Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dyno tune will be a while still when I'm ready to adjust the cam gears.Until then its road tuned

N1GTR.. Technically the only thing new about this is the actuators, and I'm sure if you purchaced -9 from gcg etc. they would put on the same 8.8psi actuator like what I got. Otherwise, same -1 / -9 / Gtss unit.

I think response can be tweaked further with the tune and also with boost control as there is no creep and very minimal spike(1psi) as is right now, so definately some gain to be have there, even if minimal.....and then there are cam gears

Have only been driving it a few days, but it does pull a touch harder on 13psi, But so far I'm satisfied that I have turbs capable of 300rwkw with stock like response.

Aaaaaah my bad!

Here's what I thought you meant;

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/products/turbochargers.html#medium

GT2854R - 471171-9

GT2859R - 707160-9

GT2859R - 780371-1

GT2860R - 707160-5

GT2860R - 707160-7

GT2860R - 739548-9

GT2860RS - 739548-1

GT2860RS - 739548-5

GT2871R - 472560-15

GT2871R - 743347-1

GT2871R - 743347-3

GT2871R - 707160-10

GT2871R - 780371-2

GT2871R - 743347-2

GT2871R - 743347-4

GT2871R - 771847-1

GT2876R - 705330-1

GT2876R - 705330-2

This is the last dyno tune I had, -9's, nismo pump, 555cc injectors, nismo AFM's, cam gears, stock engine.

post-12712-0-13533100-1318426627_thumb.gifpost-12712-0-59905300-1318426635_thumb.gif

Figures in all wheel killerwasps.

Since then I have fitted a different boost controller and the wastgates are now set to open at 16PSI with controller off.

Needs another tune to set boost controller and get rid of the drop in boost pressure. 22PSI tune to follow.

I'll let you guys know....

Aaaaaah my bad!

Here's what I thought you meant;

http://www.turbobyga...ers.html#medium

GT2854R - 471171-9

GT2859R - 707160-9....Gtss

GT2859R - 780371-1....Gtss with act

GT2860R - 707160-5.....2530

GT2860R - 707160-7....R34 N1

GT2860R - 739548-9

GT2860RS - 739548-1

GT2860RS - 739548-5

GT2871R - 472560-15

GT2871R - 743347-1

GT2871R - 743347-3

GT2871R - 707160-10....Gtrs

GT2871R - 780371-2....Gtrs with act

GT2871R - 743347-2

GT2871R - 743347-4

GT2871R - 771847-1

GT2876R - 705330-1

GT2876R - 705330-2

post-42272-0-02044400-1318454661_thumb.png

:thumbsup:

I guess they didn't say anything about injector duty.

I was seeing roughly 90% on a cold night with 22psi peak in the midrange through to 17psi or so at the top end. Rich enough to see black out the back on full boost :whistling:

Stock fuel reg too....

Should be okay, guess I'll find out.

Well since there is NO info on this here I just thought i'd put this up and update as I go along.

The comparision below is results for the -1 turbo which is the -9 that comes with a 8.8psi actuator from Garrett, compared to stock R33 Gtr turbos.

post-42272-0-01856100-1318371152_thumb.png

The top window is the -1/-9 which reaches the same level of boost(13.3psi) about 200-300rpm later than the stocks, and the car drives basically the same as before.

The ONLY thing changed was the boost level was raised only one notch on the controller (profecb2) to get the same level for comparision....start/gain etc was left the same and the pfc tune was untouched.

My boost control kit reads 1psi low for some reason, hence 13.3psi

Ignore the scale on the bottom as this would be different due to the length(secs) of each log

Well with two turns in on the actuators I was able to get it down to stock like response, well on paper at least....To me it feels even better than stock coming into boost

post-42272-0-75110700-1318977532_thumb.png

Top -1/-9, bottom is stock

Is boost creep the only thing to look for with too much preload? I want to shorten them some more :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was that with the cas upside or correct way up?
    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
×
×
  • Create New...