Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Swapping Workshops/wreckers?

TurboDoseBro

By TurboDoseBro,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

TurboDoseBro Proficient

TurboDoseBro

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks matey. It still needs an engineers certificate because the displacement of the engine is changed to 2.5L within a vehicle registered with a 2.0L engine, quoted from engineers (VACC). Been phoning around and it's roughly $2.5k. Your 2 cents is more like $2.

Edited by viiictor
Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
Posted
Thanks matey. It still needs an engineers certificate because the displacement of the engine is changed to 2.5L within a vehicle registered with a 2.0L engine, quoted from engineers (VACC). Been phoning around and it's roughly $2.5k. Your 2 cents is more like $2.

No you dont need an engineers certificate when changing to 2.5Ltr for the r32.

Change of engine

1. Replacement engine is identical to the original engine, or is an option allowed by the manufacturer for the same model vehicle

The optional engine must be offered in Australia by the vehicle manufacturer as an option for that vehicle (or certified variants). The change of engine may be recorded by VicRoads provided that the registered operator or a motor mechanic, or dealer in that make of vehicle or an Automotive Engineer signs a declaration certifying the engine is optional for the vehicle model, and that all modifications made by the manufacturer for the same vehicle model with that optional engine have been completed.

http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Regist...difications.htm

The rb25de was an option for the r32. So it shouldnt be a problem

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted
Told you... Trust me I researched... Last thing I wanted after spending so much was to not be able to have it insured and registered!

I just had mine done - it cost $600 all done.

whoever told you 2.5k is up the duff!

I'm going to take a stab that $2.5k includes ECU and motor.

TurboDoseBro Proficient

TurboDoseBro

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yup, workshops/wreckers will charge roughly $2.5k for engine + ECU + wiring + etc for the whole conversion. Now if i could just find if the R33 engine will fit onto the RB20DET's tranny.........

For now:

Japan Special Vehicles: $2600 (the lot engine, ECU, wiring, etc)

Oakleigh Mechanical Repairs: $2500 - 2800 (+$500 - 600 for R34 RB25DE NEO) (the lot)

R E Customs: ~$2000 (the lot) (told me he was gonna get back to me 2x but hasn't...asshole...LOL :merli:)

Edited by viiictor
TurboDoseBro Proficient

TurboDoseBro

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Apparently (according to nissansilvia.com, no traitor :/) the RB25DE and RB20DET boxes are the same, so is the speed sensors. But however that brings out the question now...do i use the R33 ECU + loom or the R32 ECU + loom....thanks

EDIT: Hmmmm pretty stupid question as R33 RB25DEs have VVT so would need their own ECU. But the speedo sensor and loom then...

Edited by viiictor
Wheezy Mentor

Wheezy

Posted
Posted
you need to use r33 loom for a r33 engine.......r32 loom for a r32 engine

And to clarify, engine loom only.

Can't be much harder than an R32 loom in an R31. Its about 7 wires and you are running with all gauges on the dash working.

TurboDoseBro Proficient

TurboDoseBro

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Nice nice...sourced everything except the R33 series 1 wiring loom -_-' these things are pretty rare, called up about 8 wreckers and none except 1 with series 2 wiring...

To add to the engine swapping wreckers/workshops:

JS Jap Imports: $2200 for conversion kit / $3200 + labour (speak to John) (talk about overpriced...LOL)

Edited by viiictor
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

^ RB20DET boxes are OK behind RB25DET boxes for stock outputs/turbo etc.

Once you change the turbo the RB20 boxes become questionable. Some people have been perfectly fine, others have killed them in short periods so its always a gamble if you run a RB20 box + RB25 + 240rwkw(or more)

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

Can we please go back to talking about what a silly idea spending $5k+ on nerfing the shit out of an otherwise perfectly good car is, please?

TurboDoseBro Proficient

TurboDoseBro

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Sorry but it's actually $2k to turn the car P plate legal if you find the right place (this is excluding reselling the engine). R32 GT25s go for roughly $10k anyways (surely there will be someone who is willing to dish out more). By the way i'm running a RB20DET tranny in a R33 RB25DE (non turbo) motor so should be alright since it's less power and torque overall.

Edited by viiictor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • GTSBoy
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • Nydt
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By Nydt · Posted

      I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
×
×
  • Create New...