Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 year later...

Just fitted the Works Paddle Shifter Kit to my 2005 Stagea Axis. Very happy with the results and loving controlling the manual mode of the auto through the paddles.

However, I must note that the 2005 model Stagea has a differently shaped column surround that does not correspond with any of the templates provided in the kit. While this is not a major concern, what made installation more difficult over earlier model Stageas was the distance between the brackets that hold each paddle is barely wide enough to clear the outside of the column surround. Mounting the brackets as low as possible and equal distance from the left and right edges is key!

Cheers,

Brett

Just fitted the Works Paddle Shifter Kit to my 2005 Stagea Axis. Very happy with the results and loving controlling the manual mode of the auto through the paddles.

However, I must note that the 2005 model Stagea has a differently shaped column surround that does not correspond with any of the templates provided in the kit. While this is not a major concern, what made installation more difficult over earlier model Stageas was the distance between the brackets that hold each paddle is barely wide enough to clear the outside of the column surround. Mounting the brackets as low as possible and equal distance from the left and right edges is key!

Cheers,

Brett

Thanks for this info Chris.......hey you got photo's.....of the installed piece.....and sneak in a couple of the outside of the car as well! :)

Thats really awesome. I'm guessing you should probably put a trans cooler in at the same time though.

Not sure there is any point fitting the trans cooler for the paddle shift as the transmission stops the transfluid going through the cooler when in manual mode... :ermm:

Umm... Ok...

Excuse my mechanical naivity... But isnt that when temps are likely to be at their highest, and the gearbox under the most stress?

yup.......but.....when you get the trans hot it shifts harder due to the pressure being up higher......I think it's Nissans cheap way of getting a more sporty feel in the shifts!pinch.gif

ive got a torque converter lock up switch..

it keeps the torque converter unlocked when in manual

things you notice:

about 30kw on the dyno

acceleration is much better

holds gear(obviously)

but does drink the fuel

more importantly why i did it was because it keeps the auto trans cooler flowing

so now i can lock the torque converter and cool it from the "extra stress" i give it. lol

Scott did it for me.. i think me and him are the only people that have done it so far...

best thing ive done

if your good with a soldering iron it should take no more than 2 minutes and cost bout $5.00

you need to get a resistor.. ill go have a look which wire needs to be cut and what resistor you need abit later...

I thought Cam proved the cooler was working with the converter locked...

There isnt as much need for it to cool as the demand is lower, the converter sucks over 30kw which is converted into heat. I can only imagine the temps mine gets up to when tuning, more than enough to boil the coolant in the radiator. Generally its locked on the dyno but the lockup clutch wont hold much more than 300kw even when built. (mine is a dominator torque converter)

if your good with a soldering iron it should take no more than 2 minutes and cost bout $5.00

you need to get a resistor.. ill go have a look which wire needs to be cut and what resistor you need abit later...

That would be wicked if you could. :thumbsup:

Keen to set this all up.

That would be awesome Scott.

Maybe a stupid question, but what's the difference having it unlocked for everyday driving? Can you still stall it for a launch etc? I guess a switch would be ideal.

Cheers!

Chris.

For you, it would slightly increase response and take a little from the top of your power curve. It would also be around 5% less efficient. A switch to turn it off is easy, you just drop the wire through a resistor to ground.

What I have is slightly different as I cant use the lockup clutch anymore in its stock form. When you shift into manual, the converter tries to lock under full load, mine cant due to the huge difference in shaft speeds. I have disconnected the solenoid but I fitted a switch to slam 12v straight onto it, for dyno tuning mainly, as its very hard to tune the low end otherwise. With the switch on it will hold a bit over 300kw before slipping back onto the converter so I have no idea what will happen with the new turbo. Obviously we will have to tune low boost first then add fuel with the map sensor.

If you like driving in D it wont help you much, if anything it will only suck more fuel as it always wants to be in 5th.

(Who am I kidding, what low end. lol.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...