-5159982
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...