Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i recently purchased an R32 GTR from Japan. Ive had it for 2-3 weeks now. The problem is I used to be able to rev to 6-6.5K rpm, and drop the clutch and the car would just rocket start off the line . Pure traction. A week and a bit later, (I probably did around 10 launches :thumbsup: ) and it wont do it anymore. It will just spin the rears up, Not like in RWD mode, ive experienced that, but just feels like i have real shitty tyres now and doesnt get grip, but still tells me that nearly 50 percent tourque is going to the front. Meanwhile the tyres have excelent tread levels at all 4, they are 255 width Potenza RE01-R at all 4.

Any ideeas?

Oh and sometime after hard driving through the mountains the 4wd light would go on. I just turn the car off and back on and it goes back to normal. Also the ATTESA fluid is on max.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318255-launching-r32-gt-r/
Share on other sites

From memory there is a small leak somewhere in your Hicas system that triggered the light.

As for the launches, there could be too much AIR in the clutch system (?) or the clutch packs are worn? Best to take it to a GTR doctor, i used to take mine to Racepace in Bayswater but its totally up to you, go to the Vic section to see their contact details.

....Oh and sometime after hard driving through the mountains the 4wd light would go on....

I think the car is telling you what's up already. take it in and get it checked out.

Edited by istdercollen
My problem is that it feels like my clutch is slipping, lots of revs but not much go (at least not by GTR standards). I'm moving to Bayswater this week so racepace sounds like a plan.

I would say your case is a new clutch.. if you don't change it soon, you will be like me a few years back. I had a clutch die in an S2000 and to avoid towing costs I drove it to the shop 40kms away doing 9000 rpms in 6th gear just to go 90kmh.

I would say your case is a new clutch.. if you don't change it soon, you will be like me a few years back. I had a clutch die in an S2000 and to avoid towing costs I drove it to the shop 40kms away doing 9000 rpms in 6th gear just to go 90kmh.

LMFO :)

Sounds like your clutch packs in the transfer case might be worn, Check all the hydraulic actuation stuff first (bleed attessa, check for leaks and check attessa code on computer in the boot, see if it's flashing). There's a simple test you can do to see how well the transfer is gripping, if your mech knows about GTR's or has a workshop manual for it it's easy to suss. If you end up needing replacement clutch packs for your transfer case let me know- I've just done one and if you want to halve the cost you get quoted I can do a swap job for you.

Fair enough mate , that probably sounds about right. Clutch seems ok but transfer is a bit iffy.. I just went in my mates R32 and it grips much better than mine in the same situations. His 1st and second grip in the rain, I step out in 2nd lol.. And what do you mean by swap job brother??

whats the simple test you can do to see how well the transfer is gripping?

Thought I'd seen it in the workshop manual and it's not there, i'm sure I've seen it somewhere. Don't want to give details yet as if it's not what I think it could be a little unsafe. I'll keep looking.....

  • 4 weeks later...

It's not too bad, just clutch packs are fairly simple, not too much disassembly- but you'd really want to check the shimming on the clutch hub and maybe replace a few bearings while it's out, you be thinking of doing it yourself?

Oh still can't find the factory test - I'll try and devise something that'll give some sort of indication of wear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...