Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I got done by the EPA. I need to remove my Piggyback ECU (UNICHIP). Is it just a matter of pulling it out, and removing the relevant wired up connections?

I also have larger injectors, and Z32 AFM. I will be removing these and replacing with stock items.

Once these are removed i just reset my ECU and the car will run?

Or is there anything else i need to do for it to run off standard computer?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/315807-removing-piggyback-ecu/
Share on other sites

You will see that some piggy backs actually run in series with the ECU wiring, just remove the piggyback & join back the relevant wires.

As long as you replace the aftermarket larger injectors & Z32 your car will run fine off the standard computer. Also make sure your base timing is correct to, the previous owner/tuner may have adjusted the CAS to suit the piggy back.

I pulled the Kick Panel off my GTR today, when I bought the car I was told it had a MIMO Piggyback (Dunno What that is) but cant actually see anything that looks like an ECU of any kind only a little brown box with some heavy gauge wires coming out of it, Plenty of Splicing though!!

post-34973-1270690830_thumb.jpg

post-34973-1270690891_thumb.jpg

greensa14 - totally depends as others have said - how the UNICHIP is installed.

Perhaps get some pics?

If you have to unwire it and so on, it's going to be a pain in the ass.

You'd be better off with a PFC or something that is a replacement setup - 30 sec to remove from the factory harness.

Ok thanks for clearing that up I will have to look a little deeper, has Nismo AFM's so there has to be something in there surely!!

Open the cover. I'd say it's a chip on the actual ECU board.

There is no way you'll have aftermarket AFM's without a chip to alter it as there is no wire-in piggy back in those pics :woot:

I had a look last night. It is an external ecu that has been tapped in to the other wires on the factory unit to obviously change the readings as they pass through.

So it looks like i need to remove the spliced wires and re-solder the factory ones so they dont bypass.

Yea PFC would be good, but over worrying about defects etc. Dont want anything visible.

Looking at going Nistune.

why is a nistune (or unichip for that matter) illegal? they are not programmable on the fly, and the factory ECU is just as retunable as they are.

Surely the final emission is the only issue for legality? Plenty of shops in NSW that can provide a tune that will get you past the emissions test, why would Vic be different?

why is a nistune (or unichip for that matter) illegal? they are not programmable on the fly, and the factory ECU is just as retunable as they are.

Surely the final emission is the only issue for legality? Plenty of shops in NSW that can provide a tune that will get you past the emissions test, why would Vic be different?

Nistune can be retuned - the EPA here is retarded is the basic sense, archaic laws with no common sense.

Unichip go through the ADR testing/approvals, Nistune has not and can be retuned anytime.

Unichip you have to go back to them for (assumingly).

What is the criteria for an aftermarket system to meet ADR over there?

Nistune board can be PIN locked once the tune was able to meet emissions. The only way to retune it then is use the original PIN or reflash the board outside of the ECU

Transport SA documentation I have previously read states that any aftermarket/reprogrammed ECU will not be accepted due to the cost of the emissions testing required. However things may have changed since that was published

Cause we have some whack ideas down here.

A number of rules surrounding car modifications make zero sense.

The 1 intake mod for example. Senseless. No aftermarket ECUs....senseless.

I might get in touch with my local member and get her to ask Tim Pallas for a "please explain".

What is the criteria for an aftermarket system to meet ADR over there?

Nistune board can be PIN locked once the tune was able to meet emissions. The only way to retune it then is use the original PIN or reflash the board outside of the ECU

Transport SA documentation I have previously read states that any aftermarket/reprogrammed ECU will not be accepted due to the cost of the emissions testing required. However things may have changed since that was published

Vic is near enough to the same for the sake of the conversation.

PIN lock means nothing.

If its reprogrammable, not factory, its not allowed until all the full testing is done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...