Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just had a new battery installed so i thought i would reset the ecu...

i have to say i never had a problem like flat spots or bad idle but i found that now i have more bottom end, and very suprisingly the rev limiter seems to be kicking in just past 7000, which before used to kick in around 6500!!! :D

and it not as violent as it was before the reset...actually its quite smooth...

i am wondering if anyone had similar results from an ecu reset, or anyone know why this happened....

look forward to comments.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31590-just-reset-my-ecu/
Share on other sites

i had similar results on my 32 as well. you basically reset the ECU so that it will relearn your driving characteristics again. i usually reset whenever i had any mods on the car such as air pod, exhaust, new oil change and even strut and sway bars. you will notice the RPM bouncing up and down a little but that's normal. run a search thru' the forums and you will probably find more comments on resetting the ECU.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31590-just-reset-my-ecu/#findComment-637310
Share on other sites

Resetting has smoothed out things for me a few times.

After I've reconnected the battery I let the ECU learn things differently to other people do.

I start the car and let it idle for 5-10 mintues. First off it's a little high and sometimes it hunts a little. After a while it learns the idle and is perfectly smooth.

Then I'll turn the air con on and let it idle for about 5-10 mintues, again it hunts for a while then it's perfect. Then again with the air con on AND the rear demister on etc...

Then instead of taking it out and reving the crap out of it I just drive normal.

Works a treat for me.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31590-just-reset-my-ecu/#findComment-637470
Share on other sites

interesting comments so far...

i gotto say when i did the reset about 2 weeks ago i didnt notice much difference, but today i made sure i stepped on the brake pedal about 15 times to make sure all power drained...whereas 2 weeks ago i only pressed the brake pedal about 5 times.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31590-just-reset-my-ecu/#findComment-637576
Share on other sites

Don't bother pumping the brakes, just hold the pedal down for at least 30 seconds.

What it does is closes the circuit to the brake lights, the lights will then suck all the remaining power out of the car, eg. all the power out of the capasitors etc...

So once the power is sucked out of all the capasitors in the ECU it will loose it's memory.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31590-just-reset-my-ecu/#findComment-637756
Share on other sites

im a big advocate of resetting the ECU since i did it on my DR30 (FJ20ET engine)

my last car, S13, didnt seem to make huge improvements from ECU resets, mainly it did a bit wen i got full exhaust, and also wen i got big intercooler. but nothing major really.

but the DR! wen i got it it was running shit, misfiring like hell, seeming to hit the revlimiter as it tried to come on boost, hunting at idle, just running all shades of shite. then i changed the plugs (they were pretty worn out but not totally) and unplugged battery overnite and reset the ECU, and WALLAH! absolute perfection! revved rite from 0-7000rpm redline without a hiccup, didnt hesitate on gearshifts, and didnt hesitate on/off throttle.

it felt like a new car really just from ECU reset. but this is an old management system so its probably pretty shagged haha my mate said his FJ s12 did the same thing, wenever it got rough he just reset its ECU and it was perfect again!

also i accidentally overboosted mine to like 1.2bar and it made it go all retarded too so i had to reset to fix that. (0.9 is most i usualy run, or just under)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31590-just-reset-my-ecu/#findComment-637849
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...