Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

.63 or .82 gt3071 with e85 and plenty of boost should come about as close as your gonna get to your goal.

or if your happy to go crazy with boost (and not worried about turbo life and heat etc) you could try a large rear housed gtx28 of some sort

.63 or .82 gt3071 with e85 and plenty of boost should come about as close as your gonna get to your goal.

or if your happy to go crazy with boost (and not worried about turbo life and heat etc) you could try a large rear housed gtx28 of some sort

I did actually have teh GTX28's in mind for the 1J, cant help but think the turbine side will be too small for the 3L

But I am now looking at those options, Cheers

Fuel economy and E85 dont mix :)

I did 180kms on the weekend and used 40L lol

Ive done 280ks to 40oddL of 98 and the car is standard lol

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I have no updates. But 3.0L related

Has anyone seen either a td06-20g or any other smallish turbo on a twincam 30? I have seen a few gt3076's done

Or if you had a choice the best super responsive circa 300rwkw turbo

I'm thinking I want 20+ psi at 3000 rpm and mega midrange

I'm planning on slapping together a 25/30 for round 2 on the 14th of July and i'll be running a TD06-20g High mount.....

I shall inform you of how it goes!

You can use this one:

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17872&cat=&page=1

But ideally you want one a tiny bit shorter as once you deck the head and block and the belt stretches a bit it gets real close....

Much better off relocating the drivers side tensioner, just wait until you have a belt so you can figure out exactly where to put it as the dimensions in the PDF don't always work.

I used the measurements in the PDF with the above belt and it didnt work, couldn't get the belt on but it was close. Probably just needs to be moved to the right 5-10mm. No set measurements are garunteed to be perfect as theres too many variables.

here is what i do at work;

i grind the head & block

i put the cams in

i put the crank in

i put a thick rag on the deck

i put the head on

i put on all the timing gear

i put bearing blue on bottom of stud,

i then line up tensioner to where its best suited

i then drill and tap the M10x 1.5 thread

  • 1 month later...

Started getting things together to get my dirty thirty project started. Funds are an issue for me so may take longer than u guys lol. But I don't wanna take short cuts so a bit longer without will be worth the wait. Picked up a complete rb30 out of an r31 couple weeks ago for a hundred bucks and a case. Planning on getting an engine stand soon and stripping it down. Then finding a r33 25 head as I want it built out of car to be slotted into daily when complete. So much info! Been reading for the past 2 weeks and printing shit off. Gerg, looking at bringing block, head and other bits and pieces down down to you if ur in Moorebank cause its around the corner from me. A while off though lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...