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Fu(k me dead, what an effort!

I thoroughly enjoyed read that.

Ok;

1. Love the colour. Is it custom or from a late model car?

2. Did you weigh the car before and after the dynamat?

3. Which is the final spray shop (eg the one you were happy with)

4. The chrome bit on the right hand side that looks like it says "SUPRA" on it - do you have another pic please?

5. You have NO idea how jealous i am of the dash pic at night, thats just perfect

6. Hows the traction?

7. Is the FMIC thick enough? (sarcasm here :) )

8. Great work on the headlights, but have you got something planned for the high beams? Ive found thats a weakness at night, in hills

9. Do you have more pics please, of the gap between the thermofans and the pulleys? For example, if someone wanted to bypass the FMIC and have the turbo run straight to the throttle body between the thermos and the pulleys, is that gap wide enough to allow that? Ive tried to measure, but mine has the clutch fan and i cant tell where thermos would be unless i fit them

10. The whole car, is a real credit to you.

Well done!

Thanks mate.

The colour is the 996 porsche gunmetal grey that has had a few tweaks along the way, really just a few extra pearls.

I didnt wigh the car but i would estimate it added a mere 20kgs. i had to door kits and 2 bulk packs which can all be held by one hand. I ahd also removed all the sound deadening in the car but that was only about 6kgs all up. I laugh at people that think removing soundeadening makes a big difference, when half of then could loose the weight by taking a dump before they race!

The shop that painted it was smashtech in sydney. The shop ill be taking it to soon is KMF in canberra. Naz the owner was the painter for boostn rodeo etc Smashtech were good, they got the car finished quickly, but dont rub cars back "as it removes the gloss finish" or to lazy. its not 100% but then again I think i've become pretty anal about small things which will anouye me but most people who look at the car cant even see the details haha

The shiney engine bling is polished billet from the US. Jump on the MVP motorsprt website and have a look. I'll get some closer pics soon. The ingnitor cover, dip stick, and master and clutch cylinder caps all have the supra logo embossed into them.

The TRD dash is awesome but damn hard to find as a full set.

Traction isnt too bad at all. out of a launch its not crash hot but it'll hold high boost without an issue. I'm sure the sudden change in weight distribution on a launch is causing the problem haha

The FMIC is only 130mm thick, 4row trust cooler, stopped myself getting the 150mm thick core haha

I was going to put a HID kit into the high beam but i think its over kill. i found the low beam HID kit over powered the high beam previously while driving.

There is a reasonable gap there. ESP relocated their radiatior further forward so they could use a large water intercooler. you looking at running methanol? I know Darin from titan motorsprts ran a meth setup with his 4788.

Just have to finish the last few things so i can sell it off. very much over this car now haha

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ok wow.

ill be honest - supras arent my fav cars - but mate the amount of time/effort/money/love you've poured into this looks well well worth it, well done!

can i just add that running 335 tyres is baller as f**k, and that manifold/turbo/gate set up is porn

Thanks mate.

The colour is the 996 porsche gunmetal grey that has had a few tweaks along the way, really just a few extra pearls.

I didnt wigh the car but i would estimate it added a mere 20kgs. i had to door kits and 2 bulk packs which can all be held by one hand. I ahd also removed all the sound deadening in the car but that was only about 6kgs all up. I laugh at people that think removing soundeadening makes a big difference, when half of then could loose the weight by taking a dump before they race!

The shop that painted it was smashtech in sydney. The shop ill be taking it to soon is KMF in canberra. Naz the owner was the painter for boostn rodeo etc Smashtech were good, they got the car finished quickly, but dont rub cars back "as it removes the gloss finish" or to lazy. its not 100% but then again I think i've become pretty anal about small things which will anouye me but most people who look at the car cant even see the details haha

The shiney engine bling is polished billet from the US. Jump on the MVP motorsprt website and have a look. I'll get some closer pics soon. The ingnitor cover, dip stick, and master and clutch cylinder caps all have the supra logo embossed into them.

The TRD dash is awesome but damn hard to find as a full set.

Traction isnt too bad at all. out of a launch its not crash hot but it'll hold high boost without an issue. I'm sure the sudden change in weight distribution on a launch is causing the problem haha

The FMIC is only 130mm thick, 4row trust cooler, stopped myself getting the 150mm thick core haha

I was going to put a HID kit into the high beam but i think its over kill. i found the low beam HID kit over powered the high beam previously while driving.

There is a reasonable gap there. ESP relocated their radiatior further forward so they could use a large water intercooler. you looking at running methanol? I know Darin from titan motorsprts ran a meth setup with his 4788.

Just have to finish the last few things so i can sell it off. very much over this car now haha

The colour sort of looks like the late model magna colour

Do you find its much quiter inside now with all the dynamat? Also how hard was it to change carpet to black? Where's it from? The stock gray is CRAP!

Ill have a look on MVP right now for dress up parts, cheers

The stock dash is a joke, i dont care about the fuel and temp guages, i just need the speedo and tacho - are they easier to come by by themselves? Im assuming the temp and fuel ones are the hard ones to find

Good to see its holding traction ok, i guess with those huge tyres its got no choice haha. Do you still have the traction control butterfly in the intake?

I feel the same way with the headlights, the low beams are way better than the high beams, but when i used to drive it every day id go for a nasho/hill run at night and there just wasnt enough light in the distance to see whats coming up and at speed thats no good cause there was a few "wow, that came faster than i expected" moments at macquarie pass as its got a lot of dips and crests

Nah not methanol, i want to get rid of all the unrequired pipework and any excess lag. Its not all about power for my one, more throttle response i think is important. Im hesitant to lose the clutch fan as its just so good at drawing in the air, but of course thermo's are the way of the modern cars and as long as they have a high enough CFM rating then its all good. Did your shroud come pre fabbed like that? It looks very nice and neat. Ive got a 3566-82R here, so the thinking is; Turbo to water/air cooler in that area behind the headlight, then pipework between the pulleys and radiator then two 90deg bends into the intake. Radiator and electric water pump for the WTA cooler can go where the stock SMIC goes, that way its got a nice stable intake temp and stealthy

Dont sell it, just get an R34 aswel haha :ermm:

The colour sort of looks like the late model magna colour

Do you find its much quiter inside now with all the dynamat? Also how hard was it to change carpet to black? Where's it from? The stock gray is CRAP!

Ill have a look on MVP right now for dress up parts, cheers

The stock dash is a joke, i dont care about the fuel and temp guages, i just need the speedo and tacho - are they easier to come by by themselves? Im assuming the temp and fuel ones are the hard ones to find

Good to see its holding traction ok, i guess with those huge tyres its got no choice haha. Do you still have the traction control butterfly in the intake?

I feel the same way with the headlights, the low beams are way better than the high beams, but when i used to drive it every day id go for a nasho/hill run at night and there just wasnt enough light in the distance to see whats coming up and at speed thats no good cause there was a few "wow, that came faster than i expected" moments at macquarie pass as its got a lot of dips and crests

Nah not methanol, i want to get rid of all the unrequired pipework and any excess lag. Its not all about power for my one, more throttle response i think is important. Im hesitant to lose the clutch fan as its just so good at drawing in the air, but of course thermo's are the way of the modern cars and as long as they have a high enough CFM rating then its all good. Did your shroud come pre fabbed like that? It looks very nice and neat. Ive got a 3566-82R here, so the thinking is; Turbo to water/air cooler in that area behind the headlight, then pipework between the pulleys and radiator then two 90deg bends into the intake. Radiator and electric water pump for the WTA cooler can go where the stock SMIC goes, that way its got a nice stable intake temp and stealthy

Dont sell it, just get an R34 aswel haha :)

Really? Might have to change it if it looks like a magna haha

I have found it to be much quiter inside. That said the car has a 4” exhaust that is near straight and a muffler that doesn’t really muffle anything haha HKS ti exhaust is awesome but loud!! There has been a significant change in the stereo sound. With a third of the volume it seems to be 5 times louder and much clearer etc. it also has the nice luxury style door closing thud sound haha

Grey carpet is crap. I purchased the black carpet, black vinyl roof lining and all the other bits from a wrecked late model. They’re all highly sort after parts so they cost a fortune for used parts haha

Have a chat with Dusty from MVP. Exceptional service and great pricing. I wouldn’t buy parts from anyone else these days. No one in Australia comes close to his level of service!

If you don’t like the stock dash then perhaps a moulded motec digital dash is the go. Check a guy by the name of Jamie P in the UK to see what I mean.

Traction control is gone however i didn’t get a chance to polish the TB and remove the traction control flap. I guess its partly do with still wanting a hypertune intake on there.

I think your best option would be to relocate the radiator closer to the front. That way you’ll have ample room to put the WTA cooler in-between the block and radiator. Putting it up the front will give it plenty of air with out anything to block it like the intercooler etc hell you could even try v mounting the radiator and putting the WTA cooler below of above without blocking air flow?

My shroud is not the best but i think it has more to do with the dodgy fluidyne radiator too...

Mate if i could afford both i would but there is no way. I love the look of the supra compared to the GTR. The big draw card for me is you can have a motor like Matts racepace rb28 that looks relatively standard but still pumps 400wasps at all 4s. Even if i didn’t have a polished motor or even a small 30 series turbo, its still obvious whats happened. And while ACT police wouldn’t care about the motor, when they defect height or noise, the car needs to go over the pits. The twats there will want it all engineered and then once that happens they wont even except the certificate...not worth the hassel!

I guess tastes change over time as well as requirements so the supra needs to go haha

This build is epic!

Those iforged wheels are absolutely amazing; on top of that they are shod of quality Michellin Pilot tyres. They would have costed a fair bit of dough.

The colour is awesome and very stealth like, suits the overall theme of the car.

After the R34 GTR, the supra with a widebody kit is my next most favorite JDM car.

We just need better quality photos!

Cheers

Matt

how about a swap matt :)

The iforged wheels did cost a bit. The previous CCW wheels were 18x10 and 18x13, hence the 335 rear tyre. Unfortunately the iforged wheels are slightly narrower, 19x10 and 19x12. The new iforged wheels have 315 continental tyres, which cost as much as the 335s.

One good thing about the supra is the guys in the US have tried and tested a lot of different set-ups. And with the dollar so go atm its an even better incentive to buy from the US.

Edited by natett

Really? Might have to change it if it looks like a magna haha

I have found it to be much quiter inside. That said the car has a 4” exhaust that is near straight and a muffler that doesn’t really muffle anything haha HKS ti exhaust is awesome but loud!! There has been a significant change in the stereo sound. With a third of the volume it seems to be 5 times louder and much clearer etc. it also has the nice luxury style door closing thud sound haha

Grey carpet is crap. I purchased the black carpet, black vinyl roof lining and all the other bits from a wrecked late model. They’re all highly sort after parts so they cost a fortune for used parts haha

Have a chat with Dusty from MVP. Exceptional service and great pricing. I wouldn’t buy parts from anyone else these days. No one in Australia comes close to his level of service!

If you don’t like the stock dash then perhaps a moulded motec digital dash is the go. Check a guy by the name of Jamie P in the UK to see what I mean.

Traction control is gone however i didn’t get a chance to polish the TB and remove the traction control flap. I guess its partly do with still wanting a hypertune intake on there.

I think your best option would be to relocate the radiator closer to the front. That way you’ll have ample room to put the WTA cooler in-between the block and radiator. Putting it up the front will give it plenty of air with out anything to block it like the intercooler etc hell you could even try v mounting the radiator and putting the WTA cooler below of above without blocking air flow?

My shroud is not the best but i think it has more to do with the dodgy fluidyne radiator too...

Mate if i could afford both i would but there is no way. I love the look of the supra compared to the GTR. The big draw card for me is you can have a motor like Matts racepace rb28 that looks relatively standard but still pumps 400wasps at all 4s. Even if i didn’t have a polished motor or even a small 30 series turbo, its still obvious whats happened. And while ACT police wouldn’t care about the motor, when they defect height or noise, the car needs to go over the pits. The twats there will want it all engineered and then once that happens they wont even except the certificate...not worth the hassel!

I guess tastes change over time as well as requirements so the supra needs to go haha

Thats a pretty good recommendation for dynamat. Ill look at that when i do the interior ;)

Ill try toyota for genuine new black carpet, if thats too much, there's a few places that do moulded carpets and you can choose the colour so thats pretty decent, there's one near my house aswel as a bucketload on ebay haha

Ah yeah i know what you mean for the dash, something like a STACK, i wouldnt go that far, something like yours is ideal but the red would go for a super bright white i think (may turn out crap in white, so i guess thats an easy change lol)

The WTA cooler i mean is this one;

w2a-9.jpg

For only 600hp at the engine it doesnt have to be a monster sized one so they're quite compact. Id mount it in the bit where the stock airbox goes, then run only piping behind the radiator to make it easier. Thanks for the idea about moving it all forward, ill suss that out - v mount would be a no go, way too much effort hahaha

I know what you mean about police - my GTR looks the same under the bonnet (twin turbo, quite sedate looking) and makes ok power, but its still getting engineered. Seems thats the only way these days! I know you guys in ACT get it pretty bad though :)

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Update time.

So it looks like I'm going to keep the car and continue to finish it. The main areas at this stage is ther interior retrim and fixing up further defects to the exterior. all being well the car will be finished this year as now im just getting the little things finished and ready for hopefully a couple magazine photo shoots.

took the car out to install a new super dragger exhaust to lessen the noise made by the 4" HKS Ti system that was on there.

IMG_0631.jpg

IMG_0632.jpg

IMG_0634.jpg

little update....

IMG_0662.jpg

car is off to the third body shop to have the front bar rectified and front lip installed. Im also removing the number plate holes etc from the front. lets just say there will be a lot of plastic welding. i have a feeling once the front lip is on ill need to lift the suspension.

ESP will also be installing:

RDA slotted rotors

brand new 4/2 pot calipers (selling the older ones)

brand new braided lines

QFM A1 pads

new fluids

also getting the car checked and new plugs installed.

Im also designing some custom metal grills for the air vents.

Unfortunately due to timing i wont have the interior ready for a possible show this weekend. however i have just recieved my 5SQM of black alcantara to match my sparco seats for some additional suede and carbon fiber throughout the interior! Massive thanks to Dusty @ MVP for sourcing and shipping this over to me quickly...this man's service for parts (even the parts he does not commonly sell/ advertise) is second to none!!

IMG_0663.jpg

Here is the car in its new home for a couple weeks. KMF Customs is a relatively young business however the owner Naz has been around for long enough to have painted cars like the summernats top 60 and god of autosalon Boostn and much more.

47544_467370176162_556496162_7079870_2640198_n1.jpg

Unfortunately it wont be ready for the show this weekend however its finally in safe hands and will be 110% when it leaves.

Small updates.

Brakes have been fixed and new calipers etc installed.

Interior parts have been finished and im picking up the back seat tonight

front bar has been plastic welded and fixed up to suite the wider guards

door handles have been removed ready for repainting

a few more interior bits are going to be repainted too

i wont be going to toyotafest now as i cant see things being 100% over the next few days as well as a few major assignments due next week.

Still to come:

custom front inner guards installed

custom metal grills for the front fenders

cut and modify rear quaters

new 345 tyres for the rears

bit more dynamat to rear wheel arch areas

LED dash conversion + new buttons

Front bar

IMG_0679.jpg

IMG_0675.jpg

dusty car

IMG_0673.jpg

IMG_0674.jpg

new brakes

IMG_0677.jpg

IMG_0676.jpg

interior bits nearly finished

IMG_0670.jpg

IMG_0669.jpg

IMG_0668.jpg

IMG_0667.jpg

more pictures to come

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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