Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oops, sorry, I knew that :S. Dunno why I had 350 in my head. Maybe I was dreaming about e85 again

All good buddy. Had a customer ask for 350kw out of -7's today. I have never actually heard of them making that sort of power. 330 is even up there. Maybe with cams

nah 330 for -9's. :)

300 for -7's

Lol, he's name wasnt michael was it?!

On another note, whinny got a 32 GTR on saturday.

lol not me buddy :P ive already got 330kw aiming for more shortly haha

my last gtr made 296kw @ 19psi with -7's

My mistake :P

Wanna sell me your 3.5" front pipe lol

Cant you get BSA or another local fabricator to fab one? I guess you will need a new cat too, if you want to run one.

I would help if you were down here, I always wanted to make a jig for GTR front pipes but I have never been asked to make one. I guess there are too many brand name pipes getting around.

Just my 2c on this entire -9 vs -5 topic having been in cars with both setups i can safely say -9's will get boring rather quickly. For a car that is driven 1-2x a week i cant see why you wouldnt go the bigger power of the -5's.

All this lag stuff is nonsense too alot of guys in this thread are treating the -5's as if though their some t51r sized monsters, realistically the lag is not too bad at all. Going 60-70kmh in 4th and drop it down to 2nd. The difference in the pull of the -5's is whats sold me.

If your using your GTR for twisties where response is needed every week go the -9, for anything else -5's all day.

Just my 2c on this entire -9 vs -5 topic having been in cars with both setups i can safely say -9's will get boring rather quickly. For a car that is driven 1-2x a week i cant see why you wouldnt go the bigger power of the -5's.

All this lag stuff is nonsense too alot of guys in this thread are treating the -5's as if though their some t51r sized monsters, realistically the lag is not too bad at all. Going 60-70kmh in 4th and drop it down to 2nd. The difference in the pull of the -5's is whats sold me.

If your using your GTR for twisties where response is needed every week go the -9, for anything else -5's all day.

I agree with this

If you are only driving the car on weekends go the -5s I say

As mine is daily driven the -9 was my best option for application

In the end the biggest question you need to ask is what are you going to use the car for?!?

I agree with this

If you are only driving the car on weekends go the -5s I say

As mine is daily driven the -9 was my best option for application

In the end the biggest question you need to ask is what are you going to use the car for?!?

I walk to work and have a daily for the run around stuff.

So this car will be a good weather Weekender ONLY. Also planned a few long trips to melb ect.

Which got me thinking, a smaller turbo such as the -9 would almost always be sitting on boost on the freeway would it not? Same as a -7

So something like a -5 would provide better economy for highway driving as the turbos is not constantly spooling.

Or am i misguided on this one?

Either way this will not be a daily driver, But then again I want good response through the twisties. Which im sure -5s can still provide. Just not as good at the -9s.

nomnomv8- your comment has again swayed me away from the -9’s. But I really haven’t made the comparisons like you having sat in both cars.

Still looking for a -5 set up to take a ride in.

Do you have an engine that will handle the -5's?

or are you going to a have a laggy 350rwks and hope and pray that everytime you hit the throttle bits of engine arent going to fly out the bonnet?

LOL @ engine on boost driving down the highway

does the car do it now? NO!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...