Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can I please just say that they're not "t51's"... They're "T517z"....

It's kinda like saying I'm buying some HKS GT253's for my car :Oops: :( :(

Yeh first time i read...

Anyone gone from GTSS's to T51's ????

I scratched my head and giggled i hope they are at least Kai versions...then it was like, oh yeh you mean T517z :D

I agree with Roy, most of the dead turbos we see have turbine and/or compressor damage. Very few have core damage and most of those are plain bearing cores.

It's a self fullfilling prophecy.............

plain bearings cores need rebuilding more often

so

they are cheaper to rebuild.

  • 3 weeks later...
Yes, translated for those in metric land 278 KW's !... and watch this space, more to come yet !

jezzrrr, my car is currently making almost the same power (273 rwkw) with standard turbos. I reckon there will be more to come as well :P

  • 5 years later...

I have Trust T517z's on my 32 GTR. They are a little laggy but when they come on (around 3800 - 3900 rpm) they are on to stay. A set of cams and cam gears, get it on boost a little earlier and no worries. Most of you may think this a little silly but 342kw on 24psi, at the rear wheels on stock internals I feel is not a bad effort. The only hickup which has just recently happened after about 1 1/2 years of running these turbos is 1 of the air flow meters let go.

Time to upgrade to z32's. For those of you who are interested the upgrades to date are the following:

Power FC

AVCR

HKS Fuel Pump

HKS 680cc Injectors

Turbosmart Fuel Reg

Apexi Pod Filters

Trust T517z's (8cm Housings)

Twin stainless split dumps

Nismo Exhaust

Trust FMC

plus the usual gauges, seats, steering wheel, rims, suspension upgrades etc. Mods to follow in the very near future are Z32 AFM's, Splitfire coil packs, cams and cam gears. Then start saving again for rebuilt motor.

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

So are the t517z below GTSS and 2530s?

Also, do they fit on standard dumps and manifolds?

No T517z are in the middle, depending on housing choice will dictate how far to which side of "middle".

To note they are bush bearing, and I've seen JAGR33's car go from 517's to -5s

Same power, better response all over.

There is a 517 graph on the the "dyno comparo" i posted a few months back.

  • 3 weeks later...

Nismoid, how do I work out which housing the t517zs I'm looking at have?

What do I measure?

Would the 8cm or 10cm be better for a stock internal rb26?

Go the 8cm, less lag. The 10cm would suit a 30 bottom end....

yes but considering T517Z's are $1000 on ebay brand new, it's something to look at $ wise.

iv'e owned stock GTR turbo's and won't voluntarily again.

There is no way your going to get a new trust T517Z kit for $1k....

Nismoid, how do I work out which housing the t517zs I'm looking at have?

What do I measure?

Would the 8cm or 10cm be better for a stock internal rb26?

I have 10cm's... but I'd suggest 8's for street work and/or stock engine.

Blue32 made 427kw with T517z's (8cm2) on PULP and is making over 450kw (actual power not known as the tyres are spinning on the dyno) on E85.

Yeah right...

I nosed over 400rwkw with my 10cm's.... and that was pushing them as hard as they would go. An honest 430rwkw on 8cm's..... hmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...