Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a warning. If you have your Airbox open at the front and/or a power duct installed. Close it up in wet weather as a single drop in the right place will fry the AFM. I have had mine just go and read countless other stories. Make sense now I think about it. Would just like to save others potential wasted money.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322192-m35-stagea-afm-fault/
Share on other sites

Shit that sucks.....pretty sure a late model X-trail one will work if your searching. I have to say though I have had my power duct for over nearly three years now and haven't had a problem.

My only problem with the AFM is it is reading up to 4.97% because of the tune!!!!

Edited by Jetwreck

I told you that 9 months ago Craig.:P

I have had the Powah duct for a year with no issue but I can see why it would happen. What filter were you using? I have an oiled k+n, perhaps the oil traps the water better?

At 4.9v you get thrown through the windscreen. :bunny:

lol... tell me about it.

Have had my powerduct on for a while now and have driven through some pretty damn serious downpours (95mm in 3 hours for example).

No issues.

Which filter are you using Matt?

I have to agree with Cam on this one, I've done lots of driving in heavy rain since I put the Power Duct on and have had no issues resulting from this.

The car also sits outside in the heavy rain, no problems starting it or driving it.

As I was commuting over an hour each way to work for several months, 70 - 110km/h in pouring rain and no issues.

Surely this is isolated or caused by something else?

I'm running a K&N panel filter. I've closed my box up until the rain stops. There are guys in the US running Pod filters on there V35 and g35's in winter and going through 3-4 AFM's a year....lol I'm sure the std filter would do a better job at keeping the moisture out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
    • I didn't actually try it at the time but a Launch X431 with the appropriate software licenses/upsell will have the ABS bleed function. The Consult II you can still find some old sets of equipment but they're really, really expensive:   
    • Well I'll start by saying I'm not an engineer. I am going to go with the KiwiCNC ones.  They are made of 7050 alloy have good fillets and radius.  The material alone is in the order of double the strength and fatigue resistance - Those bolts, once torqued correctly place most of the load at the flat face of the mating surface - the 'stretch' you're talking about through torqueing them up would be far more than the extra stretch 'load' placed on them from a steering input or bump. (in my opinion) so I doubt they would flinch.    - but again "not an engineer".      oh and I don't think stitch welding 7050 is a good idea, likely just weaken the material (from what I read)
×
×
  • Create New...