Subframe Modifications For Your Track Car

[Luke_ENR34]

Arr well, looks cool and different. Got the idea off Zilvia.net.

cheers mate.

[Simon-S14]

yeah i saw the zilvia build up. if i recall he had to chop it down a bit cause it wouldnt refit in his car.

[femno]

I wouldnt call it a complete waste of time.

Pretty sure Full Race added those same members to their S14 too. I guess they know what theyre doing too.

I like the sound of this mod though.

Been contemplating correcting roll centres for a while now. This seems fairly easy.

Thanks for the write-up.

[nsmo30tt]

just to check besides what we've spoken about before is the s14 subframe a direct fit into a r32 cause i heard the mount areas were 1 inch shorter?

[Simon-S14]

no its NOT a direct fit

you need those OFFSET bushes made up.

then it will be a direct fit

[nsmo30tt]

no its NOT a direct fit

you need those OFFSET bushes made up.

then it will be a direct fit

is that only for the diff as we discussed or all mounts?

[Simon-S14]

has nothing to do with the diff.

the mounts where it bolts to the chassis are different. look up iposted the offset style bushes required to make it fit.

its no harder then normal. just need the offset bushes

[nsmo30tt]

ok thanks... hope this isn't too many questions.. but is that for all 6 or just 4.. after this ill go find answers elsewhere cause I'm probably annoying you.. although you are very helpful so thanks

[Simon-S14]

6 mounts??? lol i think your confused buddy

only 4 mounts on subframe to body

[nsmo30tt]

yes sorry lol i know those 4 need to be changed now.. so the horizontal two ones behind the diff are fine.. I'm not too sure what they do but they look like mounts.. I could be assuming things incorrectly

[Simon-S14]

they are diff mounts yes.

[nsmo30tt]

okay so with a s14 back plate i can just use the standard s14 ones obviously. Oh I'm slow at times.. thanks for making things clear

[Simon-S14]

lol! yeah mate

[nsmo30tt]

ok ok I came up with a good question.. a more valid one( I hope). So I have a hicas 32 subframe with a lock bar.. and to me it doesn't look like I could put my lock bar onto a s14 subframe?

[Simon-S14]

S14's don't have hicas in the same way 32's do so lock bar no use

[nsmo30tt]

Should I change anything else then because if I just changed the subframe and left everything else the same wouldnt my back wheels turn whenever they felt like it (sorry not sure what theyre called on the back, knuckles? Hub?)

Edited June 10, 2010 by 30edR32

[32_Dave]

FFS dont put a s14 cradle in a 32. what a waste of time. get a non-hicas s13 (w. r200 4 bolt pattern) subframe buy some riser bushes foam fill the frame and put it in. Will all bolt up and will correct your suspension geomatry, no point going s14.

get a set of rear toe arms to replace that hicas rack.

40edr32, if your in brisbane PM me ill take u under my wing and help u out

Edited June 10, 2010 by 32_Dave

[Dan_J]

hell you can use anything. the whole gain is from raising the subframe and using a stiffer bush. I have a mate who has gont the right tight arsed option and cut the top off the stock nissan bushes til its flush with frame and then welded a flat steel washer to the frame and the steel crush tube. effectivly locking it. then bolting it all back up.

works just as well. but too dodgy for my liking haha

thats just what the japanese guys do for a quick fix, was on a doriten video

[nsmo30tt]

FFS dont put a s14 cradle in a 32. what a waste of time. get a non-hicas s13 (w. r200 4 bolt pattern) subframe buy some riser bushes foam fill the frame and put it in. Will all bolt up and will correct your suspension geomatry, no point going s14.

get a set of rear toe arms to replace that hicas rack.

40edr32, if your in brisbane PM me ill take u under my wing and help u out

Ha thanks Dave, that sounds much easier and quicker.. Unfortunately I'm not in Brisbane, although I wish I was. Could you still explain this too me a bit? Riser bushes as on the LCA's or something else completely? And foam fill the frame.. never even heard of that

[32_Dave]

Ha thanks Dave, that sounds much easier and quicker.. Unfortunately I'm not in Brisbane, although I wish I was. Could you still explain this too me a bit? Riser bushes as on the LCA's or something else completely? And foam fill the frame.. never even heard of that

the riser bush see pic 1 bellow. replaces the factory subframe bush see pic 2 bellow. in doing this you raise the entire subframe approx 0.5-1" higher. how this works is the shape of the riser bush, one end has a shafered edge where the standard washer and bolt go see pic 3 and the other is dead flat making the top lip of the subframe sit flush on the cars rails, see pic 4. Having the subframe sitting higher will correct all the suspension geomatry from being like this \ / on a low car to this _ _ see pic 5 making the suspension work properly how it was designed. Replacing all the factory bushes in the rear end to urethane or even sepherical bearings. (most people just use urethane) Onto foam filling the subframe, you use a marine grade which sets extremely hard, this makes the subframe basically 1 sold piece reducing and movment within the frame itself. It is a 2 part foam that you inject into all the hollow sections of the frame.

Next is correcting the same thing for the front end. You drill your front Lower Control arm (LCA) upwards. See pic 6 Then the only thing left to correct is your tie rods, simply buying new tierod ends can fix this. See pic 7

picture 1:

Picture 2:

Picture 3:

Picture 4:

Picture 5:

Picture 6:

Picture 7: