Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Works Bell Paddle Shift


spoolin12
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 year later...

Just fitted the Works Paddle Shifter Kit to my 2005 Stagea Axis. Very happy with the results and loving controlling the manual mode of the auto through the paddles.

However, I must note that the 2005 model Stagea has a differently shaped column surround that does not correspond with any of the templates provided in the kit. While this is not a major concern, what made installation more difficult over earlier model Stageas was the distance between the brackets that hold each paddle is barely wide enough to clear the outside of the column surround. Mounting the brackets as low as possible and equal distance from the left and right edges is key!

Cheers,

Brett

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just fitted the Works Paddle Shifter Kit to my 2005 Stagea Axis. Very happy with the results and loving controlling the manual mode of the auto through the paddles.

However, I must note that the 2005 model Stagea has a differently shaped column surround that does not correspond with any of the templates provided in the kit. While this is not a major concern, what made installation more difficult over earlier model Stageas was the distance between the brackets that hold each paddle is barely wide enough to clear the outside of the column surround. Mounting the brackets as low as possible and equal distance from the left and right edges is key!

Cheers,

Brett

Thanks for this info Chris.......hey you got photo's.....of the installed piece.....and sneak in a couple of the outside of the car as well! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thats really awesome. I'm guessing you should probably put a trans cooler in at the same time though.

Not sure there is any point fitting the trans cooler for the paddle shift as the transmission stops the transfluid going through the cooler when in manual mode... :ermm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Umm... Ok...

Excuse my mechanical naivity... But isnt that when temps are likely to be at their highest, and the gearbox under the most stress?

yup.......but.....when you get the trans hot it shifts harder due to the pressure being up higher......I think it's Nissans cheap way of getting a more sporty feel in the shifts!pinch.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Umm... Ok...

Excuse my mechanical naivity... But isnt that when temps are likely to be at their highest, and the gearbox under the most stress?

i love my switchph34r.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive got a torque converter lock up switch..

it keeps the torque converter unlocked when in manual

things you notice:

about 30kw on the dyno

acceleration is much better

holds gear(obviously)

but does drink the fuel

more importantly why i did it was because it keeps the auto trans cooler flowing

so now i can lock the torque converter and cool it from the "extra stress" i give it. lol

Scott did it for me.. i think me and him are the only people that have done it so far...

best thing ive done

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if your good with a soldering iron it should take no more than 2 minutes and cost bout $5.00

you need to get a resistor.. ill go have a look which wire needs to be cut and what resistor you need abit later...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought Cam proved the cooler was working with the converter locked...

There isnt as much need for it to cool as the demand is lower, the converter sucks over 30kw which is converted into heat. I can only imagine the temps mine gets up to when tuning, more than enough to boil the coolant in the radiator. Generally its locked on the dyno but the lockup clutch wont hold much more than 300kw even when built. (mine is a dominator torque converter)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if your good with a soldering iron it should take no more than 2 minutes and cost bout $5.00

you need to get a resistor.. ill go have a look which wire needs to be cut and what resistor you need abit later...

That would be wicked if you could. :thumbsup:

Keen to set this all up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That would be awesome Scott.

Maybe a stupid question, but what's the difference having it unlocked for everyday driving? Can you still stall it for a launch etc? I guess a switch would be ideal.

Cheers!

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For you, it would slightly increase response and take a little from the top of your power curve. It would also be around 5% less efficient. A switch to turn it off is easy, you just drop the wire through a resistor to ground.

What I have is slightly different as I cant use the lockup clutch anymore in its stock form. When you shift into manual, the converter tries to lock under full load, mine cant due to the huge difference in shaft speeds. I have disconnected the solenoid but I fitted a switch to slam 12v straight onto it, for dyno tuning mainly, as its very hard to tune the low end otherwise. With the switch on it will hold a bit over 300kw before slipping back onto the converter so I have no idea what will happen with the new turbo. Obviously we will have to tune low boost first then add fuel with the map sensor.

If you like driving in D it wont help you much, if anything it will only suck more fuel as it always wants to be in 5th.

(Who am I kidding, what low end. lol.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And yes would be going to tomei Japan for sure as it’s closer to me … 
    • Yeah I heard the same. Might be hard to order one. But then I guess can go to hks or go to a more expensive n1 block with tomei. Guess will jump the hurdle once I get there next upgrade around. I can’t get work done in the states as the lead time will take for ever on top of shipping to Hong Kong. 
    • https://www.platinumracingproducts.com/en-us/products/nissan-rb26-cast-blocks This is the solution I was thinking of. I would stay away from Tomei USA, their quality is a question mark to me. If you want an engine machined in the US contact Club DSPORT: https://clubdsport.com/ Tomei JP is probably fine but I recall they stopped doing pre-assembled short or long blocks. In general it's pretty tough to get any kind of RB26 block at the moment with Nissan so severely backordered.
    • PAR specifically offers stock ratios in their gearset and you could do whatever ratios are physically possible supposedly for no extra cost. I agree 6 ratios is better than 5, the factory 2nd gear is equivalent to the Getrag 2nd gear if you account for the differing final drive ratio though. The Getrag 3rd gear with a 3.916 final drive is equivalent to a 1.6 2nd gear in the FS5R30A. I'm about to swap the transmission out on my car, I'm tempted to send the one I have now out for rebuild with the standard "cross ratio" gearsets out there to see if it really makes such a big difference the next time I pull the transmission.
    • This is what I was looking at next:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/engines/tomei/tomei-rb26-28l-short-block-assemblies-p-45479.html as we can’t bore the cylinders out in hk so better just buy the whole lot in one and install then retune. Everyone saying the weak link are the bolts holding the rods together. I already did valve springs, arp head bolts, hks racing coils, nismo fuel pumps and pressure regulators, injectors etc for the top of the engine. 
×
×
  • Create New...