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Modified Skyline 0-100 Times

gwilkinson34
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waxracing Experienced

waxracing

Posted
Posted (edited)

Traction control measures wheel speed of all 4 wheels or of two wheel depending on which ecu you use

Top end ones measure all 4.

It then calculates the amount of wheel spin of these figures and reduces the power output to stop or to reduce wheel spin depending on what % of slip you have programed in.

Its a great advantage for getting power down off turns. Much like when you are trying to accelerate away in a hurry say in a 0-60 time.

Its not legal in a lot of forms of racing due to the great advantage it gives you on lap times with huge power down gains.

On the street these is not those rules and so it can be used and will make a massive difference to getting you off the line.

If you choose not to use it thats fine and your choice.

If you think your awesome enough to drive your car in the wet then thats great and I have no issue driving a high power car in the wet either, but I would like to still be able to accelerate away from the lights quickly and cleanly , this is why I will be using switchable traction control.

Oh and I said 400whp not 400wkw

Edited by waxracing
joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

People just need to harden the f**k up... My car is fine in the wet! I just don't kick the firewall when I accelerate and guess what.... That's right, it is controllable

traction is controlled by your right foot regardless of setup... Want more traction? Use less right foot!

On Edge Veteran

On Edge

Posted
Posted
People just need to harden the f**k up... My car is fine in the wet! I just don't kick the firewall when I accelerate and guess what.... That's right, it is controllable

traction is controlled by your right foot regardless of setup... Want more traction? Use less right foot!

LOL + 1 :cool:

Gunnar_11 Enthusiast

Gunnar_11

Posted
Posted
People just need to harden the f**k up... My car is fine in the wet! I just don't kick the firewall when I accelerate and guess what.... That's right, it is controllable

traction is controlled by your right foot regardless of setup... Want more traction? Use less right foot!

LMAO

SXY_33 Collaborator

SXY_33

Posted
Posted

according to my RSM my best time is 4.70s in about 59m i think...

235rwkws ans 235's at the back, but i lose a bit of time with wheel spin from 1st to 2nd, i dont do it often enough to get used to how much throttle i need.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted
Traction control measures wheel speed of all 4 wheels or of two wheel depending on which ecu you use

Top end ones measure all 4.

It then calculates the amount of wheel spin of these figures and reduces the power output to stop or to reduce wheel spin depending on what % of slip you have programed in.

Its a great advantage for getting power down off turns. Much like when you are trying to accelerate away in a hurry say in a 0-60 time.

Its not legal in a lot of forms of racing due to the great advantage it gives you on lap times with huge power down gains.

On the street these is not those rules and so it can be used and will make a massive difference to getting you off the line.

If you choose not to use it thats fine and your choice.

If you think your awesome enough to drive your car in the wet then thats great and I have no issue driving a high power car in the wet either, but I would like to still be able to accelerate away from the lights quickly and cleanly , this is why I will be using switchable traction control.

Oh and I said 400whp not 400wkw

Are you saying the standard R33 GTS-T/R34 GTT traction control does this? My experience of the standard traction control is that once it kicks in, 90% of power is lost and you barely move. I dont see how this ever would result in a quick take off.

Are you saying this is adjustable too?

Your not talking about the R35 GTR are you haha

waxracing Experienced

waxracing

Posted
Posted
Are you saying the standard R33 GTS-T/R34 GTT traction control does this? My experience of the standard traction control is that once it kicks in, 90% of power is lost and you barely move. I dont see how this ever would result in a quick take off.

Are you saying this is adjustable too?

Your not talking about the R35 GTR are you haha

Clearly as I am talking about programing % of wheel slip then I am talking about adjustable traction control as alot of aftermarket ecu,s have built in to them. please re read the thread

You can choose how much slip you have off the line ie the amount of tyre spin you will accept.

On Edge Veteran

On Edge

Posted
Posted
Are you saying the standard R33 GTS-T/R34 GTT traction control does this? My experience of the standard traction control is that once it kicks in, 90% of power is lost and you barely move. I dont see how this ever would result in a quick take off.

Are you saying this is adjustable too?

Your not talking about the R35 GTR are you haha

All street car traction control works pathetically just learn how to drive without it...

gwilkinson34 Collaborator

gwilkinson34

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Clearly as I am talking about programing % of wheel slip then I am talking about adjustable traction control as alot of aftermarket ecu,s have built in to them. please re read the thread

You can choose how much slip you have off the line ie the amount of tyre spin you will accept.

I think you'll find setting this up may be a costly and difficult exercise. My Haltech has traction control but then you need extras to measure wheel speed / slip etc etc and then you need to set it all up / get it working right.

And if i set it up with the standard R34 TCS it will be just about as useless as it used to be...

Not sure if it's worth it...?

Edited by gwilkinson34
waxracing Experienced

waxracing

Posted
Posted (edited)
I think you'll find setting this up may be a costly and difficult exercise. My Haltech has traction control but then you need extras to measure wheel speed / slip etc etc and then you need to set it all up / get it working right.

And if i set it up with the standard R34 TCS it will be just about as useless as it used to be...

Not sure if it's worth it...?

You are assuming I have not already done it a few times.

Im not speaking from inexperience here I have set up a couple of track cars with it before and seen the results.

I suggest you try the haltech with traction control setup you will be suprised at the results. If you set it up right you barely feel it.

If you just boot it and let it do all the work then yes you will feel it, If you come off a corner and are also trying to control wheel spin you dont actually notice it working in the background. you just dont get those flares in wheel speed anymore as you are feathering the throttle.

I agree the std traction control is way to aggressi ve in its settings and does kill the car, that is the way its setup in the computer not the fault of traction control itself.

Is it worth it on the street well I guess that a choice every one has to make

I think it is for when you are doing a mountain run or something like that, ie helping with power down off a corner.

Edited by waxracing
Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted (edited)
All street car traction control works pathetically just learn how to drive without it...

Yup thought so, just wanted to give waxracing a chance to have a relevant helpful point. Oh well at least I tried.

I switch off traction control as soon as I start the car. I was actually going to ask my tuner if he could default it to off.

Surely the R35 GTR traction control would be good though!

Edited by Harey
gwilkinson34 Collaborator

gwilkinson34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thats an impressive time

Looks like I should easily be posting flat-low 4s with 273rwkw and Yoko AD08 255s then... if only I had a way to time it!

(and no, I'm not going to bother spending anything on something that will...!)

Trozzle Grand Master

Trozzle

Posted
Posted

Wax, learn to throttle control.

You made it sound as though you drive with an on/off switch for throttle. If you can drive an 80hp FWD shitbox in the wet, yet can't seem to handle a 400hp RWD in the wet, you need to reassess your right to hold a driver's license.

Agree? If you agree, you worded what you said wrong. Disagree and you might as well respond with "+2"

Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
Posted
Looks like I should easily be posting flat-low 4s with 273rwkw and Yoko AD08 255s then... if only I had a way to time it!

(and no, I'm not going to bother spending anything on something that will...!)

Just gotta get lucky. My RSM was a bargain, 100 bucks with a G sensor aswell. 4 wires, 30 mins install, and its ready to time my terrible, full of wheelspin launches!

waxracing Experienced

waxracing

Posted
Posted (edited)
Wax, learn to throttle control.

You made it sound as though you drive with an on/off switch for throttle. If you can drive an 80hp FWD shitbox in the wet, yet can't seem to handle a 400hp RWD in the wet, you need to reassess your right to hold a driver's license.

Agree? If you agree, you worded what you said wrong. Disagree and you might as well respond with "+2"

Where do I say I drive cars with an on and off throttle control ? We are all here because we love to drive cars fast and modify them right ??

Well traction control helps you do that. if there was something that gives a clear advantage why would you not use it.

They banned it in formula 1 because it was to much of an adavantage does this mean that formula 1 drivers didnt have throttle control up to 2008 when it was banned ? no.

Its an advantage use it or dont , It doesnt bother me its your choice.

Edited by waxracing

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