Jump to content
SAU Community

Bypassing Air Flow Sensor

1R0NMAN 33
 Share

Recommended Posts

1R0NMAN 33 Rookie

1R0NMAN 33

Posted
Posted

hey can anyone help me? i need to find out how to bypass or completely get rid of (preferably get rid of) my airflow sensor in my R33.

i am on a tight budget so if there is a cheap way that would be awesome if not it would be great to know, it has to be done.

thanks :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320129-bypassing-air-flow-sensor/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

well you could simply unplug it. just don't plan on having a very good idle or being able to rev the car above about 2500rpm.

other than that, expect to pay a few thousand as said above.

maybe you should tell us why you need to get rid of it so we can give you other suggestions. if you are hitting the airflow cut (rich and retard) then something like a nistune will solve the problem, but will still cost you up to around $1000

1R0NMAN 33 Rookie

1R0NMAN 33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
well you could simply unplug it. just don't plan on having a very good idle or being able to rev the car above about 2500rpm.

other than that, expect to pay a few thousand as said above.

maybe you should tell us why you need to get rid of it so we can give you other suggestions. if you are hitting the airflow cut (rich and retard) then something like a nistune will solve the problem, but will still cost you up to around $1000

thanks and i know it would run like shit if i just unplugged it, thats why i haven't. it is just in the way i can barely get my filter on the

end of it. and i know how to bypass and add in another air filter that doesn't run through the sensor. i know that helps with getting

more air through just have to tweak the sensor a little pretty simple but this leaves me with the problem of space and not being able

to fit my filter in. and while i'm asking is there any real difference in types of after market pod filters. thanks agin for your help(all)

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

^ ye... a bit odd. Just mod the piping. Removing the AFM as i said before, will cost 2k minimum.

Use the factory airbox, a pod is pointless on it's own anyway mate.

Just sell it and put it down as a lesson learned.

1R0NMAN 33 Rookie

1R0NMAN 33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
WTF, just mod the intake pipe so it suits the air flow meter and you pod filter, easy!

true huh damn :3some: i'm an idiot at times i never even thought of that cheers dude. its always the most simple thing that slip the mind when trying to think

1R0NMAN 33 Rookie

1R0NMAN 33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
^ ye... a bit odd. Just mod the piping. Removing the AFM as i said before, will cost 2k minimum.

Use the factory airbox, a pod is pointless on it's own anyway mate.

Just sell it and put it down as a lesson learned.

oh a pod is not the only thing done to my car. and i'm pretty sure i need it

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

Depends what mods you have...

But from what I gather (by reading your sort of post) is your engine is not modified. The stock air box will be more than capable.

Probably best note down your modifications and people can help you better on deciding on the next step.

1R0NMAN 33 Rookie

1R0NMAN 33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Depends what mods you have...

But from what I gather (by reading your sort of post) is your engine is not modified. The stock air box will be more than capable.

Probably best note down your modifications and people can help you better on deciding on the next step.

[/quote

3" 1/2 exhaust turbo back, split fire coil packs, t4 turbo, greddy inter cooler, boost controller, pod filter, so is this a non modified car? whats a modified one like?

im just not fully up there with everything to do with cars thats why i'm asking for help so i can learn.

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

Depends what mods you have...

But from what I gather (by reading your sort of post) is your engine is not modified. The stock air box will be more than capable.

Probably best note down your modifications and people can help you better on deciding on the next step.

3" 1/2 exhaust turbo back, split fire coil packs, t4 turbo, greddy inter cooler, boost controller, pod filter, so is this a non modified car? whats a modified one like?

im just not fully up there with everything to do with cars thats why i'm asking for help so i can learn.

Cool. Stock airbox is up to the task. :) Your current setup isn't too bad.

Your current setup doesn't need map based system - the gains will be very minimal vs cost.

Best spend the money on a dyno tune/re-map - you will be surprised how much more power you get - the car will still be very streetable. IMHO

It will also give less excuse for the boys in blue to dong you as hard - just remember to hide your boost controller :3some:

Changing to a MAP based system (ECU etc.) will probably only benefit if you are going to go for much more power - which will mean larger injectors, cams, list goes on.... which unfortunately means more $ to spend.

Since you are on a budget, a re-map is probably going to be the best bang for buck upgrade with your current setup.

1R0NMAN 33 Rookie

1R0NMAN 33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
^ Yep, factory airbox is still more than adequate and more beneficial if the POD is not enclosed and CAI employed.

Open pod + engine bay = worse than the airbox = worse performance.

i have a custom built air box surrounding my pod filter it is made of sandwich plate aluminium

so its a great insulator, and vents just above in the hood for extra coolness. thanks for the help looks

like i'm just gonna have to get a re map for now then just save save save, because i want more

power i'm greedy thanks guys i appreciate the info

99 GTT Rising Star

99 GTT

Posted
Posted (edited)

I do beleive MINES still uses the stock air box on all his cars and look at the power and performance he makes from his cars. (Good enough for one of the best tuners - Good enough for me)

Pod = waste of time and attract the wrong attention.

Edited by 99 GTT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...