Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Since you are in Christchurch go see EFI

http://www.nzefi.com/

and ask then about remapping your ecu and a tune. That will solve your problem and see you through til about 300kw.

If you decide to get another ecu you will be able to sell your present one.

There are plenty of people who can tune a PFC but they are no longer made or supported so for an extra few hundred dollars I have bought a Link but that is for another day - the cheaper solution above will do everything you want - remove speed limit, adjust rev limit, fully tunable. And despite what anybody might say a good tuner can make a huge difference to how well your car goes (obviously a bad tuner can rip you off). I believe EFI do a good job but I am sure there are other good tuners in Christchurch.

You won't get any huge increase in power until you get a better turbo.

Nistune, best bang for the buck

When you take into account the cost of another compatible ECU and the work required to install the daughter board, it's not quite as great as what most people think.

A Power FC can be had for $1000 with hand controller. Nistune is around $500 before ECU ($250+) and installation (~$250+).

From what I've seen, it's damn near impossible to find a 33 GTST power FC, let alone a working one for even close to $1000

Hell, if you can find me one for $1000 with hand controller, that has NOTHING wrong with it, I'll buy it now.

When you take into account the cost of another compatible ECU and the work required to install the daughter board, it's not quite as great as what most people think.

A Power FC can be had for $1000 with hand controller. Nistune is around $500 before ECU ($250+) and installation (~$250+).

where are you getting the $250 installation cost of that much from? nistune themselves will solder in the board for $60. so including postage it will cost you about $80 or $90. plenty of workshops will do drive in/drive out tunes for $1000 or less including the cost of the ecu.

From what I've seen, it's damn near impossible to find a 33 GTST power FC, let alone a working one for even close to $1000

Hell, if you can find me one for $1000 with hand controller, that has NOTHING wrong with it, I'll buy it now.

Try looking thru a few pages of for sale adds. They pop up fairly regularly and range in price from $800-$1500 which suggests to me you should be able to get one at around the $1000 mark.

where are you getting the $250 installation cost of that much from? nistune themselves will solder in the board for $60. so including postage it will cost you about $80 or $90. plenty of workshops will do drive in/drive out tunes for $1000 or less including the cost of the ecu.

Hmmm, looking at the Nistune website again it would seem that I have got their pricing a bit confused.

I was under the impression that they were about $300 more than they actually are. That markedly improves their cost effectiveness.

ok i have a price from NZEFI ( which is a good performance shop in Christchurch )

They put a re map board and chip and tune it for $987.50, with a front mount setup fitted $450 and fuel pump fitted for $300 ( walbro 500hp )

He said expect 280hp to 310 hp on about 10 or 11psi.

So for $1737.50 is this good power? because i need a front mount. But what about the fuel pump?

Also would it be cheaper to get a power fc and just get them to tune it on dyno for a few $100 or get a link and have no afm?

All you experts tell me what to do!

The chip and tune looks fine to me.

You don't need a front mount unless you are planning on a new turbo. If you are not and you can find an R34 smic for about $100 and install it yourself that will save you money and get you to over 200kw. If you want a fmic down the track then you may as well do it now and $450 installed sounds OK.

A new fuel pump is a good idea. You can buy one yourself from NZperformance or Redline for about $200 and fit it yourself or let EFI do it.

If you get the EFI chip then when you get the big turbo or RB30 it will still be able to cope with a tune at each stage.

If you are set on a replacement ecu now or later then you better do some reading and make your own mind up. Power FCs are getting harder to find and over here seem to be $1200 - $1500 with a hand controller. then you will need a Z32 afm as well. They are not supported by the factory but there is a heap of information on SAU starting with Paul's FAQ and EFI will be familiar with tuning them.

A brand new Link would be my preference - there is a plug in for your car, the factory is in Christchurch and EFI can tune those as well.

ok i have a price from NZEFI ( which is a good performance shop in Christchurch )

They put a re map board and chip and tune it for $987.50, with a front mount setup fitted $450 and fuel pump fitted for $300 ( walbro 500hp )

He said expect 280hp to 310 hp on about 10 or 11psi.

So for $1737.50 is this good power? because i need a front mount. But what about the fuel pump?

Also would it be cheaper to get a power fc and just get them to tune it on dyno for a few $100 or get a link and have no afm?

All you experts tell me what to do!

Consider a Tomei fuel pump over a Walbro, bit more expensive but worth it in the end. And if u do get one, fit it yourself, very easy to do.

The tune/chip sounds alright and front mount fitted for $450 is pretty good considering the headaches that you get with some of the kits, but as said an R34 SMIC will do you for that power, but if your gonna upgrade eventually may as well do it now, Bit of extra piece of mind knowing your charge airs a little bit cooler with a FMIC

they all sound good thanks guys but heres another option im thinking about.

i can buy a mines for $400

and then i can run around 12psi if i like.

would this be a better option because its so much cheaper? and what results would i get from it?

Try looking thru a few pages of for sale adds. They pop up fairly regularly and range in price from $800-$1500 which suggests to me you should be able to get one at around the $1000 mark.

They also popup on ebay and other random places :blink:

they all sound good thanks guys but heres another option im thinking about.

i can buy a mines for $400

and then i can run around 12psi if i like.

would this be a better option because its so much cheaper? and what results would i get from it?

No. A mines ecu would be just the same as the one you get from EFI except it wouldn't be tuned for your car. And as suggested above Walbro is cheap choice - do your own install and with the money saved buy a better pump.

they all sound good thanks guys but heres another option im thinking about.

i can buy a mines for $400

and then i can run around 12psi if i like.

would this be a better option because its so much cheaper? and what results would i get from it?

Mate dont listen to people that never had MINES ECU.

I had two.

On one set up i ran:

(stock turbo) Exhaust, pod, apexi cooler, 12psi T, splitfire coilpack, Mines ecu, so on 12 psi i made 208KW Safe afr all 12s. If you want dyno graph PM me.

Other set up im running now is:

Hi flow turbo, fuel pump (left over from other set up) 16 psi T, splitfire coilpack, r34 SMIC, exhaust, 3 inch intake+pod, 220kw at wheels safely altho running a lil rich due to aftermarket fuel pump and me blocking off the blow off for flutter, point is, its all safe.

Mate, im telling you, do not listen to people that never tried one, ask people that had one, as they will all recommend one for basic mods such as yours. Dont do what i did: had MINES, went to PFC, wasted 1300 for PFC plus two tunes (3g all up) all to go back to hi flow turbo and MINES ECU.

Anyway, ill stop recommending it, but thats definately my opinion, coming from person that had 2 mines ecu;s.

and i am looking at a mines ecu also but i read they richen it up and make it even worse on gas so that its more safe for your engine.

And to adis, did you literally just buy it and plug it in and you had 200kw? or did it need a tune for your car? Because the mines comes suitable for a r32 and r33 but r33 has vct so it sounds like they would need to be tuned for your car on a rolling dyno or something?

You buy it, and plug it in, thats all. But you need to have basic supporting mods which are: FMIC, POD, EXHAUST, boost 10-12 psi.

You plug it in, and thats IT. But for your own sake and to prove everyone else wrong, take it to a tuner, and just run it for 80 bux to see your ARF, to make sure they are safe, like i did, for your own piece of mind.

And i found my dyno graph of first set up i had.

Here is the original post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...es#entry4565873

Date: 30 Apr 2009

  • Split fire coil pack
  • Turbotech controller set to 12psi
  • Apexi cooler
  • K&N Filter
  • Full exaust
  • Greddy blow off
  • Mines ECU
  • Stock turbo, fuel and everything else.

Dyno graph:

image026.th.jpg

Thanks a lot adis your helping me out a lot here.

For now i think i will get the mines because i can afford that now. And i will just run 12psi and see how she goes.

Because in the end if the mines doesnt suit my car then i can always sell it for the same price and no loss at all really.

If it works mint i will take it for a power run to check that its safe and wait until i can spend the big money.

The auction for it closes tomo so i will keep everyone in touch on how it goes!

Cheers guys!

Thanks a lot adis your helping me out a lot here.

For now i think i will get the mines because i can afford that now. And i will just run 12psi and see how she goes.

Because in the end if the mines doesnt suit my car then i can always sell it for the same price and no loss at all really.

If it works mint i will take it for a power run to check that its safe and wait until i can spend the big money.

The auction for it closes tomo so i will keep everyone in touch on how it goes!

Cheers guys!

If you lived closer, id let you try out mine.

But like you said, get it, try it, you will like it, after you like it, do a power run to see how much you are making and make sure its running safe ARF's and be a happy man like me. Hope your happy in whatever you do. If you end up getting one PM me with your thoughts. Cheers :)

ok guys i have the mines ecu in the car now. these are the problems..

idles at 1500 rpm and bounces around a bit.

stalls every time i come to a stop.

doesnt boost at all until around 4 to 4500 rpm, but shows its running 12psi from about 3000rpm.

splutters around heaps and doesnt feel good at all.

any reasons for this?

the guy said it came off a rb20det engine so would that make a difference?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...