Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's one of the threads about it:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...turbo+boost+add

Any logical person that knows a bit about physics realises that each pressure can not combine the way people are thinking.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317943-dumb-question/#findComment-5198703
Share on other sites

The real question is, if you run a turbo + supercharge setup, what will the boost be :P

Forgot to say too, it isn't so much about how much boost the turbos make, it is more about how hard they WORK to make that. All things being equal, 2 turbos will only have roughly half as much work done on them to make the same boost, since the air FLOW is higher even though boost is the same.

Edited by Thelen
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317943-dumb-question/#findComment-5199336
Share on other sites

^^^ well if the super is receiving air from the turbo it will be compressing compressed and pressurised air therefore e.g 2.5psia from the turbo compressor outlet into super inlet will give 5psia.... It would be like compound turbocharging, 40psi anyone?

If the super and turbo are receiving atmosphere air then if both run 12psi then manifold pressure should be 12psi??? not too sure on this one.

Edit: Let me make sure that im perfectly clear on this subject, if my sr20det made 200rwk at 1bar from a t28 will that mean that two t28's will make 400rwk at 1bar total?

Edited by 2lazy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317943-dumb-question/#findComment-5199371
Share on other sites

manifold prussure, is exactly that, pressure in the manifold, or what we call "boost" when its past positive pressure or absolute pressure

where the pressure comes from is irrelevant, ie 1 turbo, 2 turbos, 3 turbos, supercharger and turbocharger etc

and pressure does not equal volume

this why 15psi on a stock turbo vs 15psi on a GT35R make different levels of power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317943-dumb-question/#findComment-5199637
Share on other sites

I understand that but on that link there are two arguments, one is that:-

two turbos making both 1bar will make half has much air as one turbo making 1bar(same turbo model as the twin), so they flow the same both twin or single. You will see 1bar on your boost gauge with both set ups but they make ruffly the same amount of hp.

The other argument:-

twin turbos both at 1bar will make 1bar of pressure at the manifold BUT it will flow twice as much air.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317943-dumb-question/#findComment-5199664
Share on other sites

I understand that but on that link there are two arguments, one is that:-

two turbos making both 1bar will make half has much air as one turbo making 1bar(same turbo model as the twin), so they flow the same both twin or single. You will see 1bar on your boost gauge with both set ups but they make ruffly the same amount of hp.

The other argument:-

twin turbos both at 1bar will make 1bar of pressure at the manifold BUT it will flow twice as much air.

You need to remember boost is a measure of restriction to air flow.

Keep everything at the same efficiency, increase air flow, boost will increase...

Hence two turbos at one bar combined flow as much air as one turbo at 1bar, making the same power...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317943-dumb-question/#findComment-5199675
Share on other sites

Exactly, boost is a measure of restriction. It means the turbo(s) are pushing that much air, that the engine can't keep up taking it all in so it builds up and increases in pressure. (Think of blowing up a balloon). It is all about volume of airflow! Turbo(s) technically do not create "boost", they create heaps of airflow that as a result of being in an engine environment ends up being pressurised which is what we call "boost". Hence if you pop an intercooler pipe, no restriction, no boost in the intercooler pipes (theres a lot more that comes into play here but in general that's an easy way to think about it).

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317943-dumb-question/#findComment-5199731
Share on other sites

Exactly, boost is a measure of restriction. It means the turbo(s) are pushing that much air, that the engine can't keep up taking it all in so it builds up and increases in pressure. (Think of blowing up a balloon). It is all about volume of airflow! Turbo(s) technically do not create "boost", they create heaps of airflow that as a result of being in an engine environment ends up being pressurised which is what we call "boost". Hence if you pop an intercooler pipe, no restriction, no boost in the intercooler pipes (theres a lot more that comes into play here but in general that's an easy way to think about it).

That is the best way I've heard someone describe it and should assist people in understanding.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317943-dumb-question/#findComment-5199836
Share on other sites

pressure is constant but the flow/ volume of air doubles

not exactly. the possible volume of air doubles (free air delivery). once you put them into an enclosed system such as they are on an engine, and have the boost regulated by a wastegate measuring pressure (aka resistance), then you won't get double the airflow. your total airflow won't really change much because the things that are causing the restriction will still cause the same level of restriction whether you compress the air via 1 million mice blowing through straws or the worlds biggest turbo. there is a limit to how much extra air you can flow through the intake before you are going to hit the same restriction and i would guess that it isn't much more than with anything else.

"but people make more power with bigger turbos at the same pressure" is a common reply to that line of thinking, and i understand that, but how much of that is down to the bigger compressor on the turbo and how much is down to the fact that the exhaust flow is much higher and there is much less restriction on the exhaust side of the turbo? i'd say that a fair bit is on the exhaust side and not that much has to do with the bigger compressor (not saying that it doesn't play any part in it, but just not as much as people think).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317943-dumb-question/#findComment-5207296
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...