Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

First one is my favourite. Focus seems a little off.. I'd suggest taking a small LED torch to help camera focus when shooting at night time

P.s. Those wheels rock!

Thanks a lot for the feedback mate - noted... It was a bit rushed. The other thing was I had the ISO setting up around 640+ on my D70 and there tends to be a fair bit of noise added up towards the higher ISOs, which I hate.

Thanks a lot for the feedback mate - noted... It was a bit rushed. The other thing was I had the ISO setting up around 640+ on my D70 and there tends to be a fair bit of noise added up towards the higher ISOs, which I hate.

Ah yeah - I've got a D80 so know what you mean!! Another tip - If you have a tripod (like the reflection shows!) just fix the ISO to 100 or 200 and just do a longer exposure to make up for it. Also try using the timer (I do it all the time) so you're not touching the camera at all when it starts the shot :happy:

Ah yeah - I've got a D80 so know what you mean!! Another tip - If you have a tripod (like the reflection shows!) just fix the ISO to 100 or 200 and just do a longer exposure to make up for it. Also try using the timer (I do it all the time) so you're not touching the camera at all when it starts the shot :happy:

Cheers Zennon. The tripod's pretty obvious hey :) I'll usually leave it on 100 by default but for some reason had jacked it up about a week earlier and didn't put it back. Haven't quite got it down as a routine yet to check it before starting a shoot. I do use a remote to set the shutter off though. I've also been looking at possibly buying a newer Nikon with a larger screen, cos even though the D70 does everything I need it to, I find the small LCD is a massive hindrance to checking for focus, noise, etc before going back to the laptop.

my remote shutter/hold switch I bought on ebay for $5 incl postage was probably the best accessory I got for my D90. No shake, easy to use on tripod, lets me set up the camera and then stand away from it while taking pics... which is great when you don't want to startle animals etc. Awesome for macro photos.

Nagoodness - cheers dude :) Will do a proper shoot of the car soon. Been so busy lately and also very lazy hahah. Car needs a good wash!! oh and i like your 2nd last shot of that chick (its cute).

godzilla - i took that shot at my work carpark. So you wont be able to do it there sorry :happy:

akw - WOW thats crazy!!! nice shots tho :)

lepper- 1st and 2nd shots for me ;)

Cheers Zennon. The tripod's pretty obvious hey :) I'll usually leave it on 100 by default but for some reason had jacked it up about a week earlier and didn't put it back. Haven't quite got it down as a routine yet to check it before starting a shoot. I do use a remote to set the shutter off though. I've also been looking at possibly buying a newer Nikon with a larger screen, cos even though the D70 does everything I need it to, I find the small LCD is a massive hindrance to checking for focus, noise, etc before going back to the laptop.

As for ISO - yeah I did that once! Took photo's for an hour before I realised I had ISO on 3200 from some testing last time!!

As for screen for seeing OOF areas.. yeah you're never going to be able to buy one big enough I'm afraid - only way is to zoom in on the little screen three (or maybe 4) times and then check ;)

my remote shutter/hold switch I bought on ebay for $5 incl postage was probably the best accessory I got for my D90. No shake, easy to use on tripod, lets me set up the camera and then stand away from it while taking pics... which is great when you don't want to startle animals etc. Awesome for macro photos.

Yeah I've got one of those - use it for night time shooting but during the day I still find myself using the timer instead

Irfanview is good and free

Just open the photo in that and press Ctrl+R (for the resize/resample image dialog)

Then type in how many pixels you want the image to be wide e.g. 800 (leaving other settings as default) and press Enter

Then Ctrl+S to save :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...