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Clutch Problems


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Hi Forumn goers!

Hopefully you knowledgeable people can help out here.

My clutch peddle is now basically on the floor. The engage spot seems to have moved. Also when you release the clutch it seems to come up half way they stick at that point, then pop up suddenly. The clutch engages just fine and you can drive the car....

Anyone have any ideas on what this could be. I plan on taking it to a clutch person but just wanted a heads up before I go.

Thanks,

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Sounds like all she needs is a good bleed as its likely you have an air pocket in the line, or your master cylinder is empty and it needs a top up with some brake fluid

I had the same problem, i had to keep bleeding it every 3-4 days for about 2 weeks until i could afford to get a new master cylinder as mine was leaking. Your problem could be at either the master cylinder or slave cylinder, or you may get lucky and find that your fluid level is just a little low.

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my clutch also engages very low, but i have DR30 and it has a self adjusting slave cylinder mechanism with an arm that sinks back into the slave cylinder to set the engagement point as the teeth of the press plate wear out and push back. so it automatically adjusts itself down as it wears out. so mines very low now as it is worn out.

but if urs just suddenly did it and is sticking, it is likely theres a leak somewhere if fluids are still high. its probably easier just to drop by a good clutch place that will take it for a spin and let you know :D

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hey there a 31,, i believe you problem would be the rubber seals in either your master cylinder or your slave cylinder, if the clutch was working fine before and it suddenly started giving that problem, most of the time you need to change the seals or replace the entire cylinder. is the colour of the fluid in the cylinder dark? if so it means the fluid is contaminated and you should start with the master cyl. if the fluid is not dark then you should try bleeding the slave cyl. and check the colour of the fluid there. if your clutch starts to work better when you bleed the slave then the rubbers in the slave needs to be replaced. i hope this helps

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how do you bleed it ?

have same problem on bros R33

Need 2 ppl, one person sits in the car and pushes the clutch all the way in.

The other person loosens the nipple of the clutch master cylinder (use one of those brake bleeders thingys with the tube etc to catch the fluid) and bleeds air/fluid out.

NOTE: BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE NIPPLE BACK UP BEFORE THE PERSON IN THE CAR RELEASES THE CLUTCH, it needs to be fully depresses whenever the nipple is not fully tightened, otherwise you will only draw air back into the cylinder.

Repeat as many times as required, keeping an eye on the level, even topping it up if its getting much below the MAX line.

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Thanks for the help guys. Here's a summary of what was wrong and how diagnosed:

Started with the idea of air in the lines somewhere as bleeding is cheap and easy to do with a mate with some knowledge. There was a bleed point on the master cylinder so we tried that first. No joy there so we traced along and found a bleed point at a T joint further down. No joy there either. Then we tried top bleed from the slave cylinder itself. No joy there but we noticed that the rubber seal on the slave cylinder was "balloon" shaped. Upon squeezing the rubber seal alot of fluid came out. and the clutch automatically returned to normal.

The fluid pressure in the seal was not allowing the slave cylinder to move properly and was restricting how far it could return and that is what made the clutch point lower and not enough pressure to return the pedal to normal height.

Solution: Rebuild the slave cylinder as there was a leaking seal.

Will...

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I am currently having a simiar problem which is getting fixed as I type this. My brake fluid levels were way down and we bled the system, but the clutch still didn't feel spot on. Did this 2 or three times but their was an obvious leak as the rubber hose was coated in fluid. Same solution - leaking seal new slave cylinder.

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