Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Plazmaman all the way. i have one on my 25. workmanship is beyond belief!

guys are fantastic to deal with and very helpful.

standard throttle body bolts straight on if thats the one you want.

more room in the engine bay because of this...easier to fabricate the cooler piping.

its just better so buy it...and its WAY cheaper than original greddy. its about $1000, greddy is like $1700...

oh and copies of the greddy are just a waste of time...

Weve run both on our race car with identical setups as a back to back comp. Done at mercury a good 2-3 years ago now. We picked up a good couple hundred rpm in the midrange and more power with not much change in the top end. Currently run the plasmaman plenum, though I do have a greddy on my raod car.

dont underestimate the greddy. I have egt sensors in my exhaust manifold and the tuner was very impressed with the evenness of the temperatures across the cylinder range. That tells me I am getting a good even fuel distribution across all 6 pots.

This is in no way a slight at the Plazmaman product, it may well do the same but i aint changing to find out.

No one is doubting the even-ness in flow of either product, hell that is why I have a HYPERTUNE plenum on my r34 gtr. The engineering and design of there (hypertune) plenum's mean there is only a 0.5% difference from the highest to the lowest runner. (I can't remember exactly where that number came from, but I am pretty sure the lad's at Hypertune told me that when I was looking at my options).

The single biggest factor when deciding between these 2 plenums (plazmaman and Greddy) is the loss of midrange torque due to the short runner on the Greddy, and the second is SPACE. The Plazmaman sits up higher the whole way along and as such becomes unsuitable for some installations (such as RB25's into s13's, rb20's into old school Capri's etc). Sometimes it is a little more headache with the Plazmaman because of this, but we try every possible solution before throwing on a Greddy. We have even used R33 runners/PM tops on R34 engines as they sit in different locations (we did this on the VC commodore with NEO RB25 conversion).

No one is doubting the even-ness in flow of either product, hell that is why I have a HYPERTUNE plenum on my r34 gtr. The engineering and design of there (hypertune) plenum's mean there is only a 0.5% difference from the highest to the lowest runner. (I can't remember exactly where that number came from, but I am pretty sure the lad's at Hypertune told me that when I was looking at my options).

The single biggest factor when deciding between these 2 plenums (plazmaman and Greddy) is the loss of midrange torque due to the short runner on the Greddy, and the second is SPACE. The Plazmaman sits up higher the whole way along and as such becomes unsuitable for some installations (such as RB25's into s13's, rb20's into old school Capri's etc). Sometimes it is a little more headache with the Plazmaman because of this, but we try every possible solution before throwing on a Greddy. We have even used R33 runners/PM tops on R34 engines as they sit in different locations (we did this on the VC commodore with NEO RB25 conversion).

The loss of midrange is an easy fix, I have istalled a 40 mil plenum spacer made by mace engineering to add runner length. it also has the added advantage of reducing intake temp.

With the engine running hard on track i can put my hand on the plenum. A couple of minutes of heat soak after the engine is switched off tho and its too hot to touch,

Both obviously good products, use what you prefer.

OK slightly off topic...but onthe topic of the Hypertune plenum.....Trent have you done any back to back testing of the Hypertune vs stock on the black top SR's?

Unfortunately not. We used to do plenty of SR20 work a few years ago, but since that time the large majority has been RB's and 2J's. We still do SR's but not to the same extent or quantity that we used to. Hypertune introduced their plenum after this time, so I haven't really had a customer request to do it, so we haven't. I really want to build a street/drag car to take out the under 2.4L radial record, but am a bit preoccupied with the workshop and our r34. If I find the right client and he wants to test this sort of stuff, then yes I would love to see how they compare. I dare say it would be a similar situation in that the shorter runners creates less torque in the mid range, later spool, but good outright power.

any one done a plazmaman plenum into a neo rb25

and what about one in a r32

Its something that you will have to try in your engine bay because it in a different engine bay, but there should be a combination of runners and tops that will work with your car. We fitted a neo 25 into a VC commodore and we ran into problems with the large brake booster taking up a big chunk of area near the firewall/plenum. What we noticed was that the r34 runners extend further away from the engine and the plenum sat further away to suit so that it was fouling on the booster. Luckily we had another gtst in the workshop with a plazmaman setup on it, so we test fitted that and it turned out it was about 10-15mm closer to the engine and it was just enough to clear the booster. So we bought a second hand set of r33 runners and swaped the r34 plenum with an r33 one from Plazmaman. It took lots longer to install, but there was a solution.

The loss of midrange is an easy fix, I have istalled a 40 mil plenum spacer made by mace engineering to add runner length. it also has the added advantage of reducing intake temp.

With the engine running hard on track i can put my hand on the plenum. A couple of minutes of heat soak after the engine is switched off tho and its too hot to touch,

Both obviously good products, use what you prefer.

Do you have any pics of the 40mm phenolic spacer?

Cheers

Justin

Its something that you will have to try in your engine bay because it in a different engine bay, but there should be a combination of runners and tops that will work with your car. We fitted a neo 25 into a VC commodore and we ran into problems with the large brake booster taking up a big chunk of area near the firewall/plenum. What we noticed was that the r34 runners extend further away from the engine and the plenum sat further away to suit so that it was fouling on the booster. Luckily we had another gtst in the workshop with a plazmaman setup on it, so we test fitted that and it turned out it was about 10-15mm closer to the engine and it was just enough to clear the booster. So we bought a second hand set of r33 runners and swaped the r34 plenum with an r33 one from Plazmaman. It took lots longer to install, but there was a solution.

Have you done back to back on a gtr the hypetune rb26 plenum vs stock gtr one?

What the difference?

Edited by sky30

I just installed my plazmaman pro series kit, I know your asking for a vs greddy plenum but I had stock plenum with a greddy retun flow cooler. After the install I gained maybe 10rwkw, but added a shit load more response. As I'm running a gt3076 it was slighty laggy with old setup but now I've seen a 500rpm+ boost pick up. And +1 on the workmanship!!! Being the proseries kit I got also got the billet thottle body, and pre fab'd piping, I found it was easier relocating battery to the boot.. Maybe something you don't need to do with greddy??? And let's not forget plazmaman is very exy!!

God those throttles are gorgeous, gotta get around to getting one, would finish mine off nicely me thinks. I see that they have slighlty changed the plenum with "Plazmaman" not being engraved on the top but now on the bottom.

gallery_35676_3285_1108098.jpg

Edited by PM-R33
  • Like 1
Do you have any pics of the 40mm phenolic spacer?

Cheers

Justin

I'd like to see these aswel, esspecially if the stock rb26 plenum can accomodate them (I'd guess it's a simple fit and some basic pipework), more torque is always welcome here :P

Just to confirm , did someone mention you can use the std R33 throttle cable with this plenum ?

Also one for Mercury , I don't suppose its possible to use the GTt runners and PM plenum on an R33 ?

Would there be any gain or just lots of grief for no real purpose .

Lastly , WHAT is the size of the R33 std throttle plate ? PM site shows a 66mm throttlebody as their smallest offering so whats the difference between this and the std R33 25DET throttle plate size ?

Cheers Adrian .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...