Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8cms here... worked head stock capacity built 26... 360rwkw @ 20psi... running 21-22psi now not dynoed tho... I'm the T517z on the dyno comparo Ash posted... the Garretts are a much better choice if prices are similar... the Trust turbos are really old truck tech... they hit hard though and will last forever (mine are 8+ yrs old) and cheaper to rebuild should you have to

Hard as they would go with stock head?

Heads not stock, 260 x 9.15 cams and ported and polished.

I have personally seen this car make over 400kw on 3 separate dynos. At the last Time Attack here in SA it was place in the top 3 all day with the exception of the last session. It is making the power.

Edited by D_Stirls
  • 1 year later...

I stuffed a 2530 installing it in my gtr. It took 8 weeks and 1350 to repair. I told them to get f**ked because I was originally quoted up to two weeks and only 400. Went to mtq and got a brand new one for 1350 in two days they also confirmed the cost of repairing as the same. So if anybody thinks they can repair a 2530 for cheaper then that I have a brand new one for sale cheap as f**k just has a f**ked thread on oil feed line hahaha

Is that really all they are capable of with 10cm housings?

Yeah.... it was as hard as they would go on my set up. Stock head (drop in cams), stock exh manifolds, 98 and turns out a questionable exhaust.

I'd take my t517z's over -5's any day.

Only reason I took them off.... I upgraded to bigger twin 'truck' trust turbo's (td06 L2's)...

Garrett sucks..... Trust is awesome!

Awww come on... The little garretts ain't that bad.

Got a graph?

It's a bit rough to say that when Jack did a back to back and the "crappy Garrets" out performed the Trust turbos.

he he he...

The garretts are a pretty good choice....

I ran my T517Z's 7 years ago- they were the best option for me at the time. No graph.

They may out perform on a dyno... but it's hard to argue with 138mph in a full weight r32. havn't seen many -5 cars run those sort of numbers on a stock motor in full trim?

I don't like -5's the same as I don't like 'itard- Apple' products....

So many stories of wayward Gayretts. Have you popped any? I remember at one point you wre looking at grabbing one of Fatz?!?!?

I would say 2-3 out of 5 people I know running Gayretts have had troubles and needed replacing. Both singles and twins.

If you want response go and buy a BB 68 Camaro with screw blower on it! :) Go the Truck turbos. At least when they hit they test the strength of your seat back :)

I have had a few new Garrett's running high boost levels, the main issue with BB cores is they require good clean filtered oil, most of the failures I have seen relate to oil quality issues and oil restrictor blockages.

Bush cores are more resilient to contamination but also require much more oil flow or they will flog out quickly.

So many stories of wayward Gayretts. Have you popped any? I remember at one point you wre looking at grabbing one of Fatz?!?!?

I would say 2-3 out of 5 people I know running Gayretts have had troubles and needed replacing. Both singles and twins.

If you want response go and buy a BB 68 Camaro with screw blower on it! :) Go the Truck turbos. At least when they hit they test the strength of your seat back :)

My issue was that I stripped a thread putting everything back together. My own fault. Silly Pig!

No no, I'm honestly curious.

138 MPH is hard to argue with, I agree!!!

Why don't you like the -5's? Don't make enough grunt?

-5's are like assholes or iPods..... everyone's got them. They're power delivery is a bit soft for me... they do produce boost sooner, but don't seem to produce 'push in the back' torque any sooner or as much.

T517Z's put a smile on my face in '05.... -5's didn't.

I love turbo cars for the rush of torque when your on the boil... I spent years after trying to chase my ass with the 'ultimate response/power' set up. But when I sat back, stripped it all back and reminded myself why I love my car/s.....

So I started building something that would put a smile on MY face and who gives a siht what any body else thinks.

... what I ended up with is a 2.8, twin billet Trust td06, nitrous injected, dog boxed GTR that makes me crap my pants :yes:

J.

-5's are like assholes or iPods..... everyone's got them. They're power delivery is a bit soft for me... they do produce boost sooner, but don't seem to produce 'push in the back' torque any sooner or as much.

T517Z's put a smile on my face in '05.... -5's didn't.

I love turbo cars for the rush of torque when your on the boil... I spent years after trying to chase my ass with the 'ultimate response/power' set up. But when I sat back, stripped it all back and reminded myself why I love my car/s.....

So I started building something that would put a smile on MY face and who gives a siht what any body else thinks.

... what I ended up with is a 2.8, twin billet Trust td06, nitrous injected, dog boxed GTR that makes me crap my pants :yes:

J.

A lot of people have them, no doubt. It's all in the setup though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the passenger door on plus the master cylinder and booster. Loaded up to take it home. At home, the colour changes a lot in the light.
    • Nothing cheap, but I have seen the AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ which is pretty close to what you're asking for. The problem is the hydraulic cylinder mandates that the back of the jack be a certain height and Skylines have fairly deep inset floor jack points. A more certain and cheap option is to get some nominal 2x10 inch lumber boards and have one board be 1.5 feet, the other board 3 feet. Glue it all together with lots of clamps to maintain pressure. Make two of these. The ramp suggested above is a good idea, it takes quite a bit of clutch slip to get over each of the boards. I only need the first ~1.5 inches for my low profile jack on a standard ride height car but a lowered car you want to go up to the full ~3-3.5 inches. Paint it or store indoors if you want it to last.
    • Ok. And Nistune? I read (here too) mainly on Stagea threads that it can by "turn off" with Nistune. But they say they still had the sensor plug in. Next week iam going to the Nistune(and other ECUs) tuner so i can finally make it work. I drove the car home and apart from the cut it drove great. No misfire no smoke no hesitation or rough start...so hoping it is this sensor that is missing  
    • I just stack 2 pieces of 200x50 timber on top of each other. Total length about 900mm, with the top one being a little shorter and both having a 45° angle cut on them to make the front edge a bit of a ramp. Put these in front of each front wheel, drive up on them, throw the trolley jack under. Takes 1 minute. Scissor jacks can eat a bowl of dicks. I never use on under my car unless desperate.
    • Well, yeah. But I just expect everything other than my car to feel like a bucket of shit anyway. I still miss my Alfa 116 so much though. You could run over a 20c piece and tell whether it was heads or tails.
×
×
  • Create New...