Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

.. hi ppl just chasing an estimate of the value of my skyline i have no idea where to start.. Ill list its detail and hopefully someone has a clue about the price i could ask for it...

1996 r33 skyline.... 125xxxkms Black.. Runs sweet never missed a beat, serviced every 7000 kms.. good oils always

Mods include just Jap FMIC, 17 inch drift 6 rims (white), Pod, Safc 2 (tuned to 10psi with manual boost controller) Apexi BOV, Lowered king springs.

Interior pretty sweet,minor scuff marks nothing major

Stero JVC dvd/ cd player and 4 speakers alpine and clarion

Negatives incude..

*hail damage around 40 dents none are that that really bad just very minnor spots)

*The passanger door was in a minnor accident and has been bogged and repainted however a shit job was done and paint is not clear like the rest of the car .

*There is also a bogged and painted area on the driver side rear bumber around the petrol inlet that has been masked off so minor paint lines are evidents

*1 shock obsorber is leaking

*cracked front lip

Any help would be appreciated Thanks

post-61079-1274589843_thumb.jpg

Thanks for the comments guys it is a really nice car... bar some cosmetic probs... if i could get around 8-9 i would be happy but yeah F***in hail killed that idea i think... Sony Stickers are now removed:)

heres the car after lowering and a clean

the problem is that when ppl are looking at buying a new car..they don't tend to go for the one that loks like shit.. they want it looking great and they'll be excited to drive it..

Unfortunately i think the only interest you will get on your car is those that can't afford price or looking for a cheap car to build up.. Which limits your buyer diversity and lowers the limit.. fix it up or sell it for a steal.. 6-7k would be my starting point..

i recently sold my 32 gtst, it was is perfect condition, and i mean that. it was absolutely MINT. i thought $10k was the minimum i would get for it, but after 2 months of trying to sell it, and i needed to desperately as i was moving over seas, i sold it for $7.5k. i guess what i learnt is that when selling a car thats as niche as a skyline, it doesnt matter what you THINK its worth, its worth what someone will pay for it. and like gimps said, if it doesnt LOOK the goods you will loose interest of alot of people in such a tiny market. in my opinion i think between $6-8k is what your looking at.

one big prob ..if the person who may be interested cannot tidy the car up themselves it would turn them away..if they had to spend big dollars at the beaters to straighten the bod ,,it would be far cheaper to buy a clean straight car ..paint work and beating is that much of a ripoff now..so be prepared for some really stupid offers ..if you can get a mate or friend that nows what they are doing get it done first before you advertise ..first impressions are the sellers ..good luck...shame it had to happen to such a gr8 car

lonleyland is spot on. people want to buy a car, hop in drive away and have nothing to worry about. its like in the for sale section on sau, where countless wankers will advertise their car and talk up how nice it is, and how good condition its in blah blah blah, and then state that it will be sold with NO RWC!? and the reason being is that they 'cant be bothered' or 'dont have the time'. people want peace of mind.

haha f**k that turned into a rant real quick...

have u tried dint doctor bro

just to get all the dints out and then and then a serious hand polish to make it look schmicky

thats what i would try

i think one thing u have to remember is that there are thousands of r33's for sale around the country in far better condition than ur own so u have to try to have a point of difference (which u dont) or be as cleas as f**king possible (which right now u r not) to get rid of it.

or just cut ur losses and sell it for peanuts and start again.

those dent doctors normally charge per dent, so it could add up pretty quickly. i wouldn't be suprised if it ran into the thousands (since there is 40 dents, so even at $20 a dent is going to be $800, but i think they usually charge a hell of a lot more than that).

yeah i was wondering the same thing, but from what i have heard they can charge as much as $200 per dent (and as little as $50) so i think that either way it would probably work out to be an expensive exercise.

plus the fact that there is other issues as well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks heaps Duncan and GTSBoy. I'll get my old man to sit in the driver's seat and turn it on and off while I test with the meter. Or maybe other way round, depending on whether he remembers where his glasses got to
    • This is the GTR fuel pump. Yellow shows 12V, orange shows earth. The ECU provides the earth to activate the fuel pump relay. The ECU side of teh relay will pull low when the ECU activates. This is the RB20 fuel pump. Almost the same, but a little simpler. You can see I indicated (above) where the 12V line goes down to the RB20 diagram on the overall diagram, whch shows both RB26 and RB20. This is where I show it coming in on the RB20 diagram below. You can see that the dropping resistor is handled differently. When the fuel pump control is not providing earth to the pump, the pump earths through the dropping resistor and thus runs at lower voltage (some is wasted over the resistor) and runs slower. I showed that "not 12V and not quite earth" portion of the wiring in a paler orange. The rest of the wiring that I did not colour on that little section below the pump would be orange when the fuel pump coontroller is providing earth. This drop is handled inside the fuel pump controller in the GTR. Regardless, you can see where 12V is supposed to be, where earth is supposed to be. The key on prime is via the ECU providing the pump for only a few seconds the switching off. You should be able to see that happen.
    • Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs.  One trigger pin should be either fully earthed  The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed
    • All this talk about fuel and fancy ECUs, meanwhile my poor old R32 has neither.... When the ignition is turned on, should there be power running o the fuel pump constantly or just for the few seconds it usually takes to prime the pump? About to go have another look at it, have watched some YouTube vids on how to use a  multimeter and looked at some wiring diagrams but really have NFI what I'm looking for because electricity is invisible  
    • Yuh....but weren't all the supertourers, except maybe the Audis, FWD? I don't recall any of the others being AWD.
×
×
  • Create New...